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201 Tariff - Authorizes the President of the United States to take action when a particular product is being imported into the country in such large quantities as to cause injury or threaten serious injury to a domestic industry. This authority can be used even if the import is not priced unfairly.
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24 Hour Rule - Effective December 2, 2002, carriers and/or automated NVOCCs (‘non-vessel operating common carrier’) must submit a cargo declaration 24 hours before cargo is loaded aboard the vessel at a foreign port.
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301 Processing - Process requiring the office of the USTR (U.S. Trade Representative) to prioritize foreign trade barriers and seek their resolution through bilateral consultations.
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807 - A U.S. tariff schedule provision known as "9802" (formerly known as 806/807). It allows the duty-free entry of goods whose final product contains a certain portion of raw material or labor value added, assisting the development of the maquiladora industry and other countries with a NAFTA agreement, such as the Caribbean Basin and Hong Kong.
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Abrasion Resistance - The degree by which a fabric is able to withstand loss of
appearance through surface wear, rubbing, chafing, and
other frictional actions.
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Absorbency - The ability of a fabric to take in moisture. Absorbency is a very important property, which effects many other characteristics such as skin comfort, static build-up, shrinkage, stain removal, water repellency, and wrinkle recovery.
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Acceptance - Broadly speaking, any agreement to purchase goods at a stated price and under specified terms.
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Accumulation - Profits that are not paid out as dividends but are added to the capital base of the corporation.
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Acetate - A manufactured fiber formed by a compound of cellulose, refined from cotton linters and/or the wood pulp of the mulberry trees. This material is then combined with acedic acid and is extruded through a spinneret and then hardened.
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Acid Washed - A process that alters the color of indigo denim fabrics by treating them with chemicals.
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Acrylic - A manufactured fiber derived from polyacrylonitrile. Its major
properties include a soft, wool-like hand, machine washable
and dryable, excellent color retention. Solution-dyed
versions have excellent resistance to sunlight and chlorine
degradation.
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Ad Valorem (According to Value) - A tax imposed on imports by the customs authority of a country. Duties are generally based on the value of the goods (ad valorem duties), some other factor such as weight or quantity (specific duties), or a combination of value and other factors (compound duties).
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Administrative Protective Orders (APO) - Grants counsel for interested parties to any given proceeding -- but not the interested parties themselves -- the right to receive business proprietary information collected by the agency. In exchange for this right to analyze this confidential data, parties' counsel must agree to protect the confidentiality of the proprietary information they receive under the APO and to adhere to the other requirements of the APO.
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Advance Against Documents - A loan made on the security of the documents covering the shipment.
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Advising Bank - A bank, operating in the exporters’ country, which handles the letter of credit for a foreign bank by notifying the export firm that the credit has been opened in its
favor. The advising bank informs the exporter of the conditions of the letter of credit without necessarily bearing responsibility for payment.
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Advisory Capacity - Indicates that a shipper's agent is not empowered to make decisions or adjustments without approval of the group he or she represents.
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African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) - An Act promulgated in the United States that significantly liberalizes trade between the U.S. and 37 designated Sub-Saharan African countries. AGOA builds on existing U.S. trade programs by expanding the (duty-free) benefits previously available only under the Generalized System of Preferences (GSP) program. The Act covers an 8-year period from October 2000 to September 2008.
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Ag Tech - Any type of agriculture technology, including artificial
intelligence, machine learning, drones, and robotics, used to
automate or increase the efficiency, sustainability, and
profitability of farming processes.
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Agent - An individual or firm that serves as the foreign representative of a domestic supplier and seeks sales abroad for the supplier.
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Agreement of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) - ASEAN was formed in 1967 by Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines, Singapore, and Thailand to promote political and economic cooperation and regional stability. It currently consists of ten member nations: Brunei, Laos, Cambodia, Malaysia, Philippines, Thailand, Indonesia, Myanmar, Singapore, and Vietnam. U.S. relations with ASEAN have been excellent since its inception.
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Agreement on Textile and Clothing (ATC) - The ATC is one of the most significant outcomes of the Uruguay Round. It has established safeguard provisions which have proved to be effective both in limiting most safeguard abuses and in carving out a new textiles and clothing regime within the WTO.
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Agronomic data - Reveals the soil conditions, biodiversity, average yield, water
resources, plant populations, and other details about a
concentrated area and its surroundings. This data is used to
track compliance with environmental regulations, predict pests
and crop diseases, and guide spraying decisions.
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Agronomy - The science and technology of crop production. It has
expanded to include research conducted around soil science,
plant genetics and physiology, and meteorology.
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Ahimsa silk - An alternative, non-harmful method of producing silk. Silk is
woven by making use of empty cocoons rather than harvesting
live moth pupae. Cultivated on forest trees, the silk is spun
after the silkworm metamorphoses into a moth and flies away
leaving its cocoon. This type of silk derives its name from the
Hindu, Buddhist and Jain doctrine of peace and non-violence.
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Air Permeability - The porosity of a fabric as estimated by the ease with which
air passes through it. Air permeability measures the warmth
of blankets, the air resistance of parachute cloth, the wind
resistance of sailcloth, etc. as measured on standard testing
equipment.
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Air Waybill - A bill of lading that covers both domestic and international flights transporting goods to a specified destination. This is a non-negotiable instrument of air transport that serves as a receipt for the shipper, indicating that the carrier has accepted the goods listed and obligates it to carry the consignment to the airport of destination according to specified conditions.
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Algaecide - Kills algae.
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Alongside - The side of a ship. Goods to be delivered “alongside” are to be placed on the dock or barge within reach of the transport ship’s tackle so that they can be loaded aboard the ship.
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Alpaca - A natural long, fine hair fiber obtained from the Alpaca sheep, a
domesticated member of the llama family. The fiber is most
commonly used in fabrics for dresses, suits, coats, and
sweaters.
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Alpaca Cloth - Very soft and very light fabric with a silky hand. The fiber is obtained from the Alpaca goat. Alpaca resembles mohair and is often imitated in cheaper versions using wool and rayon blends. It is used mainly for women's spring or fall coats, suits and sportswear.
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Alternative Energy Source - Any energy source, such as wind or solar, other than fossil
fuels such as oil and gas.
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American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition (AMTAC) - This advocacy group’s intention is to preserve and create American manufacturing jobs through the establishment of trade policy and other measures necessary for the U.S. manufacturing sector to stabilize and grow.
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Andean Trade Preference Act (ATPA) - ATPA was signed into law in 1991 to provide the beneficiary countries of Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru duty-free access to the U.S. market for a wide range of products. The Act expired in December 2001.
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Andean Trade Promotion and Drug Eradication Act (ATPDEA) - This act would extend the period in which preferential treatment provided to certain products of countries under the Andean Trade Preference Act (ATPA) is in effect. In addition, the bill would provide preferential treatment under ATPA for additional articles, including certain footwear and petroleum products. Also, it would extend preferential treatment to knit-to-shape apparel articles imported from countries under the Caribbean Basin Economic Recovery Act (CBERA) and the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA).
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Angora - The hair of the Angora goat. Also known as Angora mohair.
Angora may also apply to the fur of the Angora rabbit.
However, according to the U.S. Federal Trade Commission,
any apparel containing Angora rabbit hair must be labeled as
"Angora rabbit hair" on the garment.
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Animal Fibers - The term used to distinguish natural fibers obtained from animals. It includes alpaca, angora, goat hair, camel hair, cashmere, cow hair, fur, guanaco, hog hair, huarizo, llama, mohair, misti, Persian cashmere, rabbit hair, silk, sun, vicuna, worsted, worsted lop.
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Anthropogenic Emissions - Greenhouse gases emitted as a result of burning fossil fuels,
fertilization, industrial processes, deforestation, and other
activities.
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Anti-Bacterial (Anti-Microbial) - A fabric that has been chemically treated or a fiber that is
created by incorporating the anti-bacterial chemical agent
into the fiber formula, making the finished fiber or fabric
resistant to, or inhibiting the growth of micro-organisms.
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Anti-chafing / Anti-friction - A fabric that avoids the irritation of skin caused by repetitive
rubbing of skin to skin contact of multiple body parts.
Chafing is usually contracted in the inner thighs or the inner
gluts.
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Anti-Diversion Clause - Various statements that the U.S. government requires to be displayed on export shipments, and that specify the destinations for which export of the shipment has been authorized.
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Anti-Dumping (AD) - Anti-dumping suits, along with ‘safeguards’ and ‘countervailing measures’, are tools for protecting domestic industries from surges of cheap foreign imports. Although the WTO strives to eliminate all trade barriers, it recognizes that nations require flexibility to adjust to economic shocks as multilateral agreements increasingly liberalize trade. Thus, these measures allow nations to temporarily protect their economies against fluctuations in trading patterns.
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Anti-Static - Can be either a fiber or fabric that does not allow the build-up of static electricity to occur when the fiber or fabric experiences friction or rubbing.
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Antifungal - Inhibits or kills fungi.
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Antimicrobial Fabrics - These fabrics are treated with or made from materials that
resist or kill microorganisms, commonly used in medical
settings and active wear.
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Appearance Rating - The term that applies to the smoothness of fabrics - usually wash and wear or durable press after washing and tumble drying. Industry has adopted standard test methods for rating appearance.
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Aramid - A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a long chain of synthetic polyamide in which at least 85% of the amide linkages are attached directly to two aromatic rings. Aramid fabrics are very strong and are resistant to high temperatures and extreme external forces. Aramid fabrics are used in thermally protective clothing; (i.e. coveralls, jackets, gloves, shirts, pants). U.S. FTC Definition: A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a long-chain synthetic polyamide in that is at least 85% of the amide linkages are attached directly to two aromatic rings.
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Arbitrage - The process of buying foreign exchange, stocks, bonds, and other commodities in one market and immediately selling them in another market at higher prices.
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Asbestos - A mineral with long, thin fibrous crystals. It is a toxic substance known to cause serious illnesses, including malignant mesothelioma, lung cancer, and asbestosis. Because it is soft, pliant and able to withstand heat, it can be woven into fabrics to improve flame-retardant and insulating properties. While its use is banned in many countries, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency still allows many consumer products to contain trace amounts of asbestos.
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Asia Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) - APEC was established in 1989 to further enhance economic growth and prosperity for the region and to strengthen the Asia-Pacific community. Since its inception, APEC has worked to reduce tariffs and other trade barriers across the Asia-Pacific region, creating efficient domestic economies and dramatically increasing exports. It also works to create an environment for the safe and efficient movement of goods, services and people across borders in the region through policy alignment and economic and technical cooperation.
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Asian Dollars - U.S. dollars deposited in Asia and the Pacific Basin.
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Assignment (of Proceeds of a Letter of Credit) - If the bank agrees, the beneficiary assigns all or part of the proceeds to be paid to another party after the required documents have been presented.
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Automated Export System (AES) - A new program of the U.S. Census Bureau’s enforcement activities to audit exporters who are not complying with their export data filing obligations, as part of the Foreign Trade Regulations (FTA).
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Azurite - Azurite is a very popular mineral because of its unparalleled color, a deep blue called "azure", hence its name. Azure is derived from the Arabic word for blue. It is used in jewelry and for dyes as mentioned above. It is also an unimportant ore of copper and closely associated with green malachite. See also Mineral dyes.
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Azurite - This is a very popular mineral because of its unparalleled color,
a deep blue called "azure", hence its name. Azure is derived
from the Arabic word for blue. It is used in jewelry and in
mineral dyes. See also "Mineral Dyes".
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Back Length - The dimension on a garment taken from the center collar attaching seam to the bottom of the garment, or in the case of a coverall, to the top of the waistband.
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Back Waist Length - The dimension on a body, taken from the top of the back
bone at the base of the neck to the waistline.
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Bactericide - Kills bacteria.
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Bacteriostat - Doesn't necessarily mean that it kills bacteria. A stat means
that it may simply be slowing growth or holding the death to
growth rates of bacteria (same for fungal stats) more or less
in equilibrium. Inhibits bacteria growth.
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Balance of Trade - The difference between a country’s total imports and exports. If exports exceed imports, a favorable balance of trade exists; if not, a trade deficit exists.
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Ballistic - A thick woven fabric that is extremely abrasion resistant and tough; has a denier of about 2000, and is used in apparel, packs and gear.
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Ballistic / Slash Resistant - Bulletproof, or the ability for a textile material to stop a bullet
or sharp high velocity projectile from penetrating the
material. The term bullet resistance is often the preferred
term, because few, if any, practical materials provide
complete protection against all types of bullets.
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Bamboo Fabric - A natural textile made from the pulp of bamboo grass, it is considered sustainable, because the bamboo plant grows quickly and does not require the use of herbicides and pesticides to thrive. However, bamboo fiber is produced through the cellulosic process. Bamboo fabric retains many of the same qualities it has as a plant, including excellent wicking ability that pulls moisture away from the skin. It also retains antibacterial qualities, reducing bacteria that often thrives on clothing, which causes unpleasant odors.
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Band (Continuous/Grown-on) - Pant panels that extend to the top of the pant and are folded over without an outside band. A separate inside band lining is sewn through the pant and has an interlining.
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Band (Pasted-on/Folder-set) - A separate band sewn on the pant with stitching that shows on the outside at the top and bottom.
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Band (Rocap) - A separate band of body fabric sewn on and turned down so the attaching seam is not visible. Inside the band is a separate lining---made from pcketing fabric---and interlining.
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Barathea - Closely woven fabric with characteristic pebbly weave. Usually silk or rayon or blends with other fibers. Used for neckwear, dress goods, lightweight suitings.
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Barré - An imperfection, characterized by a ridge or mark running in
the crosswise or lengthwise directions of the fabric. Barrés
can be caused by tension variations in the knitting process,
poor quality yarns, problems during the finishing process.
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Bartack - To reinforce a seam with a bar of stitches that provides a more durable seam end. (Commonly used at points of strain.)
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Barter - Trade in which merchandise is exchanged directly for other merchandise without use of money. Barter is an important means of trade with countries using currency that is not readily convertible.
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Base Layer - The apparel in contact with your skin. The purpose of the
base layer is to keep you warm/cool and dry.
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Basket Weave - A variation of the plain weave construction, formed by treating two or more warp yarns and/or two or more filling yarns as one unit in the weaving process. Yarns in a basket weave are laid into the woven construction flat, and maintain a parallel relationship. Both balanced and unbalanced basket weave fabrics can be produced. Examples of basket weave construction includes monk cloth and oxford cloth.
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Bast fiber - A natural fiber collected from the inner bark surrounding the stem of certain dicotyledonic plants. Most bast fibers are obtained from herbs cultivated in agriculture, including flax, Jute, hemp and ramie, but can include wild plants as well. Fibers typically have higher tensil strength than others kinds and are therefore used for textiles like ropes, yarn, paper, composite materials and burlap. While labor intensive, its production is considered more eco-friendly than the production of artificial fibers which are petroleum based.
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Batch Cure - A method of post curing durable press garments in which one group of garments at a time is placed in the curing ovens.
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Batiste - A medium-weight, plain weave fabric, usually made of cotton or cotton blends. End-uses include blouses and dresses.
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Battenberg - Coarse form of renaissance lace either hand or machine made - from linen braid or tape and linen thread, assembled together to form various designs.
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Beading - Variety of insertion laces or embroideries having rows of holes through which ribbon is laced.
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Bedford Cord - Strong ribbed weave fabric with raised lines or cords produced by warp stuffing threads. May be wool, silk, cotton, rayon or combination fibers. Warp pique is a lighter weight. Bedford cord fabric used for dress goods, upholstery and work clothes. First made in America in New Bedford, Massachusetts, hence its name.
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Beetling - A mechanical treatment that uses beetlers or fallers to give fabric surfaces a flattened appearance. The spaces between warp and filling are covered up and tend to produce a high gloss to the material.
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Beeze - Piping or cording formed at lower and inside pocket welts.
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Beneficiary - The person in whose favor a letter of credit is issued or a draft is drawn.
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Bengaline - A sturdy warp-faced fabric with pronounced crosswise ribs formed by bulky, coarse, plied yarns or rubber thread. Filling is not discernible on back or face of goods. Originating in Bengal, India, it is used mainly in coatings, mourning ensembles, and women's headwear. When cut to ribbon widths, it is called grosgrain.
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Besom - An edging or reinforcement around a pocket opening.
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Bi-ply Knitting - See Plaited Fabric
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Bicomponent Fiber - Manufactured fiber made of continuous filaments, and made
of two related components, each with different degrees of
shrinkage. The result is a crimping of the filament, which
makes the fiber stretchable.
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Bilateral Investment Treaty (BIT) - An agreement establishing the terms and conditions for private investment by nationals and companies of one state in the state of the other. This type of investment is called Foreign Direct Investment (FDI).
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Bill of Exchange - An unconditional order in writing from one person (the drawer) to another (the drawee), directing the drawee to pay a specified amount to a named drawer at a fixed or determinable future date.
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Bill of Lading - A document that establishes the terms of a contract between a shipper and a transportation company under which freight is to be moved between specified points for a specified charge. Usually prepared by the shipper on forms issued by the carrier, it serves as a document of title, a contract of carriage, and a receipt for goods. Also see Air waybill, Inland Bill of Lading, Ocean Bill of Lading, and Through Bill of Lading.
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Billard Cloth - The highest grade of material made from the best of stock - Saxony, Silesia, or Australia merino wool. Two up and one down twill weave is used. Cloth must be even and smooth for its use as covering for billiard tables.
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Bio-based Polymers or Biopolymers - Bio-based Polymers (Biopolymers) are natural polymers
produced by the cells of living organisms. Like other polymers,
biopolymers consist of monomeric units that are covalently
bonded in chains to form larger molecules. These polymers are
used in the production of man-made/synthetic textile fibers
and plastics.
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Bio-PP - This polymer is the bio-based counterpart of polypropylene
(PP).
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Biobased Materials - A bio-based material are materials intentionally made from
substances derived from living organisms. These materials are
sometimes referred to as biomaterials, but this word also has
another meaning. Strictly the definition could include many
common materials such as wood and leather, but it typically
refers to modern materials that have undergone more
extensive processing. Unprocessed materials may be called
biotic material. Bio-based materials or biomaterials fall under
the broader category of bioproducts or bio-based products
which includes materials, chemicals and energy derived from
renewable biological resources.
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Biodegradable - The ability of a material to break down through interaction with
bacteria and fungi. It’s important to recognize that not all
materials break down at the same speed or in the same way.
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Biological Agriculture Systems in Cotton (BASIC) - A program developed by the Sustainable Cotton Project to
help cotton growers in California develop a working knowledge
of chemical reduction techniques that can be successfully and
economically applied. BASIC offers strategies to save the
grower money by reducing the need for insecticides, miticides,
chemical fertilizers and water.
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Biomimicry - The science of evaluating how plants and
animals survive in their natural habitats, and
applying a similar process to the design of
functional apparel.
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Birdseye - Cotton or linen cloth woven on a dobby loom, characterized with a small geometric pattern that has a center dot resembling a bird's eye. Also, a cotton diaper cloth made in a birdseye weave.
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Bleach - A chemical substance which whitens fabrics. Common bleaches include chlorine, peroxide, and reducing agents such as sulphites. Bleaching is used to remove natural and other types of impurities and blemishes from fabrics prior to dyeing and finishing.
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Bleaching - A process of whitening fibers, yarns, or fabrics by removing the natural and artificial impurities to obtain clear whites for finished fabric, or in preparation for dyeing and finishing. The materials may be treated with chemicals or exposed to sun, air, and moisture.
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Bleeding - The running of color from wet dyed material onto a material next to it, or the running of colors together. Sometimes the property of bleeding is considered an asset as in bleeding Indian madras.
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Blends - Combining of two or more types of staple fibers in one yarn to achieve color mixtures such as heather, unusual dyeing variations, or better performance characteristics. Blends of natural and man-made fibers are more important today than ever before and their number is virtually limitless.
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Bodymapping - The strategic placement of component materials in garment design and construction to provide the best possible movement and balance to enhance stamina or reduce fatigue for the wearer
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Bonded Warehouse - A warehouse authorized by customs authorities for storage of goods on which payment of duties is deferred until the goods are removed.
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Bonding - The technique of permanently joining together two fabrics - usually a face fabric and a lining fabric of tricot - into one package. Special adhesives, binders, or thin slices of foam may be used as the marrying agent. Fabrics can also be bonded to ultra-thin slices of foam or other materials on the cutting tables, and make possible easier handling of fragile cloths such as delicate laces, sheer materials, or lightweight knits
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Bonding - A process for adhesive laminating of two or more fabrics or fabric and a layer of plastic by means of a bonding agent (adhesives, plastics or cohesion), or ultrasonic procedure. Bonded fabrics are commonly used in outerwear.
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Booking - An arrangement with a steamship company for the acceptance and carriage of freight.
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Boston College Center for Corporate Citizenship - A membership-based research organization founded in 1985. They are involved in helping businesses leverage their social, economic, and human assets to ensure success and sustainable policies. Most recently, they collaborated with the Reputation Institute in ranking the U.S.’s top 50 companies.
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Boston College Center for Corporate Citizenship - A membership-based research organization founded in 1985. They are involved in helping businesses leverage their social, economic, and human assets to ensure success and sustainable poliicies. Most recently, they collaborated with the Reputation Institute in ranking the U.S.'s top 50 companies.
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Boucle - Knitted or woven fabric with characteristic looped or knitted surface that often resembles a spongy effect. The term also applies to a variety of looped, curled or slubbed yarns. In French, boucle means "buckled" or "ringed".
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Braid - Sometimes called passementerie or spaghetti by dress manufacturers who use it for trimming or binding. Usually refers to woven or plaited flat, round, or tubular narrow fabrics.
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Brazilwood - A Brazilian timber tree that has dense, orange-red heartwood. It is the premier wood used for making bows for string instruments from the violin family. The wood also yields a red dye called brazilin. See also Natural dyes.
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Brazilwood - A Brazilian timber tree that has dense, orange-red heartwood.
It is the premier wood used for making bows for string
instruments for the violin family. The wood also yields a
natural red dye called brazilin. See also "Natural Dyes".
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Break - Point on the front edge of the garment at which the roll of the lapel begins. Usually at the same point as the lower end of the bridle.
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Breathability - The movement of water or water vapor from one side of the
fabric to the other, caused by capillary action, wicking,
chemical, or electrostatic action. Also known as moisture
transport.
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Broad Spectrum Antimicrobial - An antimicrobial that effectively controls or kills at least 3 of the basic microorganism groups. This term is important to help give a specific encompassing term to technologies that offer protection from the gamut of microorganisms, without the sometimes vague nature of the term antimicrobial, which could mean kills just one type or kills many types.
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Broadcloth - Originally a silk shirting fabric so named because it was woven in widths exceeding the usual 29". Today, broadcloth refers to a tightly woven, lustrous cotton or polyester/cotton blend fabric in a plain weave with a crosswise rib. It resembles poplin, but the rib is finer, and broadcloth always has more crosswise yarns (picks) than poplin.
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Brocade - A heavy, exquisite jacquard type fabric with an all-over raised pattern or floral design. Common end-uses include such formal applications as upholstery, draperies, and
eveningwear.
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Broker of Trade - One that acts as an agent for others, as in negotiating contracts, purchases, or trade sales in return for a fee or commission.
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Brushing - A finishing process for knit or woven fabrics in which brushes or other abrading devices are used on a loosely constructed fabric to permit the fibers in the yarns to be raised to create a nap on fabrics or create a novelty surface texture.
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Buckram - Ply yarn scrim fabric with a stiff finish for use as apparel interlining or interfacing. Also used in millinery because it can be easily shaped by moistening.
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Bulking - A technique of altering yarns to make them fluff, curl or crimp up to give them a bulked appearance.
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Bunting - Can be either a cotton or wool fabric, woven in a plain open
weave, similar to cheesecloth, and dyed in the piece. Cotton
bunting is often woven with plied yarns. Wool bunting is
woven with worsted worsted yarns, using strong, wiry wool.
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Burlap - Coarse, canvas-like fabric usually made of jute, but can be made of hemp or cotton. Sometimes called gunny. Used primarily for bale coverings, sacks and bags. Also used in furniture, drapery, wall coverings, and clothing.
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Burn-out - A brocade-like pattern effect created on the fabric through the application of a chemical, instead of color, during the burn-out printing process. (Sulfuric acid, mixed into a colorless print paste, is the most common chemical used.) Many simulated eyelet effects can be created using this method. In these instances, the chemical destroys the fiber and creates a hole in the fabric in a specific design, where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric. The fabric is then over-printed with a simulated embroidery stitch to create the eyelet effect. However, burn-out effects can also be created on velvets made of blended fibers, in which the ground fabric is of one fiber like a polyester, and the pile may be of a cellulosic fiber like rayon or acetate. In this case, when the chemical is printed in a certain pattern, it destroys the pile in those areas where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric, but leave the ground fabric unharmed.
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Business for Innovative Climate and Energy Policy (BICEP) - A project launched in November 2008 by the sustainability organization, Ceres. BICEP offers an arena for business involvement to advance climate and energy policies created to counter the far-reaching risks and challenges posed by global climate change. BICEP members firmly believe that a vibrant economy requires the certainty derived from effective and meaningful climate change regulation, and ensures public investment in renewable technologies and environmentally sustainable jobs. BICEP members incldue Nike, Levi Strauss & Co., Timberland, Sun Microsystems, and Starbucks.
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Butcher Linen - Coarse homespun linen once used for aprons for French butchers. Often imitated today in many man-made fiber fabrics that simulate real linen.
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Buttonhole (eyelet) - Formed by a contoured patch of zig-zag stitching, followed by a cut---a portion of which is circular. Eyelet buttonholes are usually used on heavy fabrics and/or with large buttons. A gimp or cord is usually contained within the stitches to provide a reinforcement along the edge of the hole.
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Buttonhole (straight) - Formed by two pairs of straight, parallel rows of zigzag stitching, followed by a single, straight knife cut. Each end of the row of stitching is secured by a bartack.
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Buttons - Specified by design, size, color, and type---such as brass, melamine, or pearl, buttons are either shanked (attached by passing threads through the shank's eye) or holed (attached by passing threads through the button's holes).
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Buying Agent - An agent who purchases goods in his or her own country on behalf of foreign importers such as government agencies and large private concerns.
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Byrd Amendment - Directs the US government to distribute the collected anti-dumping and anti-subsidy duties to the US companies that brought the cases in the first place. Offset payments are made to cover certain expenses (such as investment in manufacturing facilities and acquisition of technology) incurred after the imposition of the anti-dumping and anti-subsidy measures for the production of the product subject to the measures. (Also known as the Continued Dumping and Subsidy Offset Act of 28 October 2000).
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Cable Twist - A cord, rope, or twine construction in which each successive twist is in the opposite direction to the preceding twist. This type of twist is defined as S-Z-S or Z-S-Z.
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Cairns Group - Established in 1986 in Cairns, Australia. The group’s ministers formed the alliance to ensure that agricultural trade issues would be given a high priority in the Multilateral Trade Negotiations.
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Calendering - A process of passing cloths between one or more rollers (or calenders), usually under carefully controlled heat and pressure, to produce a variety of surface effects or textures in a fabric such as high luster, glazing, embossing, and moiré.
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Calico - One of the oldest basic cotton fabrics on the market that traces its origin to Calcutta, India. Usually a plain, closely woven inexpensive cloth made in solid colors on a white or contrasting background. Often one, two, or three colors are seen on the face of the goods which are usually discharge or resist printed, frequently in a small floral pattern. Used mainly for aprons, dresses, crazy quilts, sportswear. Often interchangeable with percale - which is 80-square cotton.
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Calvary Twill - A rugged 63 degree twill weave usually made from wool or wool blend yarns, and characterized by a pronounced raised cord. Also called elastique weave.
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Cambric - Soft, white, closely woven cotton fabric calendered to achieve a high glaze. Used mainly for pocket linings, underwear, aprons, shirts, and handkerchiefs. Originally made in Cambrai, France, of linen and used for church embroidery and table linen.
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Camel Hair - Wool-like underhair of the Bactrian camel, a two-humped pack-carrying species that is lustrous and extremely soft. Because it is expensive, often used in blends with wool for coats, suits, sweaters, blankets, and oriental rugs. Natural colors range from light tan to brownish black. Classified as wool under the Wool Products Labeling Act.
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Canada Free Trade Agreement (CFTA) - Implemented in January 1989 to eliminate all tariffs on U.S. and Canadian goods by January 1998 and reduce or eliminate many non-tariff barriers.
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Candlewick Fabric - Unbleached muslin bed sheeting, sometimes called Kraft muslin, used as a base fabric on which a chenille effect is formed by application of candlewick (heavy-plied yarns) loops which are then cut to give the fuzzy effect and cut-yarn appearance of the true chenille yarn.
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Canton Flannel - Heavy, warm cotton material that is strong and absorbent, with a twilled surface and long soft nap on the back. Named for Canton, China, where it was first produced. Used mainly for interlinings, and sleeping garments where warmth is so desirable.
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Canvas - Cotton, linen, or synthetic fabric made with a basic plain weave in heavy and firm weight yarns for industrial or heavy duty purposes. Also referred to as "duck", although the term "canvas" usually relates to the heavier, coarser constructions.
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Cap and Trade - A system through which a central body sets a cap on the amount of a pollutant that can be emitted. Abiding companies or nations therefore have allowances (credits) representing the right to emit a certain amount up to the predetermined cap. If a company exceeds their allowance, they must purchase credits from companies emitting less; this is referred to as a trade. See also Emissions Trading.
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Cap and Trade - A system through which a central body sets a cap on the amount of pollutants that can be emitted. Abiding companies or nations therefore have allowances (credits) representing the right to emit a certain amount up to the predetermined cap. If a company exceeds their allowance, they must purchase credits from companies emitting less; this is referred to as a trade. See also "Emissions Trading".
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Capillary Action - A process by which liquids are drawn through the fabric and into pores found between fibers and yarns.
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Carbon Capture & Storage - The process of capturing and storing carbon emissions so they
do not enter the atmosphere and contribute to climate change.
Carbon capture involves taking emissions from industrial
processes (ex: manufacturing steel), transporting pollutants
from where they were produced, and storing them
underground. Carbon capture is one method companies can
use to reduce their carbon footprint.
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Carbon Credit - A carbon credit is a tradeable certificate or permit that enables
the holder to emit a certain amount of carbon dioxide or other
greenhouse gases. One carbon credit currently permits the
emission of one ton of carbon dioxide or its greenhouse gas
equivalent. Supporters of the carbon credit system maintain
that it leads to measurable emissions, and eventual reductions
of greenhouse gases from certified projects. Once purchased
the credit is retired and cannot be used again. Each has a
serial number and can be tracked through publicly available
emission registries.
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Carbon Dioxide (CO2) - Carbon dioxide (CO2) is a colorless greenhouse gas that
comes from the extraction and burning of fossil fuels, such as
oil, coal, and natural gas, and from natural events such as
volcanic eruptions. Carbon dioxide in the atmosphere heats up
the planet, triggering climate change. According to NASA,
human activities have pushed the atmosphere's carbon dioxide
content up by 50% in less than 200 years.
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Carbon Emissions Trading - It is a method by which countries can meet their obligations under the Kyoto Protocol to reduce carbon emissions and reduce global warming; specifically for the emission of carbon dioxide, which currently makes up the bulk of emissions trading.
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Carbon Emmissions Trading - It is a method by which countries can meet their obligations under the Kyoto Protocol to reduce carbon emissions and reduce global warming; specifically for the emission of carbon dioxide, which currently makes up the bulk of emissions trading.
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Carbon footprint - A measure of the impact that human activities have on the environment in terms of the amount of greenhouse gases produced, measured in units of carbon dioxide.
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Carbon Footprint - A measure of the impact that human activities have on the
environment in terms of the amount of greenhouse gasses
produced directly or indirectly, measured in units of carbon
dioxide.
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Carbon Intensity - Carbon Intensity refers to the volume of carbon emissions per
unit of gross domestic product (GDP). Decreasing carbon
intensity means that energy use is more efficient.
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Carbon neutral - A product or process that does not add more carbon dioxide to the atmosphere, over its life cycle.
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Carbon Neutrality - Carbon neutrality refers to the mitigation of greenhouse gases.
This can be achieved by balancing new emissions with gas
removal, such as through carbon offsetting, or by eliminating
emissions altogether.
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Carbon Offsetting - Carbon offsetting refers to purchasing carbon credits and
retiring them to compensate for greenhouse gas emissions.
There are a large number of offset projects across the world
that individuals and companies can invest in by purchasing
carbon credits. These include maintaining solar and hydro
projects to decrease reliance on fossil fuels, reforestation to
industrial gas destruction.
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Carbon Tax - A carbon tax is a tax levied in the burning of fossil fuels,
primarily coal, oil, gasoline, and natural gas. Carbon taxes are
designed to reduce the usage of fossil fuels. It is in essence a
Pigouvian tax as it is a tax that is placed on activities that
create a negative impact.
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Carbon Trade - The buying and selling of carbon credits.
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Cardigan - 1. A form of rib knitting stitch modified for tucking on one or both sets of needles. 2. A sweater style usually referring to a three-button coat sweater with either a "V" or a round neck.
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Carding - A process of opening and cleaning textile fibers - usually cotton - which separates fibers from each other, lays them parallel, forms them into a thin web, and then condenses them into a single continuous untwisted strand or bundle of fibers called a "sliver".
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Caribbean Basin Economic Recovery Act (CBERA) - A trade act that was made into law by public law 106-200 (CBTPA) which amends section 213(b) of the Caribbean Basin Economic Recovery Act 19 U.S.C. 2703 (b), and provides that certain preferential tariff treatment may be provided to eligible articles that are the product of any country that the President designates as a CBTPA beneficiary country. Furthermore, any U.S. citizen that travels in the Caribbean Basin may bring back $600.00 duty free.
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Caribbean Basin Initiative (CBI) - A bill promoting the growth of free enterprise and economic opportunity in the Caribbean Bain region, in order to increase trade between the region and the United States and to encourage the adoption of trade policies for participation in the Free Trade Area of the Americas.
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Caribbean Basin Trade Partnership Act (CBTPA) - The creation and enactment of this legislation planned to strengthen U.S. ties with Caribbean Basin trading partners. The CBTPA will expand previous CBI programs by extending preferential tariff treatment to textile and apparel products assembled from U.S. fabric that were excluded
from the program. The purpose is to encourage additional U.S. exports of cotton yarn
and U.S. investment in the region, and improve the competitive position of the U.S. textile industry.
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Carnet - A customs document permitting the holder to carry or send merchandise temporarily into certain foreign countries (for display, demonstration, or similar purposes) without paying duties or posting bonds.
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Carriage Paid To (CPT) and Carriage and Insurance Paid To (CIP) - Pricing terms indicating that carriage, or carriage and insurance, are paid to the named place of destination. They apply in place of CFR and CIF, respectively, for shipment by modes other than water.
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Cash Against Documents (CAD) - Payment for goods in which a commission house or other intermediary transfers title documents to the buyer upon payment in cash.
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Cash In Advance (CIA) - Payment for goods in which the buyer pays when ordering and in which the transaction is binding on both parties.
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Cash With Order (CWO) - Payment for goods in which the buyer and the second party conduct a binding transaction.
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Cashmere - A luxury fiber obtained from the soft fleecy undergrowth of the Kashmir goat of Tibet, Mongolia, China, Iran, Iraq, and India. Most commonly used in sweaters, shawls, suits, coats, and dresses.
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Catechu - An extract of any of several species of Acacia (a type of shrubs and trees) produced by boiling the wood in water and evaporating the resulting brew. It occurs in a deep brown to black color. See also Natural dyes.
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Cellulose - A white naturally occurring carbohydrate polymer found in organic woody substances of most vegetation. It is the basic raw material needed for production of rayon and acetate fibers. About 96 percent of cotton is cellulose. Man-made fibers based on petrochemical raw materials - such as nylon, polyester, acrylics, etc. - are called non-cellulosics.
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Cellulose - A common material of plant cell walls that naturally occurs in cotton fiber, and found in all plant material, including wood, leaves, and stalks. It is a major constituent of paper and cardboard and of textiles made from cotton, linen, other plant fibers. Acetate, lyocell and rayon are also considered cellulosic fibers because their components a made from part natural cellulose and part chemical products.
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Central American Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA) - The United States has agreed to establish a free trade arrangement known as CAFTA, with the countries of Nicaragua, El Salvador, Honduras, the Dominican Republic, and Guatemala. The agreement would, among other things, provide U.S. duty and quota free treatment for textile and apparel items produced in Central America.
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Centralized Value-Added Tax (CENVAT) - Introduced in 2003 to cover the entire textile supply chain, the tax brought the unorganized sector into the tax net.
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Ceres - A national network of investors, environmental organizations and other public interest groups that works with companies and investors to address sustainability challenges such as global climate change. Its mission is to integrate sustainability into capital markets for the health of the planet and its people.
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Ceres - A national network of investors, environmental organizations and other public interest groups that works with companies and investors to address sustainability challenges such as global climate change. Its mission is to integrate sustainability into capital market for the health of the planet and its people.
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Certificate of Inspection - A document certifying that merchandise, including perishable goods, was in good condition immediately prior to its shipment.
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Certificate of Manufacture - A statement (often notarized) in which a producer of goods certifies that manufacture has been completed and that the goods are now at the disposal of the buyer.
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Certificate of Origin - A document, required by certain foreign countries for tariff purposes, certifying the country of origin of specified goods.
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Challis - One of the softest fabrics made. Named from the American Indian term "shalee", meaning soft. A lightweight, soft plain weave fabric with a slightly brushed surface. The fabric is often printed, usually in a floral pattern. Challis is most often seen in fabrics made of cotton, wool, or rayon.
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Chamber of Importers for the Republic of Argentina (CIRA) - (also known as Camara de Importadores de la Republica Argentina). CIRA, as a managerial union entity, takes steps to make the importers conditions as effective as possible with the support of public authorities such as the Department of State and Foreign Trade; Treasury Department, Ministry of Public Works and Utilities; Department of Industry, Commerce and Mining; Customs General Administration, and its dependant agencies.
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Chambray - Popular variety of cotton fabric in relatively square count 80 by 76 that combines colored warp and white filling yarns in plain weave. Name derived from Cambrai, France, where it was first made.
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Chantilly Lace - Bobbin lace with fine six-sided mesh grounds with pattern outlined in heavy thread.
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Charter Party - A written contract, usually on special form, between the owner of a vessel and a “charterer” who rents use of the vessel or a part of its freight space. The contract generally includes the freight rates and the ports involved in the transportation.
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Cheesecloth - Plain woven, soft, fragile, low-count cotton fabric similar to tobacco cloth and also known as gauze.
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Chemical Resistant - The strength of a fabric or material to protect against
chemical attack or a solvent reaction.
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Chenille - 1. A specialty yarn, characterized by a pile protruding on all sides, resembling a caterpillar. The yarn is produced by first weaving a fabric with a cotton or linen warp and a silk, wool, rayon, or cotton filling. The warp yarns are taped in groups of tightly woven filling yarns, which have been beaten in very closely. After weaving, the fabric is cut into strips between the yarn groups. Each cutting produces a continuous chenille yarn, which is then twisted, creating the chenille yarn, and giving the pile appearance on all sides of the yarn. The chenille yarn is used mainly for decorative fabrics, embroidery, tassels, and rugs. 2. A fabric woven from the chenille yarn.
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Chevron - Term applies to herringbone weaves or prints in zigzag stripes.
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Chiffon - A plain woven lightweight, extremely sheer, airy, and soft silk fabric, containing highly twisted filament yarns. The term "chiffon" implies thinness, diaphanous, or gauze-like structure and softness. Originally made of silk, but today may be found in a wide variety of other manufactured fibers. The fabric, used mainly in evening dresses and scarves.
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Chinchilla Cloth - A heavy conventional twill-weave coating with a spongy napped surface that is rolled into little tufts or nubs to resenble chinchilla fur. Usually made from wool or wool/cotton blends in coating weights.
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Chino - Classic all-cotton "Army twill" fabric made of combed two-ply yarns. Usually vat dyed, mercerized, and given a compressive shrinkage finish. Used traditionally for army uniforms, chino is now finding popularity sportswear and work clothes.
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Chintz - Glazed plain weave cotton fabric with a tioghtly spun fine warp and a coarser slack twist filling, often printed with brightly colored flowers or stripes. Named from Hindu word meaning spotted. Several types of glazes are used in the finishing process. Some glazes wash out in laundering, but others such as resin finishes are permanent. Unglazed chintz is called cretonne. Chintz end-uses include draperies, slipcovers, skirts, and summer dresses, and shirts.
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Chlorinated Wool - Wool in the fiber, yarn, or fabric form which are treated chemically to decrease felting shrinkage and increase ability to take dyes.
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Chlorine Resistance Fabric - This special fabric helps to kill bacteria and stops the growth
of algae in the chlorinated water. Unfortunately, regular
exposure to chlorinated water can have an extremely
detrimental effect and can cause irreversible damage to a
fabric.
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Chlorine Retention - Some resin treatments or finishes given cotton, rayon, nylon, or blended fabrics, may cause goods to retain varying amounts of chlorine when laundered or bleached with chlorine.
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Cinnabar - The principal ore of mercury and is essential to many scientific instruments such as blood pressure manometers, thermometers, and weather instrumentation. The color ranges from a bright scarlet or cinnamon red to brick red. See also Mineral dyes.
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Cinnabar - The principal ore of mercury and is essential to many scientific
instruments such as blood pressure manometers,
thermometers, and weather instrumentation. The color ranges
from a bright scarlet or cinnamon red to brick red. See also
Mineral Dyes.
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Circular Economy - The circular economy is a framework of production and
consumption where everything has a value, and nothing is
wasted. Its circularity is designed to transform a throw-away
economy into one that eliminates waste. This is done by
circulating resources and giving them as much longevity as
possible by reusing and recycling as well as adopting low-
carbon efficiencies.
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Circular Knit - Weft knit fabric made on a circular needle-bed knitting machine, which produces fabric in tubular form. Common types include single or double knits. Seamless hosiery are also made on a circular knitting machine. Although allowances are made on the machine for knitting the welt and foot. See Knitting (Circular).
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Circularity - Circularity is a product created with its own end-of-life taken
into account. In a circular economy, once the user is finished
with the product, it goes back into the supply chain instead of
the landfill. The motto for the circularity movement is "Waste
Not, Want Not".
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Citizenship and Immigration Services (CIS) - Created as a separate U.S. Government bureau by the Homeland Security Act of 2002, CIS allows the Department of Homeland Security to improve the administration of benefits and immigration services for
applicants by exclusively focusing on immigration and citizenship services. The immediate priorities of the new USCIS are to promote national security, continue to eliminate immigration adjudications backlogs, and implement solutions for improving immigration customer services.
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Clean Bill of Lading - A receipt for goods issued by a carrier that indicated that the goods were received in “apparent good order and condition,” without damages or other irregularities. Compare Foul bill of lading.
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Clean Development Mechanism - A flexible mechanism under the Kyoto Protocol that allows industrialized nations with a greenhouse gas reduction commitment to invest in projects to reduce emissions in developing countries as an alternative to more expensive emission reductions in their own countries.
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Clean Development Mechanism - A flexible mechanism under the Kyoto Protocol that allows industrialized nations with a greenhouse gas reduction commitment to invest in projects to reduce emissions in developing countries as an alternative to more expensive emission reductions in their own countries.
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Clean Draft - A draft to which no documents have been attached.
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Clean Tech - Also referred to as green tech, clean technology, and services
improve efficiency and productivity without harming the
environment. Unlike climate tech, clean tech companies aren’t
required to reduce greenhouse gas emissions.
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Cleaner Cotton™ - A name given to "California-grown Cleaner Cotton", which uses up to 73 percent fewer chemicals than conventional cotton, and directly benefits the local environment.
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Cleaner Cotton™ Campaign - Part of the Sustainable Cotton Project, this campaign helps manufacturers develop strategies to incorporate Cleaner Cotton™ and organic cotton fibers into existing products.
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Cleaning - Hand operation in which the basting threads are removed from the garment; usually done prior to the final pressing.
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Climate Change - Climate change is a long-term change in global or regional
climate and temperature patterns. Historically, climate change
has occurred naturally via solar radiation and shifting ocean
currents. At present, however, it is most influenced by
greenhouse gas-emitting human activities and the disruption
of natural carbon sinks. The term is often used
interchangeably with “global warming,” though global warming
refers to the steady and consistent change in global
temperatures.
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Climate Disclosures - Climate disclosures are a pivotal step in reaching net zero
carbon emissions. By meeting investor and public demands for
disclosure, it is hoped that transparency will make
organizations greener. The US released a proposed ruling in
March 2022 to make it mandatory for all publicly listed
companies to make disclosures. The rule amendments would
require domestic and foreign registrants to include certain
climate-related data in their registration statements and
reports. These include climate-related risks and their actual or
impacts on the registrant’s business, strategy, and roadmap,
information about climate-related targets and certain climate-
related financial metrics.
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Climate Neutral Now - The Climate Neutral Now initiative was launched by the United
Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCC) to
grow climate action by encouraging and supporting
organizations and individuals to work together voluntarily to
achieve a climate neutral planet by 2050, as outlined in the
Paris Agreement.
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Climate Tech - Technology and services, like carbon capture and solar power,
that are aimed directly at reducing greenhouse gas emissions
to stop global warming.
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Clo Value - A unit of thermal resistance. The insulation required to produce the necessary heat to keep an individual comfortable at 21 degrees Centigrade with air movement at .1 m/s. One clo is about equal to the insulation value of typical indoor clothing.
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Closed Loop or Closed System - Closed Loop refers to a zero-waste system where all material
in a supply chain is reused, recycled, or composted. This
approach is designed to stop excessive waste from entering
landfills, conserve natural resources, and increase
environmental efficiencies. The idea is that recycled items
require less labor and energy. In an ideal world, products
would be in a continuous circle of closed loop recycling.
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Closures - Items used to close openings in apparel and other consumer textile products, i.e. buttons, buckles, hook and eye, snaps and zippers.
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Clothing Miles - The distance that clothing and its various components travel from the field, to the factory, to the consumers’ wardrobe. As most clothing and components are manufactured overseas, transportation over such large distances produces considerable carbon emissions.
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CO2 - See "CO2" definition under "Carbon Dioxide".
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Coalition for Environmentally Responsible Economies (CERES) - CERES is a not-for-profit sustainability advocacy organization
founded in the US in 1989. Over the years, CERES has built up
a network of investors, companies, and nonprofits to provide
data-driven resources on sustainability, risks, and
opportunities. to be endorsed by CERES organizations must
commit to a ten-point code of conduct known as the CERES
principles. These are a set of guide rails to assist them with
their sustainability behaviors. In addition, members must
measure their performance against the principles annually and
produce a publicly available environmental report.
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Coated Fabrics - Fabrics that have been coated with a lacquer, varnish, rubber, plastic resin of polyvinyl chloride or polyethylene, or other substance to make them longer lasting or impervious to water or other liquids.
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Cochineal - This refers to both the insect of the same name and the crimson (red) dye derived from it. The insects are harvested for dye in a number of ways, each producing a different color.
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Coconut Fiber - Fiber created from patented technologies where recycled
coconut shells are heated at high temperatures to activate
carbon, that is then infused into fibers like cotton, polyester or
nylon. The fiber has been known to provide evaporative
cooling, odor resistance and UV protection; all while using
environmentally friendly technologies.
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Coir Fiber - A coarse fiber extracted from the fibrous outer shell of a coconut. Brown coir is harvested from fully ripened coconuts. It is thick, strong and has high abrasion resistance; it is typically used in floor mats and doormats, brushes, mattresses, floor tiles and sacking. White coir fibers are harvested from the coconuts before they are ripe. These fibers are white or light brown in color and are smoother and finer, but also weaker. They are generally spun to make yarn that is used in mats or rope. See also "Natural vegetable fibers".
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Collar - Two or more thicknesses of fabric attached to the neckhole opening to provide a firm and neat-appearing finish.
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Collar (Banded) - The visible or panel portion of the collar is cut separately and attached to the neckband portion. This is normal dress shirt construction.
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Collar (convertible) - The panel or visible portion of the collar and the neckband portion are cut as one piece, but folded once along the length to produce the appearance of a banded collar.
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Collar (Lined) - A collar made by placing a piece of interlining between the two pieces of body fabric.
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Collar (one piece) - A collar constructed from a single piece of fabric with the center fold forming the outer edge.
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Collar (padding) - Attaching the under-collar to canvas with several rows of blindstitching.
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Collar (sandwich) - A collar which has the top-collar inserted between the canvas and the under-collar.
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Collar (topstitched) - A collar with an added row of stitching along the folded edges.
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Collar (two-piece) - A collar formed by joining two identical pieces, inverting and sometimes topstitching along the folded edges.
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Collection Papers - All documents (commercial invoices, bill of lading, etc.) submitted to a buyer for the purpose of receiving payment for a shipment.
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Color Abrasion - Color changes in localized areas of a garment due to differential wear, such as the knees of blue jeans. Often evident in cross-dye shades of blends where durable press treatments are applied. Color abrasion is often called "frosting".
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Color Removal & Enzymes - The process of color removal and abrasion with enzymes seen as a more environmentally acceptable alternative to bleaching and stonewashing. Introduced into the market in the 1980s, recent advances in this technology have increased the number of shades achievable via enzyme treatment. There is no risk of over-bleaching with only a minimal level of fiber strength loss.
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Colorfastness - The ability of a fabric to maintain its color and resist fading when exposed to water/washing, sun, light, atmosphere, or other environmental conditions.
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Combed Cotton - Combed cotton is an extremely soft version of cotton made by using a production process whereby the cotton fibers undergo a specialty treating before they are spun into yarn. Combed cotton is softer and stronger than conventional cotton because the shorter, breakable fibers are removed during the combing process. In addition, the straightened fibers lie closer together after combing, making the combed cotton fabric less likely to fray and unravel. Products containing combed cotton, are usually identified, because the process removes volume and adds an extra production step. As a result, combed cotton products are also slightly more expensive than conventional cotton products.
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Combing - The combing process is an additional step beyond carding. In this process the fibers are arranged in a highly parallel form, and additional short fibers are removed, producing high quality yarns with excellent strength, fineness, and uniformity.
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Comfort Stretch - The term given to the freedom of movement experienced in the wearing of a garment that contains spandex, or has stretch engineered into a yarn through mechanical stretch construction.
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Commercial Attaché - The commerce expert on the diplomatic staff of his or her country’s embassy or large consulate.
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Commercial Invoice - An itemized list of goods shipped, usually included among an exporter’s collection papers.
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Commercial Operations Advisory Committee of U.S. Customs and Border Protection (COAC) - A membership Departmental Advisory Committee on Commercial Operations of Customs and Border Protection and Related Functions.
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Commercial Standards - "Recorded voluntary standards of the trade." The U.S. Bureau of Standards issues Commercial Standards which are not laws, but are important as accepted voluntary benchmarks of performance and quality by the industry. These standards are usually referred to by number, and spell out test procedures and minimum performance guidelines.
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Commingling of Raw Materials - When a manufacturer or refiner purchases property for resale, prior to or during the manufacturing of goods, and physically commingles this purchased property with other property not purchased.
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Commission Agent - An agent who purchases goods in his or her own country on behalf of foreign importers such as government agencies and large private concerns.
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Committee for the Implementation of Textile Agreements (CITA) - An interagency group chaired by the U.S. Department of Commerce, responsible for matters affecting textile trade policy and for supervising the implementation of all textile trade agreements. CITA also coordinates the administration's efforts to combat illegal textile and apparel transshipment; implements the ‘short supply’ and other provisions of AGOA and the U.S. CBTPA; and takes textile and apparel safeguard actions, when appropriate, under the World Trade Organization (WTO) Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) and the
North American Free Trade Agreement. CITA administers the phase-out of textile and apparel quotas on WTO countries required under the ATC.
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Common Carrier - An individual, partnership, or corporation that transports persons or goods for compensation.
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Composite Fabric - An engineered fabric made from two or more cut fiber
components. One component is often a strong fiber such as
fiberglass, Kevlar®, or carbon fiber that gives the material its
tensile strength, while another component (often called a
matrix) is often a resin, such as polyester or epoxy that binds
the fibers together.
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Compression Fabric - A high tenacity stretch fabric which, when in a close fitting garment, provides muscles with a firm compression fit that lessons vibrations, reduces fatigue, and keeps muscles energized. The fabric is usually made in a knit construction, using a series of gradient fibers with an open knit inner surface to create a moisture transfer environment.
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Compression Stretch - The name given to the expansive stretch that is created by the spandex fibers used in the development of a compression fabric.
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Conductive Fabrics - Embedded with conductive threads, these fabrics can transmit
electrical signals and are used in wearable electronics.
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Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) - The CII works to create and sustain an environment conducive to the growth of industry in India, partnering industry and government alike through advisory and consultative processes. CII is a non-government, not-for-profit, industry led and industry managed organization, playing a proactive role in India’s development process.
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Conference of the Parties (COP) - For nearly ten years, the United Nations (UN) has been
bringing together every country in the world for global climate
summits for Conference of the Parties or COPs. The meetings
are responsible for monitoring and reviewing the United
Nation’s Framework Convention on Climate Change. COP21,
held in Paris in 2015, was historic in its creation of the first
international climate change agreement.
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Confirmed Letter of Credit - A letter of credit, issued by a foreign bank, the validity of which has been confirmed by a U.S. bank. An exporter whose payment terms are a confirmed letter of credit is assured of payment by the U.S. bank even if the foreign buyer or the foreign bank defaults. See Letter of Credit.
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Consignment - Delivery of merchandise from an exporter (the consignor) to an agent (the consignee) under agreement that the agents sell the merchandise for the account of the exporter. The consignor retains title to the goods until the consignee has sold them. The consignee sells the goods for commission and remits the net proceeds to the consignor.
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Consular Declaration - A formal statement, made to the consul of a foreign country, describing goods to be shipped.
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Consular Invoice - A document, required by some foreign countries, describing a shipment of goods and showing information such as the consignor, consignee, and value of the shipment. Certified by a consular official of the foreign country, it is used by the country’s customs officials to verify quantity, and the nature of the shipment.
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Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) - An independent U.S. federal regulatory agency created in 1972 to protect the public from unreasonable risks of injuries and deaths associated with consumer products.
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Consumer Product Safety Commission (CSPC) - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission is charged with protecting the public from unreasonable risks of serious injury or death from more than 15,000 types of consumer products under the agency’s jurisdiction.
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Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act (CPSIA) - This bill, signed into law in August 2008, establishes consumer product safety standards and other safety requirements for children’s products. It will serve to modernize and reauthorize the Consumer Product Safety Commission by boosting funding to $136 million by 2014 and increasing staff. The legislation will increase consumer access to information about hazardous products while encouraging information sharing among local and federal agencies; it will also require the CPSC to create a publicly accessible database of harms related to the use of consumer products that are reported by consumers, government agencies, health care professionals, and other non-governmental sources.
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Container Security Initiative (CSI) - CSI is a U.S.-run program intended to help increase security for containerized cargo shipped to the United States from around the world.
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Continued Dumping and Subsidy Offset Act - see Byrd Amendment.
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Continuous Cure - A method of curing durable press garments which uses a moving conveyor system to carry garments into and out of the curing oven. Also known as continuous oven.
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Continuous Filament - A long continuous, unbroken strand of fiber extruded from a spinneret in the form of a monofilament. Most manufactured fibers such as nylon, polyester, rayon, and acetate are made in continuous filament form.
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Converter - A person or a company which buys grey goods and sells them as finished fabrics. A converter organizes and manages the process of finishing the fabric to a buyers' specifications, particularly the bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc.
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Convertible Currency - A currency that can be bought and sold for other currencies at will.
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Cooling Quality - Unlike traditional moisture-wicking fabrics, a specialty fabric
technology that consists of a combination of chemical-free
blended yarns that deliver three distinct functions: wicking,
moisture transportation, and regulated evaporation.
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Copyrights - The legal right granted to a distributor, manufacturer, or creator to reproduce, prepare derivative works, distribute, display, sell, lend, or rent their creation.
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Corduroy - A fabric, usually made of cotton, utilizing a cut-pile weave construction. Extra sets of filling yarns are woven into the fabric to form ridges of yarn on the surface. The ridges are built so that clear lines can be seen when the pile is cut
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Core Yarn - A yarn in which one type of fiber is twisted or wrapped around another fiber that serves as a core. Core yarns are often used to make stretch fabrics where the core is spandex or rubber, and the outer wrapped fiber is a textured manufactured fiber such as polyester or nylon.
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Core-Spun Yarns - Consist of a filament base yarn, with an exterior wrapping of loose fiber which has not been twisted into a yarn. Polyester filament is often wrapped with a cotton outer layer in order to provide the strength and resiliency of polyester, along with the moisture-absorbent aesthetics and dye affinity of cotton. Sewing thread as well as household and apparel fabrics are made from these yarns.
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Corn Fiber - A biodegradable synthetic fiber produced with the lactic acid obtained through cornstarch fermentation. It is an entirely new type of synthetic fiber derived from plants instead of petroleum. See also "Ingeo®" and "Sorona®".
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Corporate Social Responsibility Index (CSRI) - A ranking of the top 50 companies in the United States distinguished by the general public for their corporate social responsibility. Results were compiled by the Boston College for Corporate Citizenship and Reputation Institute (RI), and were based on results from RI’s Global Pulse Study.
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Correspondent Bank - A bank that, in its own country, handles the business of a foreign bank.
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Cost and Freight (C&F) - A pricing term indicating that the cost of the goods and freight charges are included in the quoted price; the buyer arranges for and pays insurance.
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Cost and Freight (CFR) - A pricing term indicating that the cost of the goods and freight charges are included in the quoted price; the buyer arranges for and pays insurance. See also C&F.
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Cost, Insurance, Freight (CIF) - A pricing term indicating the cost of the goods, insurance, and freight and the ports involved in the transportation.
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Cotton - A unicellular, natural fiber that grows in the seed pod of the cotton plant. Fibers are typically 1/2 inch to 2 inches long. The longest staple fibers, longer than 1 1/2 inch, including the Pima and Egyptian varieties, produce the highest quality cotton fabrics.
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Cotton - A shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including the Americas, India and Africa. It is a fiber most often spun into yarn or thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile, that is the most widely used natural-fiber cloth in clothing today.
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Council for Trade in Goods - The Council for Trade in Goods (also called
The Goods Council) is made up of members from all WTO countries, and has 11 committees dealing with issues such as agriculture, market access, subsidies, and anti-dumping measures.
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Count of Cloth - The number of ends and picks per inch in a woven fabric. If a cloth is 64 X 60, it means there are 64 ends and 60 picks per inch in a woven fabric. A cloth that has the same number of ends and picks per inch in woven goods is called a square cloth. 80-square percale, for example, has 80 ends and 80 picks per inch. Pick count is the term that is synonymous with texture or number of filling picks per inch.
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Counter-Trade - The sale of goods or services that are paid for in whole or in part by the transfer of goods or services from a foreign country. See Barter.
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Countervailing Duty (CV) - A duty imposed to counter unfairly subsidized products.
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Countervailing Measures - Additional measures imposed by the importing country to offset government subsidies in the exporting country, when the subsidized imports cause material injury to domestic industry in the importing country.
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Course - The rows of loops or stitches running across a knitted fabric. Corresponds to the weft or filling in woven goods.
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Court of International Trade (CIT) - The CIT has jurisdiction over any civil action against the United States arising from Federal laws governing import transactions. The court hears antidumping, product classification, and countervailing duty matters as well as appeals of unfair trade practice cases from the International Trade Commission.
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Crabbing - A treatment used to set the cloth and yarn twists permanently in woolens and worsted goods.
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Cradle to Cradle - The development and production of products with the aim that
they can truly be recycled or upcycled at the end of their
natural life.
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Cradle to Grave - Awareness and responsibility for a product/asset from its
inception to its final disposal.
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Crease Resistant Finish - Also referred to as CRF. Finishes used on fabrics that make them resistant to wrinkling and creasing, such as synthetic resin type finishes like durable press. Today some fabrics are made highly resistant to wrinkling through fiber blending and construction.
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Crease Retention - The ability of a cloth to hold or pleat or a crease, which has been intentionally created, through the use of a heat treatment. Heat setting of thermoplastic fibers causes creases to be permanently set.
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Credit Risk Insurance - Insurance designed to cover risks of non-payment for delivered goods.
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Crepe - A variety of lightweight fabrics characterized by a crinkly surface, obtained either via use of hard twist yarns, chemical treatments, weave, construction, or some form of embossing or surface treatment. Crepes are available today in an unlimited variety of fibers and blends, and in may different constructions.
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Crepe-back Satin - A satin fabric in which highly twisted yarns are used in the filling direction. The floating yarns are made with low twist and may be of either high or low luster. If the crepe effect is the right side of the fabric, the fabric is called satin-back crepe.
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Crinoline - A lightweight, plain weave, stiffened fabric with a low yarn count (few yarns to the inch in each direction). Used as a foundation to support the edge of a hem or puffed sleeve.
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Crocheting - A fabric, trimming, or lace made by interlocking successive loops or stitches with a hook or needle.
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Crocking - The rubbing-off of dye from a fabric. Crocking can be the result of lack of penetration of the dyeing agent, the use of incorrect dyes or dyeing procedures, or the lack of proper washing procedures and finishing treatments after the dyeing process.
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Crocking - The tendency of excess dyes to rub off. Napped and pile fabrics in deep colors are most likely to crock. Industry has set standards and tests to measure and prevent crocking.
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Crotch Seam - The short seam from the back of the pants fly to the inseam.
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Cruelty-Free - Cruelty-Free means that a product and its ingredients were
not tested on animals.
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Cuff (lined) - A cuff with interlining placed between the two pieces of body fabric.
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Cuff (one-piece) - A two-ply cuff formed by folding over a single piece of fabric, usually with a lining in between.
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Cuff (topstitched) - A cuff with an added row of stitching along the folded edges.
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Cuff (two-piece) - A cuff in which two identical pieces of fabric, usually with a lining in between, are joined by a seam along the edge, then turned and sometimes topstitched near the folded edges.
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Cuprammonium - A process of producing a type of regenerated rayon fiber. In this process, the wood pulp or cotton liners are dissolved in an ammoniac copper oxide solution. Bemberg rayon is a type of Cuprammonium rayon.
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Curing - A baking process with the use of resin finishes, applying heat under carefully controlled conditions to a fabric or the garment, which cause a reaction in the finishing agents and make them work. Crease-retention, water repellency, wrinkle resistance, and durable press are examples of finishes that are cured.
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Customhouse Broker - An individual or firm licensed to enter and clear goods through customs.
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Customs - The authorities designated to collect duties levied by a country on imports and exports. The term also applies to the procedures involved in such collection.
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Customs and Border Protection (CBP) - The priority mission of the U.S. Government’s bureau of CBP is to prevent terrorists and terrorist weapons from entering the United States. The CBP also regulates and facilitates international trade, collecting import duties, and enforcing U.S. trade laws.
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Customs Insurance Bond - A bond that guarantees the payment of import duties and taxes and also guarantees compliance with regulations governing the import of merchandise into the United States.
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Customs Policy for Trade and Terrorism (CPTAT) - Customs-Trade Partnership Against Terrorism (CTPAT) is a joint initiative between U.S. Customs and businesses. In response to 9/11, U.S. Customs developed a new industry-wide security standard for
protecting supply chains against terrorism. To qualify for membership in CPTAT, companies must conduct a detailed self-assessment of supply chain security using the CTPAT guidelines created by the U.S. Customs Service and the international trade community. Companies must also submit a supply chain security profile questionnaire to
Customs, and implement a program to enhance security throughout the entire supply chain in accordance with the CTPAT guidelines.
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Cut-on-cross - Fabric that is cut so that the warp runs horizontally across the garment piece.
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Cut-on-fold - Fabric that is doubled, then cut.
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Damask - A glossy jacquard fabric, usually made from linen, cotton, rayon, silk, or blends. The patterns are flat and reversible. The fabric is often used in napkins, tablecloths, draperies, and upholstery.
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Dart (cut-in) - An open dart cut in approximately 12" under the armhole.
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Dart (front or double) - An additional closed dart located toward the front edge of the garment, used to get maximum waist suppression.
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Dart (panel) - A panel sewn full length to the front that is used for waist suppression.
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Date Draft - A draft that matures in a specified number of days after the date issued, without regard to the date of acceptance. See draft, Sight draft, and time draft.
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Deferred Payment Credit - A type of letter of credit providing for payment some time after presentation of shipping documents by exporter.
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Deforestation - The deliberate clearing of forested land. Deforestation has
dramatically altered landscapes across the globe. Today the
largest deforestation projects are happening in tropical
rainforests for roads, logging as well as to create large cattle
ranches, oil palm and rubber plantations.
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Demand Draft - A draft that is payable upon presentation to the drawee.
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Demurrage - (i). In international transportation, a charge for the failure to remove cargo from a terminal within the allowed free time. Also, a charge for failure to load or unload a ship within the allowed period. (ii). In U.S. domestic transportation, a penalty charge against users for use of carriers' equipment beyond the allowed free time.
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Denier - A system of measuring the weight of a continuous filament fiber. In the United States, this measurement is used to number all manufactured fibers (both filament and staple), and silk, but excluding glass fiber. The lower the number, the finer the fiber; the higher the number, the heavier the fiber. Numerically, a denier is the equivalent to the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of continuous filament fiber.
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Denier Per Filament - The size of an individual filament, or an individual staple fiber if it were continuous, The dpf is determined by dividing the yarn denier per filament by the number of filaments in the yarn.
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Denim - A firm 2X1 or 3X1 twill weave fabric often having a whitish tinge obtained by using white filling yarns with colored warp yarns. Heavier weight denims, usually blue, are used for dungarees, work clothes, and men's and women's sportswear. Lighter weight denims have a softer finish and come in a variety of colors and patterns for sportswear.
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Department of Commerce (DOC) - The U.S. Government’s DOC has many domestic and global offices related to the regulation, development, and promotion of domestic and international trade.
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Department of Homeland Security (DHS) - The new U.S. Government Department of Homeland Security has three primary missions: (i) Prevent terrorist attacks within the United States, (ii) reduce America's vulnerability to terrorism, and (iii) minimize the damage from potential attacks and natural disasters.
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Department of Industrial Relations (DIR) - The California Department of Industrial Relations was established to improve working conditions for California's wage earners, and to advance opportunities for profitable employment in California.
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Department of Transportation (DOT) - An executive department of the U.S. government responsible for the development of national transportation policies.
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Destination Control Statement - Various statements that the U.S. government requires to be displayed on export shipments and that specify the destinations for which export of the shipment has been authorized.
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Devaluation - The official lowering of the value of one country’s currency in terms of one or more foreign currencies.
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Discrepancy – Letter of Credit - When documents presented do not conform to the Letter of Credit.
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Dispatch - An amount paid by a vessel’s operator to a charterer if loading or unloading is completed in less time than stipulated in the charter party.
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Distributed Generation - Also known as distributed energy, on-site generation, or
district/decentralized energy, distributed generation is when
power generation technologies are located near where the
electricity is used, which reduces environmental impact,
decreases transmission and distribution losses, and improves
grid stability and security.
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Distributor - A foreign agent who sells for a suppler directly and maintains an inventory of the supplier’s products.
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Division of Labor Standards Enforcement (DLSE) - The state of California’s DLSE adjudicates wage claims, investigates discrimination and public work complaints, and enforces Labor Code statutes and Industrial Welfare Commission orders.
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Dobby Weave - A decorative weave, characterized by small figures, usually geometric, that are woven into the fabric structure. Dobbies may be of any weight or compactness, with yarns ranging from very fine to coarse and fluffy. Standard dobby fabrics are usually flat and relatively fine or sheer. However, some heavyweight dobby fabrics are available for home furnishings and for heavy apparel
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Dock Receipt - A receipt issued by an ocean carrier to acknowledge receipt of a shipment at the carrier’s dock or warehouse facilities. Also see Warehouse receipt.
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Documentary Draft - A draft to which documents are attached.
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Documents Against Acceptance (D/A) - Instructions given by a shipper to a bank indicating that documents transferring title to goods should be delivered to the buyer (or drawee) only upon the buyers’ acceptance of the attached draft.
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Doeskin - Generally used to describe a type of fabric finish in which a low nap is brushed in one direction to create a soft suede-like feel on the fabric surface. End-uses include billiard table surfaces and men's' sportswear.
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Doha Development Agenda (DDA) - The November 2001 declaration of the Fourth Ministerial Conference in Doha, Qatar, mandates for negotiations on a range of subjects, including issues concerning the implementation of the present agreements. The negotiations take place in the Trade Negotiations Committee and its subsidiaries. Other work takes place in other WTO councils and committees.
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Doha Round - This agency within the WTO aims to reduce or eliminate tariff barriers and to improve developing countries’ market access.
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Domestic International Sales Corporation (DISC) - The predecessor of the Foreign Sales Corporation which took on a new definition as a result of the 1984 Tax Reform Act. DISCs can now provide a tax deferral on up to $10 million of exports so long as the funds remain in export-related investments
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Donegal Tweed - A medium to heavy, plain or twill weave fabric in which colorful yarn slubs are woven into the fabric. The name originally applied to a hand-woven woolen tweed fabric made in Donegal, Ireland. End-uses include winter coats and suits.
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Dotted Swiss - A lightweight, sheer cotton or cotton blend fabric with a small dot flock-like pattern either printed on the surface of the fabric, or woven into the fabric. End-uses for this fabric include blouses, dresses, baby clothes, and curtains.
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Double Cloth - A fabric construction, in which two fabrics are woven on the loom at the same time, one on top of the other. In the weaving process, the two layers of woven fabric are held together using binder threads. The woven patterns in each layer of fabric can be similar or completely different
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Double Knit - A fabric knitted on a circular knitting machine using interlocking loops and a double stitch on a double needle frame to form a fabric with double thickness. It is the same on both sides. Today, most double knits are made of I5O denier polyester, although many lightweight versions are now being made using finer denier yarns and blends of filament and spun yarns.
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Double Weave - A woven fabric construction made by interlacing two or more sets of warp yarns with two or more sets of filling yarns. The most common double weave fabrics are made using a total of either four or five sets of yarns.
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Down - The soft, fluffy fiber or underfeathers of ducks, geese, or other water fowl. Used primarily for insulation in outerwear garments.
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Draft (or Bill of Exchange) - An unconditional order in writing from one person (the drawer) to another (the drawee), directing the drawee to pay a specified amount to a named drawer at a fixed or determinable future date. See Date Draft, Sight Draft, Time Draft.
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Drapeable - The ability of a fabric to hang softly into loose flexible folds.
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Drawback - An article manufactured or produced in the United States with the use of imported components or raw materials. It is a refund of US Customs duties, paid on imported merchandise, which is subsequently exported or used in the production of products that are then exported.
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Drawee - The individual or firm on whom a draft in drawn and who owes the stated amount. Also see Draft.
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Drawer - The individual or firm that issues or signs a draft and thus stands to receive payment of the stated amount from the drawee. Also see Draft.
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Drayage - The charge made for hauling freight via carts, drays or trucks.
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Dry Cleaning - A cleansing method or process applied to garments in which organic solvents such as carbon tetrachloride, perchloroethylene, or certain hydrocarbon compounds are used to remove dirt, soil, and most spots and stains. Unaffected stains have to be removed by other special agents.
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Duck - The name duck covers a wide range of fabrics. A tightly woven, heavy, plain-weave, bottom-weight fabric with a hard, durable finish. The fabric is usually made of cotton, and is widely used in men's and women's slacks, and children's play clothes. The most important fabrics in this group are known as number duck, army duck, and flat or ounce duck.
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Dumping - Selling merchandise in another country at a price below the costs incurred in production and shipment.
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Durability - The ability of a fabric to resist wear through continual use.
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Durable Press - More or less interchangeable with the term permanent press, but actually more precise. Durable press implies that the shape retention properties of a garment are excellent and durable for the life of the garment.
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Durable Water Repellent (DWR) - Fabrics that retain their durability and their ability to repel water after wearing, washing, and cleaning. Typically involves a fabric with a coating
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Duty - A tax imposed on imports by the customs authority of a country. Duties are generally based on the value of the goods (ad valorem duties), some other factor such as weight or quantity (specific duties), or a combination of value and other factors (compound duties).
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Dye (Piece) - Dyeing of the fabric into solid colors after weaving or knitting.
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Dye (Yarn) - Dyeing of the yarn into solid colors before weaving or knitting.
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Earth Pledge - Founded in 1991 in New York City, Earth Pledge Foundation collaborates with government, businesses, and communities to advance the adoption of sustainable practices. FutureFashion, one of several company initiatives, serves to demonstrate that fashion can be sustainable. They are currently working with industry and the public to promote the use of renewable, reusable, and non-polluting materials and methods.
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Eco - Of or relating to habitat or household, mostly used as a prefix related to ecology. Eco comes from the ancient Greek word "oikos" (house). e.g. eco-label, eco-friendly, eco-shopping. Within the textile industry, "eco" refers to fibers/fabrics that are sustainable or friendly to the environment.
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Eco-friendly - A term used to describe services and goods that cause very little, if any, harm to the environment.
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Economic Development Administration (EDA) - Under the auspices of the Department of Commerce, the EDA oversees Trade Adjustment Assistance (TAA) programs. The EDA provides grants for infrastructure development, local capacity building, and business development to help communities alleviate conditions of substantial and persistent unemployment and underemployment in economically distressed areas and regions.
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Edge - The front margin of the garment that extends from front corner to front corner.
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Edge Tape - A tape sewn along the front edge of a coat from top of the lapel to bottom of the facing. On less expensive coats, this tape starts at the bottom of the lapel (called the breakline). The tape is usually sewn with an edge-knife machine.
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Elasticity - The ability of a fiber or fabric to return to its original length, shape, or size immediately after the removal of stress.
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Electronic Data Interchange for Administration, Commerce, and Transport (EDIFACT) - A set of standards, directories and guidelines for the electronic interchange of structured data related to trade in goods or services, between independent computerized information systems.
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Electronic Visa Implementation System (ELVIS) - ELVIS is a system whereby the key data set out on export visas is electronically transmitted in EDIFACT (Electronic Data Interchange for Administration, Commerce and Transport) from the exporting authority to the U.S. Customs for the purpose of customs clearance.
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Embossing - A calendering process in which fabrics are engraved with the use of heated rollers under pressure to produce a raised design on the fabric surface.
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Embroidery - An embellishment of a fabric or garment in which colored threads are sewn on to the fabric to create a design. Embroidery may be done either by hand or machine.
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Emissions - The particles, substances, or radiation released into the
atmosphere. Emissions are one of the driving forces behind
global warming and climate change.
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Emissions Trading - A proposed administrative approach designed to reduce pollution by providing economic incentives for reductions in the emission of pollutants. A government or international body will set a limit on amount of a pollutant that can be emitted. Companies or nations are issued emission permits which dictate a specified allowance for the amount of pollutants they are allowed to emit. Upon exceeding their allowance, companies may purchase credits from companies that pollute less, thereby rewarding those with excess allowances. See also "Cap and Trade".
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Encapsulation - A process in which the fibers of a fabric are coated with a filmy substance to create certain high performance qualities, such as breathability.
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End of Life - End of life describes the final stage of a product’s useful life
where it is then disposed of, reused, or recycled.
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End-And-End - Broadcloth, chambray, madras, or other fabric having alternating warp yarns, usually one in a color and one in white.
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Engineered Polymer-based Materials - These fabrics are produced by a modified or engineered
manufacturing technique, rather than through conventional or
unconventional engineering processes. The need for today's
engineered fabrics have evolved from the automobile sector
into aeronautics, marine, and geo-engineered materials into
sports items, packaging materials, and bio-based materials.
Engineered fabrics are becoming the base for a variety of
innovative textile developments for wide variety of
applications. The popularity of engineered textile fabrics can
also consist of processes involving triple layer and 3-D fabrics,
as well as non-woven applications for building products and
tannery materials. The growth of engineered fabrics can be
linked to applications made from both natural and manmade
fibers.
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Environment, Social, & Corporate Governance (ESG) - ESG describes an organization's corporate commercial
interests that focus on sustainable and ethical impacts. Captial
markets are increasingly using these non-financial factors as
part of their analysis in evaluating an organization and
identifying material risks and growth opportunities.
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Environmental Management System - An EMS is a set of processes and practices that allow
organizations to reduce their environmental impact and at the
same time increase operational efficiencies. This is achieved
through consistent review, evaluation, and enhancement of
environmental performance. Each EMS is designed to meet the
specific requirements of the organization.
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Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) - An agency of the U.S government established in 1970 that serves to protect human health while safeguarding the natural environment: air, water and land. The agency conducts environmental assessments, research, and education. It has the primary responsibility for setting and enforcing national standards under a variety of environmental laws, in consultation with various levels of government. The agency also works with industries in a wide variety of voluntary pollution prevention programs and energy conservation efforts.
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Enzymes - Proteins that act as a catalyst and control the various steps in all chemical reactions.
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Ergonomic Seaming - This apparel construction technology is aimed at maximizing comfort and ease of movement. The key feature of this seaming technology is that the seams are constructed ergonomically. Therefore, the seams flow according to the body's natural movements, regardless of the type of activity engaged in by the wearer. The seams are placed away from potential pressure points, in order to maximize comfort and movement.
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Ergonomics - The study of improving a garment design by enhancing the wearers' comfort, performance, or health.
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ESG - (See also Environmental, Social and Governance
Standards). Material topics in each of the ESG pillars and
operational/ business approach to ESG varies by business,
company, stakeholder group compositions and values.
1) Environmental factors include the contribution a company
or government makes to climate change through greenhouse
gas emissions, along with waste management and energy
efficiency. Given renewed efforts to combat global warming,
cutting emissions and decarbonizing is become more
important.
2) Social includes human rights, labor standards in the
supply chain, any exposure to illegal child labor, and more
routine issues such as adherence to workplace health and
safety. A social score also rises if a company is well integrated
with its local community and therefore has a ‘social license’ to
operate with consent.
3) Governance of a corporation refers to the rules,
processes, laws, guidelines and guiderails that inform a
company’s operations and controls. Corporate governance
takes into account the decision-making authorities, rights and
impacts on various stakeholders including a board of directors,
shareholders, management and employees.
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Ethical consumerism - Involves purchasing products and/or services that are made ethically. This typically means that there is minimal harm to or exploitation of humans, animals, and the natural environment. It is practiced through positive buying, when ethical products are favored over those that are not. This type of consumerism has led to a rise in green brands, which has increased interest in ethic-based decisions in the mass market, including more understanding and information about business practices.
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EU/EFTA - European Union/European Free Trade Association.
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EUROCOTON - Committee of the Cotton and Allied Textile Industries of the European Communities.
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Eurodollars - U.S. dollars placed on deposit in banks outside the United States; usually refers to deposits in Europe.
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European Green Deal - The European Union’s (EU) Green Deal presented in 2019 is a
strategy designed to make the EU the first climate neutral
continent by 2050. It is designed to build the EU into a
sustainable economy by turning climate and environmental
challenges into opportunities by transitioning to a cleaner,
circular economy. It is backed by an investment plan totaling 1
trillion Euros.
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European Union / European Free Trade Assicaition (EU/EFTA) - The EU is the development of a single market through a standardized system of laws, which apply in all 27 member states. The EFTA is a free trade organization between four European countries that operates parallel to, and is linked to the EU.
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Ex-From - When used in pricing terms such as “ex-factory” or “ex-dock,” it signified that the price quoted applies only at the point of origin (in the two examples, at the seller’s factory or a dock at the import point). In practice, this kind of quotation indicates that the seller agrees to place the goods at the disposal of the buyer at the specified place within a fixed period of time.
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Exchange Permit - A government permit sometimes required by the importer’s government to enable the import firm to convert its own country’s currency into foreign currency with which to pay a seller in another country.
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Exchange Rate - The price of one currency in terms of another, that is, the number of units of one currency that may be exchanged for one unit of another currency.
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Eximbank - The Export-Import Bank of the United States is the official export credit agency of the United States. Eximbank's mission is to assist in financing the export of U.S. goods and services to international markets.
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Export Administration Regulations (EAR) - These regulations are issued by the United States Department of Commerce, Bureau of Export Administration (BXA) under laws relating to the control of certain exports, re-exports, and activities. In addition, the EAR implement anti-boycott law provisions requiring regulations to prohibit specified conduct by United States persons that has the effect of furthering or supporting boycotts fostered or imposed by a country against a country friendly to United States.
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Export Authorization Requirements - Requirements that must be satisfied before the shipment leaves the United States. Examples are pre-shipment inspections, some visa requirements, and requirements by some Arab nations that certificates of origin must be certified by an Arab diplomatic mission or chamber of commerce in the United States.
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Export Broker - An individual or firm that brings together buyers and sellers for a fee, but does not take part in actual sales transactions.
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Export Commission House - An organization which, for a commission, acts as a purchasing agent for a foreign buyer.
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Export Declaration - A form required for all shipments by the U.S. treasury Department and prepared by a shipper, indicating the value, weight, destination, and other basic information about an export shipment.
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Export License - A government document that permits the licensee to export department goods to certain destinations. See General Export License and Individually Validated Export License.
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Export Management Company (EMC) - A private firm that serves as the export department for several producers of goods or services, either by taking title or by soliciting and transacting export business on behalf of its clients in return for a commission, salary, or retainer plus commission.
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Export Processing Zones (EPZs) - Industrial parks designated by a government to provide tax and other incentives to export firms.
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Export Trading Company - A firm similar or identical to an export management company.
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Export Trading Company (ETC) - A firm similar or identical to an export management company.
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Exporters’ Textile Advisory Committee (ETAC) - The ETAC provides advice and guidance on the identification and surmounting of barriers to the expansion of textile exports, and on methods of encouraging textile firms to participate in export expansion. The committee functions solely as an advisory body in accordance with provisions of the Federal Advisory Committee Act.
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Extra-Territorial Income Exclusion Act (ETI) - Rules requiring a certain proportion of US-manufactured content and a certain proportion of foreign costs. Foreign tax credits on the goods concerned are not available to a participating entity. Actual manufacture may take place inside or outside the US.
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Eyelet - A type of fabric which contains patterned cut-outs, around which stitching or embroidery may be applied in order to prevent the fabric from raveling. Often worked around with a buttonhole stitch.
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Face Finished Fabrics - Fabrics which have surface treatments that provide a variety of looks and effects on the fabric surface. These include brushing, sanding, sueding, etc. The warp knit industry is specially innovative with face finishing techniques. The term also applies to more traditional fabrics such as meltons, jerseys, and overcoatings that have been finished only on the face.
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Facing - A piece of fabric that is sewn to the collar, front opening, cuffs, or arms eye of a garment to create a finished look.
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Faille - A glossy, soft, finely-ribbed silk-like woven fabric made from cotton, silk, or manufactured fibers
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Fair Currency Alliance (FCA) - The Fair Currency Alliance is a group of U.S. industrial, service, agricultural and labor associations.
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Fair Trade - An organized social movement and market-based approach
with a main goal to help developing countries to achieve better
trading conditions and adopt sustainable practices. The
movement advocates the payment of a fair price as well as
placing social and environmental standards on the production
of a wide variety of goods.
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Fair Trade - An organized social movement and market-based approach to empowering developing country producers and promoting sustainability. The movement advocates the payment of a fair price as well as placing social and environmental standards in areas related to the production of a wide variety of goods.
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Fair Trade Cotton - Cotton produced by suppliers who are guaranteed a fair price for their organically produced goods, and whose production process meets stringent, internationally established labor standards.
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Fairtrade Labeling Organizations International (FLO) - A non-profit, multi-stakeholder association involving 23 member organizations, traders and external experts. The organization develops and reviews Fairtrade standards and provides support to Fairtrade Certified Producers by assisting them in gaining and maintaining Fairtrade certification and capitalizing on market opportunities.
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Fast Fashion - Trendy fashionable clothing that is designed and
manufactured quickly and inexpensively to both drive & satisfy
consumer purchases. Fast fashion results in overproduction
and waste estimated in the millions of tons of fabric/garments
a year.
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Federal Communications Commission (FCC) - The FCC was established by the U.S. Government’s Communications Act of 1934 and is charged with regulating interstate and international communications by radio, television, wire, satellite and cable.
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Federal Maritime Commission (FMC) - This organization is an independent regulatory agency responsible for the regulation of ocean borne transportation in the foreign commerce of the U.S.
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Federal Trade Commission (FTC) - The U.S. Government’s FTC ensures the smooth operation of our free market system, and enforces federal consumer protection laws that prevent fraud, deception and unfair business practices. The Commission also enforces federal antitrust laws that prohibit anticompetitive mergers and other business practices restricting competition and harming consumers.
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Federal Transit Agency (FTA) - The FTA is part of the U.S. Department of Transportation which assists transit agencies in all 50 states, the District of Columbia, Puerto Rico, the U.S. Virgin Islands, Guam, Northern Mariana Islands and American Samoa.
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Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FICCI) - (FICCI) was established in 1927, to garner support for India’s independence and to further the interests of the Indian business community. Its mission is to integrate the Indian economy with the global mainstream.
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Fell - To join two pieces of material with the edges folded together using double needle stitching.
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Felt - From the Anglo-Saxon word meaning to filt or filter, the cloth is a matted, compact woolen material, of which melton might be cited as an example. A non-woven fabric made from wool, hair, or fur, and sometimes in combination with certain manufactured fibers, where the fibers are locked together in a process utilizing heat, moisture, and pressure to form a compact material.
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Fiber - The basic entity, either natural or manufactured, which is twisted into yarns, and then used in the production of a fabric.
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Fiberfill - Specially engineered manufactured fibers, which are used as filler material in pillows, mattresses, mattress pads, sleeping bags, comforters, quilts, and outerwear
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Filament - A manufactured fiber of indefinite length (continuous), extruded from the spinneret during the fiber production process.
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Filament Textured Yarns - Filament processed by special machinery to create bulk,
stretch and greater comfort. The texturizing process works
in such a way so that filament yarns do not lie parallel to one
another; this increased space creates the bulk. Most of
today's filament polyester is texturized.
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Filling - In a woven fabric, the yarn running from selvage to selvage at right angles to the warp. Each crosswise length is called a pick. In the weaving process, the filling yarn is carried by the shuttle or other type of yarn carrier.
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Findings - Any extra items attached to a garment during the manufacturing process. This can include trims, buttons, hooks, snaps, or embellishments.
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Finished Fabric - A fabric that has gone through all the necessary finishing processes, and is ready to be used in the manufacturing of garments. These processes include bleaching, dyeing, printing, heat setting, etc.
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Finishing - All processes through which a fabric passes after manufacturing in preparation for the market. These include bleaching, dyeing, printing, heat setting, etc.
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Fire Retardant - Fabrics treated with special chemical agents or finishes to make them retardant or resistant to burning. Today many fabrics achieve this property by using fibers that have this property built directly into the polymer. As a rule, fire retardant fabrics should be extremely durable through many washings and dry cleanings.
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Flame Resistant - Fabrics treated with special chemical agents or finishes to make them resistant to burning. Today many fabrics achieve this property by using fibers that have this property built directly into the polymer. A fabric is considered flame resistant if it passes federal specifications for specific end-uses.
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Flame Retardant - A chemical applied to a fabric, or incorporated into the fiber at the time of production, which significantly reduces a fabric's flammability.
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Flannel - A medium-weight, plain or twill weave fabric that is typically made from cotton, a cotton blend, or wool. The fabric has a very soft hand, brushed on both sides to lift the fiber ends out of the base fabric and create a soft, fuzzy surface. End-uses include shirts and pajamas.
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Flannelette - A medium-weight, plain weave fabric with a soft hand, usually made from cotton. The fabric is usually brushed only on one side, and is lighter weight than flannel. End-uses include shirts and pajamas.
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Flax - The plant from which cellulosic linen fiber is obtained. Linen is used in apparel, accessories, draperies, upholstery, tablecloths, and towels.
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Flax - A natural vegetable fiber that is soft, lustrous, and flexible. It is stronger than cotton fiber but less elastic. The best grades are used for linen fabrics, such as damasks, lace, and sheeting while coarser grades are used to manufacture twine and rope.
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Fleece - The wool shorn from any sheep, or from any animal in the wool category.
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Fleece Fabric - A lightweight fabric with a thick, heavy fleece-like surface. It
may be a pile or napped fabric, or either woven or knit
construction. End uses include coats, jackets, blankets, etc.
Fleece fabrics are available in a variety of constuctions: 1)
Polarfleece® is the original fleece fabric, developed in 1979,
by Malden Mills. It is typically used for non-technical
garments, and it is only available at Malden Mills®; 2)
Polartec®, also developed by Malden Mills, was created for
today's high-performance technical garments, which
provides enhanced durability warmth, wind resistance,
breathability and weather protection.
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Floating Policy - A marine insurance policy that applies to all shipments made by an exporter over a period of time rather than to one shipment only.
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Flocking - A type of raised decoration applied to the surface of a fabric in which an adhesive is printed on the fabric in a specific pattern, and then finely chopped fibers are applied by means of dusting, air-brushing, or electrostatic charges. The fibers adhere only to the areas where the adhesive has been applied, and the excess fibers are removed by mechanical means.
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Fluorocarbon-free (FC-free) - A textile technology or finish in which the fabric has free
repellants and membranes for outdoor clothing.
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Foamback - A fabric which has been laminated to a polyurethane foam backing.
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Focused Assessment Program (FAP) - A risk based approach to audit. Focused Assessment Program documents are used by U.S Customs and Border Patrol (CBP) regulatory auditors when conducting focused assessments. These documents contain the audit program and provide guidance for importers.
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Food and Drug Administration (FDA) - The FDA was established by the U.S. Government in 1930, as part of the US Department of Health and Human Services (HHS), to regulate applicable products.
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Force Majeure - The title of a standard clause in marine contracts exempting the parties for non-fulfillment of their obligations as a result of conditions beyond their control, such as earthquakes, floods, or war.
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Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) - An investment that is made to acquire a lasting interest in an enterprise operating in an economy other than that of the investor; the investor's purpose is to have an effective voice in the management of the enterprise.
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Foreign Exchange - The currency or credit instruments of a foreign country, and transactions involving purchase or sale of currencies.
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Foreign Freight Forwarder - An independent business that handles export shipments for compensation. A freight forwarder is among the best sources of information and assistance on U.S. export regulations and documentation, shipping methods, and foreign import regulations.
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Foreign Sales Agent - An individual or firm that serves as the foreign representative of a domestic supplier and seeks sales abroad for the supplier.
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Foreign Sales Corporation - The predecessor of the Foreign Sales Corporation is now referred to as (DISC) Domestic International Sales Corporation. DISC took on a new definition as a result of the 1984 Tax Reform Act, and can now provide a tax deferral on up to $10 million of exports so long as the funds remain in export-related investments.
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Foreign Trade Zone Act (FTZA) - The act which established foreign trade zones in the USA.
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Foreign-Trade Zones Board (FTZB) - A foreign-trade zone is a designated site licensed by the Foreign-Trade Zones (FTZ) Board at which special customs procedures may be used. These procedures allow domestic activity involving foreign items to take place prior to formal customs entry. Duty-free treatment is then accorded items that are re-exported and duty payment is deferred on items sold in the U.S. market. This offsets customs advantages available to overseas producers who compete with producers located in the United States. FTZ sites and facilities are within the jurisdiction of local, state or federal governments or agencies.
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Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) - Created in 1993 and headquartered in Bonn, Germany, the FSC is a non-profit, independent organization dedicated to encouraging the responsible handling of the forests in the world.
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Fossel Fuel - Fossil fuel is a generic term that is used for non-renewable
fuels such as coal and its byproducts, natural and derived gas,
crude oil, and petroleum materials. The term refers to the fact
that they are made up of decomposed, buried carbon-based
organisms that died millions of years ago. Fossil fuels are used
to produce energy. Their supply is limited, and they will
eventually run out.
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Foul Bill of Lading - A receipt for goods issued by a carrier with an indication that the goods were damaged when received.
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Foulard - A lightweight twill-weave fabric, made from filament yarns like silk, acetate, polyester, with a small all-over print pattern on a solid background. The fabric is often used in men's ties.
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Four-way Stretch - A fabric that stretches both on the crosswise and lengthwise grains of the fabric. It is the same as two-way stretch.
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Free Alongside Ship (FAS) - A pricing term indicating that the quoted price includes the cost of delivering the goods alongside a designated vessel.
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Free Carrier (FCA) - Replaces the former term “FOB named inland port” to designate the seller’s responsibility for the cost of loading goods at the named shipping point. It may be used for multimodal transport, container stations, and any mode of transport, including air.
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Free In (FI) - A pricing term indicating that the charterer of a vessel is responsible for the cost of loading and unloading goods from the vessel.
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Free on board (FOB) - A pricing term indicating that the quoted price covers all expenses up to and including delivery of goods upon an overseas vessel provided by or for the buyer.
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Free Out (FO) - A pricing term indicating that the charterer of a vessel is responsible for the cost of loading goods from the vessel.
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Free Port - An area such as a port city, into which merchandise may legally be moved without payment of duties.
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Free Trade Agreement of the Americas (FTAA) - An agreement between two or more countries within North and South America to eliminate tariff and non-tariff barriers affecting trade among themselves. Each participating country applies its own independent schedule of tariffs to imports from countries that are not members.
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Free Trade Area (FTA) - A designated group of countries that have agreed to eliminate tariffs, quotas, and preferences on most goods and services between them. Members of a free trade area do not have the same policies with respect to non-members, which results in different quotas and customs. As an example, the United States is currently involved in a free trade agreement with Mexico and Canada, known as NAFTA (North American Free Trade Agreement).
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Free Trade Area (FTA) - A designated group of countries that have agreed to eliminate tariffs, quotas, and preferences on most goods and services between them. Members of a free trade area do not have the same policies with respect to non-members, which results in different quotas and customs. As an example, the United States is currently involved in a free trade agreement with Mexico and Canada, known as NAFTA (North American Free Trade Agreement).
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Free-Trade Zone - A port designated by the government of a country for duty-free entry of any non-prohibited goods. Merchandise may be stored, displayed, used for manufacturing, etc., within the zone and re-exported without duties being paid. Duties are imposed on the merchandise (or items manufactured from the merchandise) only when the goods pass from the zone into an area of the country subject to the customs authority.
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Freight Forwarder - An independent business that handles export shipments for compensation. A freight forwarder is among the best sources of information and assistance on U.S. export regulations and documentation, shipping methods, and foreign import regulations.
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Front(stitched down) - A front the has a double-turned hem that is stiched down full length of the front. The term may also refer to the shell (outside) front of self-goods.
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Fulfillment Warehouse - A warehouse where a product is warehoused, inventoried, packed, and shipped by a company in fulfillment outsourcing.
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Full-cut - Not tapered.
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Fungicide - Kills fungi.
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Fungistat - Inhibits fungal growth.
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Fustic - Refers to a type of tree common in either India and Africa, or
Europe and Asia; the former is known as “Old Fustic” and
produces a yellow dye. The latter is known as “Young Fustic”
which creates a brown dye. See also "Natural Dyes".
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FutureFashion - An initiative of Earth Pledge, FutureFashion helps the fashion and home furnishing industries make the transition to sustainable materials. The initiative provides guidance to designers, manufacturers and distributors to help them transition to sustainable materials and methods.
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G-20 Group - The G-20+ Group, led by Brazil, brought together the developing countries of the Cairns Group with India, China, Egypt, Indonesia and Nigeria. This group represents most of the world’s population. The G-20 goes even further than the Cairns group in its demands on the industrialized countries to liberalize, while making fewer demands on the developing countries.
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Gabardine - A tightly woven, twilled, worsted fabric with a slight diagonal line on the right side. Wool gabardine is known as a year-round fabric for business suiting. Polyester, cotton, rayon, and various blends are also used in making gabardine.
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Gauge - A measurement most commonly associated with knitting equipment. It can mean the number of needles per inch in a knitting machine. However, in full fashioned hosiery and sweater machines, the number of needles per 1-1/2 inches represents the gauge.
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Gauze - A thin, sheer plain-weave fabric made from cotton, wool, silk, rayon, or other manufactured fibers. End-uses include curtains, apparel, trimmings, and surgical dressings.
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General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT) - A multilateral treaty signed in 1947 with the intent to help reduce trade barriers between signatory countries and to promote trade through tariff concessions. The workings of the GATT agreement are the responsibility of the Council for Trade in Goods, which is made up of representatives from all WTO member countries. GATT membership now includes more than 110 countries.
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General Export License - Any of various export licenses covering export commodities for which (IVEL) Individually Validated Export Licenses are not required. No formal application or written authorization is needed to ship exports under a general export license.
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Generalized System of Preferences (GSP) - A system approved by GATT in 1971 that authorizes developed countries to give preferential tariff treatment to developing countries to encourage their economic growth. EU member countries cannot be described as GSP beneficiaries.
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Geo-Engineering - Also referred to as negative emission technologies, geo-
engineering can manipulate the environment on a large scale
to offset the impacts of climate change. It does so by removing
carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, managing solar radiation,
and modifying weather. An example of a geoengineering
technique is spraying aerosol over oceans to brighten the
clouds and reflect more sunlight away before the water
absorbs it.
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Georgette - A sheer lightweight fabric, often made of silk or from such manufactured fibers as polyester, with a crepe surface, in which yarns are twisted both ways in the weave. End-uses include dresses and blouses.
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Geotextiles - Manufactured fiber materials made into a variety of fabric constructions, and used in a variety civil engineering applications.
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Geothermal Power - Energy that is generated by heat stored in the earth, or the collection of absorbed heat derived from within the earth, in the atmosphere, and from the oceans. Currently, the U.S. produces the greatest amount of geothermal energy in the world. As a renewable energy source, it is extremely price competitive and reduces the reliance on fossil fuels and their price unpredictability.
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Gingham - A medium weight, plain weave fabric with a dyed yarns in both warp and filling to achieve a plaid or check pattern. End-uses include dresses, shirts, and curtains.
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Glass Fiber - An inorganic fiber which is very strong, but has poor flexibility and poor abrasion resistance. Glass will not burn and will not conduct electricity. It is impervious to insects, mildew, and sunlight. Today, the primary use of glass fiber is in such industrial applications as insulation or reinforcement of composite structures.
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Global Congress on Combating Counterfeiting (GCCC) - The purpose of the congress is to develop a collective understanding of the extent of the counterfeit and piracy problem, identify effective measures of governments and the private sector in anti-counterfeiting and anti-piracy work, generate ideas for further co-operation, and begin to identify solutions that will make a real difference in the coming decade.
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Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) - Launched by representatives of organic cotton producers, the textile industry, and consumers in 2002, GOTS was instituted in order to unify organic standards within the industry, allowing manufacturers to market their products to different countries under a single certification that is acceptable in all major markets of the world. Prior to the launch of GOTS, numerous standards existed in the niche market of organic textiles, causing confusion among producers, retailers and consumers.
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Global Pulse Study - Conducted by the Reputation Institute, it is the largest study of corporate reputation in the world, annually measuring over 1,000 companies in 27 countries. It is intended to identify the companies with the “best corporate reputations”. In 2008, more than 200 U.S. companies were measured.
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Gorge - The break between the collar and the lapel.
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Green Brands - Brands that consumers associate with environmental conservation and sustainable business practices. Typically when marketing a ‘green’ product, companies will use environmentally friendly, recycled and/or recyclable material, or reduce excess packaging.
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Green Hydrogen - Hydrogen is a universal, highly reactive fuel that can be used
to generate electricity, power vehicles, heat homes, and more.
Green hydrogen is the product of electrolysis, an
environmentally friendly chemical process that uses an
electrical current to separate hydrogen from oxygen in water.
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Green Living Lifestyle, Inc. - Located in Beverly Hills, California, this company provides green living and lifestyle solutions for both home and work environments. Their experts make planet friendly services and products accessible to the consumer. Comprehensive services range from finding the perfect non-toxic and environmentally friendly cleaning solution for a client with allergies, to project managing the construction of a healthy and energy efficient home or office, as well as implementing a green program for an entire corporation, production or event.
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Green vs. Sustainability - Green refers to all facets of being environmentally friendly,
from the activist movement itself to fashion, furniture, and
buildings. Sustainability goes one step beyond the
environment and is also concerned with health, economic, and
social equity.
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Greenhouse Effect - Caused when greenhouse gases trap radiation released by the Earth’s surface, raising the temperature of the Earth’s lower atmosphere and surface. It is a natural process that regulates the temperature of the Earth. In the last 200 years, humans have released much higher quantities of greenhouse gases (both natural and man-made), which is trapping more heat in the atmosphere and cited as the main driver of global warming.
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Greenhouse Gases (GHG) - Gases in the atmosphere that trap infrared heat energy trying
to escape into outside the earth’s atmosphere. This process
raises the temperature of the lower atmosphere and the
Earth’s surface in contact with it. Natural greenhouse gases
include water vapor (moisture), carbon dioxide, methane,
nitrous oxide and ozone. New man-made chemicals that are
being released into the atmosphere include CFCs
(chlorofluorocarbons), HCFCs (hydrochloro-fluoro-carbons)
and HFCs (hydro-fluoro-carbons).
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Greenopia - A Los Angeles service guide to green living. Their mission is to create a directory of eco-friendly retailers, services, and organizations. Not a paid directory, they have conducted extensive research on those listed in their guide. Companies cannot pay to be included and all those listed are included because they have meet Greenopia’s strict standards for eco-friendliness.
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Greenwashing - Greenwashing is the practice of making an unproven claim that
deceives consumers into believing that an organization's
products or services are environmentally friendly.
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Greige Goods - An unfinished fabric, just removed from a knitting machine or a loom, but have received no dry- or wet- finishing operations. Also called grey goods.
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Gross Domestic Product (GDP) - A measure of the market value of all goods and services produced within the boundaries of a nation. It excludes income from external enterprises or investments.
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Gross Weight - The full weight of a shipment, including goods and packaging. Compare Tare weight.
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Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) - The Gulf Cooperation Council, created in response to the outbreak of the Iran-Iraq war, established the Gulf Standards Organization in November 1982. The GCC seeks to strengthen cooperation (in areas such as agriculture, industry, investment, security, and trade) among its six members: Bahrain, Kuwait, Quatar, Oman, Saudi Arabia, and the United Arab Emirates.
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Hand - The way the fabric feels when it is touched. Terms like
softness, crispness, dryness, silkiness are all terms that
describe the hand of the fabric. A good hand refers to
shape retention without stiffness.
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Handwoven (Handloomed) - Fabrics which are woven on either the hand or hand-and-foot power loom.
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Harbor Maintenance Tax (HMT) - The tax is an ad valorem charge on exports, imports, other shipments, and passenger transportation involving use of a harbor.
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Harbor Privacy Agreement (HPA) - This agreement enables U.S. organizations complying with safe harbor framework to continue to receive personal data from Europe needed for their business operations.
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Hard Shell - A high-impact, abrasion-resistant outer fabric, which provides protection from the environment.
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Harmonized System (HS) - An international convention, implemented by the United States in 1989, for classifying imports and exports so that data from different countries are comparable. The United States adopted the Harmonized System as the basis of both its export classification system (Schedule B) and its import classification system
(HTS). The first six digits of the commodity numbers in chapters # 1 through # 97 of both the HTS and Schedule B are identical with respect to descriptions and codes.
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Harmonized Tariff Schedule (HTS) - Same as (HS) Harmonized System. It classifies imports and exports so that data from different countries are comparable.
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Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States (HTSUS) - The duty that is assigned is determined by the value and the country of origin of the goods or products being imported.
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Heat Set Finish (Heat Sealing) - A process of heat finishing that will stabilize many manufactured fiber fabrics in order that there will not be any subsequent change in shape or size. Heat setting is used to permanently impart a crease, a pleat, or durability into a fabric or garment---a finish that will remain through repeated washings and dry cleanings.
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Heather - A yarn that is spun using pre-dyed fibers. These fibers are blended together to give a particular look. (For example, black and white may be blended together to create a grey heathered yarn.) The term, heather, may also be used to describe the fabric made from heathered yarns.
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Heather Mixture or Blend - Combinations of colors, stock-dyed to provide a mottled or melange type of yarn in woolens such as homespun, tweed, cheviot, shetland, etc.
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Heavy Weight - Also called expedition weight. Most often use din base layers. Thick and warm, it is usually brushed on the inside for warmth and wicking, and smooth on the outside to protect.
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Hem (clean) - The double fold of fabric secured with a row of stitching with
the raw edge of the fabric buried within the fold.
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Hem (raw) - A single fold of fabric secured with a row of stitching, leaving
the raw edge of the fabric exposed.
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Hemp - A course fiber made from the inner bark (bast fiber) of the hemp plant used primarily in twines and cordages, and most recently apparel. Grown naturally without pesticides, it is one of the strongest sustainable fibers and is excellent for moisture absorption, anti-bacterial properties and ventilation. Hemp is popular for macramé jewelry, cloth and diapers. Growing hemp in the United States is legal, but producers are required to obtain a special permit through the U.S. Drug Enforcement Administration.
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Herringbone (Herringbone Twill) - A variation on the twill weave construction in which the twill
is reversed, or broken, at regular intervals, producing a zig-
zag effect.
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Hi-Visibility Fabrics - A type of fabric used to make personal protective equipment
(PPE), which has highly reflective properties or is a color that
is easily seen in any background.
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High Loft - A term given to a fiber structure that contains more air then fiber. It is a lofty, low-density material that is used in such applications as fiberfill, insulation, etc.
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High Tenacity - This is a fiber property that measures strength. The property
is determined by the force required to rupture of break the
fiber. Typically, this is measure is grams per denier (g/d).
Tensile strength measres textile strength, measured in
pounds per square inch to break a fabric.
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High Visability Fabrics - Fabrics that contain fluorescent materials in order to make the wearer visible in dim and dark lights. These fabrics have the ability to reflect on-coming lights, which cause them to glow in the dark.
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High-density polyethylene (HDPE) or polyethylene high-density (PEHD) - This thermoplastic polymer is produced from the monomer
ethylene. With a high strength-to-density ratio, HDPE is used
in the production of plastic bottles, corrosion-resistant piping,
geomembranes and plastic lumber. HDPE is commonly
recycled, and has the number "2" as its resin identification
code.
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Hollow Fiber - Manufactured fiber made with a hollow center.
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Hollow Filament Fibers - Manufactured, continuous filament fibers that have a center void, which has been created through the introduction of air or other gas in the polymer solution, or by melt spinning through specially designed spinnerets during production.
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Homeland Secure Data Network (HSDN) - The U.S. Government’s HSDN will provide DHS officials with a modern information technology infrastructure for securely communicating classified information. The HSDN will significantly enhance the department’s capability to interact with other classified networks while eliminating dependence on external networks. When completed, the HSDN will be a private, certified, and accredited network that will fully support the mission goals of the department.
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Hopsacking - Popular woolen or worsted suiting fabric made from a 2-
and-2 or 3-and-3 basket weave.
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Horsehair - The long and lustrous hair taken from the mane and tail of
horses. One of the most common uses is in blends with
other fibers for hair canvas interfacings.
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Hot Head Press - A type of pressing machine especially designed for
processing durable press garments. It generates heat
between 350-460 degrees F, with a pressure to six tons at
the head, and is generally equipped with precision automatic
controls.
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Houndstooth Check - A variation on the twill weave construction in which a broken
check effect is produced by a variation in the pattern of
interlacing yarns, utilizing at least two different colored
yarns. This check pattern is often used in clear-finished
worsted, woolen dress goods, etc.
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Hydrofluorocarbon (HFC) - Any of several organic compounds composed of hydrogen,
fluorine, and carbon. HFCs are produced synthetically and are
used primarily as refrigerants. They became widely used for
this purpose beginning in the late 1980s, with the introduction
of the Montreal Protocol, which phased out the use of
chemicals such as halons and chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) that
contribute to the depletion of Earth’s ozone layer. However,
while HFCs have an ozone depletion potential of zero, they are
potent greenhouse gases, and thus their manufacture and use
became increasingly regulated in the 21st century.
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Hydrophilic - Having a strong affinity for water; attracting, dissolving in or absorbing water.
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Hydrophilic Fibers - Fibers that absorb water easily, take longer to dry, and
require more ironing. These fibers denote a finish that
improves wearing comfort.
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Hydrophobic - Lacking the ability to absorb water. Denote a finish normally applied to create water-repellent products.
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Hydrophobic Fibers - Fibers that lack the ability to absorb water. These fibers
denote a finish normally applied to create water-repellent
products.
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Illuminated Fabrics - Fabrics that are integrated with LED fibers or phosphorescent
materials, these fabrics can light up and are used in fashion,
safety wear, and decor.
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Impact Absorption - The ability of a textile or polymer material to provide
cushioning and provide protection by absorbing the energy
of a sudden impulse or shock to the wearer of the material.
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Import license - A document required and issued by some national governments authorizing the importation of goods into their individual countries.
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Importer of Record - The importer is legally liable for payment of duties, taxes & fees and compliance with customs and other government agency regulations pertaining to their imports. This may be the party who is buying or receiving the imported goods, or an interested party in the transaction who has the right to take entry under the customs regulations.
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Importer Self Assessment (ISA) - A voluntary approach to trade compliance. The CBP’s program provides the opportunity for importers who have made a commitment of resources to assume responsibility for monitoring their own compliance in exchange for benefits.
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In Bond - A procedure in the U.S. under which goods are transported, stored, or handled, prior to clearance and release by customs; the government's interest is secured by indemnity bonds.
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Indigo - A dye with a distinctive blue color. The chemical compound
that constitutes the indigo dye is called indigotin. Historically,
indigo played an important role in many countries' economies
because natural blue dyes are rare. Among other uses, it is
used in the production of denim cloth for blue jeans.
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Individually Validated Export License - Requires a document issued by the U.S. Government authorizing the export of specific commodities. This license is for a specific transaction or time period in which the exporting is to take place.
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Individually Validated Export Licenses (IVEL) - Documents issued by the U.S. Government authorizing the export of a specific commodity to a certain destination.
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Indoor Farming - Also referred to as vertical farming, this process requires less
land and water to grow more crops. The process continues to
advance with AI-powered vertical farms.
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Industrial Property - Industrial Property includes inventions, patents, trademarks, copyrights, industrial designs, and geographical indications.
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Infusion Technology - An infused polymer construction process that reinforces the fabric of outerwear garments in the places where they take the most abuse: zipper and pocket flaps, and other high-abrasion areas. The technology blends polymers, penetrates deep into the inner fibers, and surrounds them to form a permanent bond. this tough, resilient matrix ensures a highly wear-resistant surface while allowing the fabric to remain lightweight and flexible. The infused polymer process eliminates the need for heavier-weight abrasion overlays, tapes anhd bindings, and adds increased strength to the most crucial points on the garment, which dramatically extends the life of the garment.
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Inland Bill of Lading - A bill of lading used in transporting goods overland to the exporter’s international carrier. Although a Through Bill of Lading can sometimes be used, it is usually necessary to prepare both an Inland Bill of Lading and an Ocean Bill of Lading for export shipments.
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Inseam - The distance from the bottom of a trouser leg to the crotch. The measurement is taken along the inside leg seam that joins the front and the back leg panels.
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Insulation - With respect to a fabric, a material that protects from the loss of warmth or the penetration of cold.
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Insurance Certificate - A document issued by the shipper under an open marine insurance policy for coverage of a particular shipment of merchandise.
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Intellectual Property Rights (IPR) - The rights given to persons over their creations. They usually give the creator an exclusive right over the use of his/her creation for a
certain period of time. Intellectual property rights are customarily divided into two main areas: Copyrights and Industrial Property.
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Interfacing - Fabrics used to support, reinforce and give shape to fashion
fabrics in sewn products. Often placed between the lining
and the outer fabric., it can be made from yarns or directly
from fibers, and may be either woven, nonwoven, or knitted.
Some interfacings are designed to be fused (adhered with
heat from an iron), while others are meant to be stitched to
the fashion fabric.
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Interlining - 1. An insulation, padding, or stiffening fabric, either sewn to
the wrong side of the lining or the inner side of the outer
shell fabric for extra weight and warmth. The interlining is
used primarily to provide warmth in coats, jackets, and
outerwear. 2. Firm stiff linen canvas for men's coats.
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Interlock - A special type of eight-lock knit cloth. The stitch variation of
the rib stitch, which generally resembles a double 1 x 1
ribbed fabric that is interknitted with crossed sinker wales.
Plain (double knit) interlock stitch fabrics are thicker,
heavier, and more stable than single knit constructions. The
fabric has a smooth surface on both sides, and possesses
good wearing qualities.
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International Freight Forwarder - An independent business that handles export shipments for compensation. A freight forwarder is among the best sources of information and assistance on U.S. export regulations and documentation, shipping methods, and foreign import regulations.
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International Labor Organization (ILO) - The ILO formulates international labor standards in the form of Conventions and Recommendations setting minimum standards of basic labor rights: freedom of association, the right to organize, collective bargaining, abolition of forced labor, equality of opportunity and treatment, and other standards regulating conditions across the entire spectrum of work related issues.
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International Maritime Organization (IMO) - Provides the mechanism for cooperation among governments in the field of governmental regulation and practices relating to technical matters of all kinds affecting shipping engaged in international trade. It also encourages and facilitates the general adoption of the highest practicable standards in matters concerning maritime safety, efficiency of navigation, and prevention and control of marine pollution from ships.
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International Monetary Fund (IMF) - The IMF, established in December 1945, promotes international monetary harmony, monitors the exchange rate and monetary policies of member nations, and provides credit for member countries which experience temporary balance of payments deficits. The IMF, funded through members' quotas, may supplement resources through borrowing. IMF membership is approximately 175 countries.
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International Program on the Elimination of Child Labor (IPEC) - IPEC’s aim is to work towards the progressive elimination of child labor by strengthening national capacities to address child labor problems, and by creating a worldwide movement to combat it.
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International Ship and Port Facility Security (ISPS) - This code aims to provide a standardized, consistent framework for evaluating risk, enabling governments to offset changes in threat with changes in vulnerability for ships and port facilities. It contains detailed, mandatory security-related requirements for governments, port authorities, and shipping companies.
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International Trade Commission (ITC) - An independent, nonpartisan, quasi-judicial U.S. federal agency that provides trade expertise to both the legislative and executive branches of government, determines the impact of imports on U.S. industries, and directs actions against certain unfair trade practices, such as patent, trademark, and copyright infringement.
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Irrevocable Letter of Credit - A letter of credit in which the specified payment is guaranteed by the bank if all terms and conditions are met by the drawee.
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ISO 14001 Certification - ISO 14001 is an internationally agreed upon and recognized
standard for Environmental Management Systems. It applies to
all types and sizes of organizations, including public and
private sector and non-profit.
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ISO 26000 Guidance - ISO 2600 is defined as an international standard developed to
help organizations assess and address their social
responsibilities. It is designed to serve as guidance and is not
a certification.
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Jacquard - Woven fabrics manufactured by using the Jacquard
attachment on the loom. This attachment provides intricate
versatility in designs and permits individual control of each
of the warp yarns. Thus, fabrics of almost any type or
complexity can be made. Brocade and damask are types of
jacquard woven fabrics.
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Jacquard Knit - A weft double knit fabric in which a Jacquard type of mechanism is used. This device individually controls needles or small groups of needles, and allows very complex and highly patterned knits to be created.
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Jersey Fabric - The consistent interlooping of yarns in the jersey stitch to produces a fabric with a smooth, flat face, and a more textured, but uniform back. Jersey fabrics may be produced on either circular or flat weft knitting machines.
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Jersey Stitch - A basic stitch used in weft knitting, in which each loop formed in the knit is identical. The jersey stitch is also called the plain, felt, or stockinet stitch.
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Joint Implementation - A flexibility mechanism set forth in the Kyoto Protocol that helps nations meet their greenhouse gas emissions reduction targets. It allows industrialized nations to invest in emissions reduction projects in other industrialized nations as an alternative to reducing emissions domestically.
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Jute - A coarse, brown fiber from the stalk of a bast plant. Chiefly
from India, this fiber is used primarily for gunny sacks, bags,
cordage, and binding threads in carpets and rugs.
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Jute - A vegetable fiber produced primarily from the plant material cellulose and wood fiber lignin (partially textile and partially wood). It is 100% bio-degradable and one of the cheapest fibers. It is the second-most important vegetable fiber, after cotton, in terms of usage and availability. Off-white to brown in color, it accepts cellulosic dyes.
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Kapok - A short, lightweight, cotton-like, vegetable fiber found in the seed pods of the Bombocaceae tree. Because of its brittle quality, it is generally not spun. However, its buoyancy and moisture resistance makes it ideal for use in cushions, mattresses, and life jackets.
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Kenaf - A plant native to south Asia that has similar properties to jute. The stems produce two types of fiber, a coarser fiber in the outer layer (bast fiber), and a finer fiber in the core. The main uses of kenaf fiber have been rope, twine, coarse cloth (similar to that made from jute), and paper. See also "Natural Vegetable Fibers".
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Knit Fabric - Fabrics made from only one set of yarns, all running in the
same direction. Some knits have their yarns running along
the length of the fabric, while others have their yarns running
across the width of the fabric. Knit fabrics are held together
by looping the yarns around each other. Knitting creates
ridges in the resulting fabric. Wales are the ridges that run
lengthwise in the fabric; courses run crosswise.
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Knit-de-knit - A type of yarn texturizing in which a crimped yarn is made by knitting the yarn into a fabric, and then heat-setting the fabric. The yarn is then unraveled from the fabric and used in this permanently crinkled form.
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Knitting - The art and science of constructing fabric by interlooping of
yarn loops, through the use of needles and a "loop within a
loop". The most essential unit in a knit fabric is the loop or
stitch. A vertical row of stitches is called a WALE; the
horizontal or crosswise row of stitches is known as a
COURSE. The number of wales per inch, measured across the
fabric depends on the count or size of the yarn used, and
the number of needles per inch in the machine. The two
major classes of knitting are warp and weft.
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Knitting (Circular) - A weft knitting process where the fabric is a tube,.with the
threads running continuously around the fabric. Double-
knit fabrics are produced on a circular knitting machine
equipped with two sets of latch needles situated at right
angles to each other.
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Knitting (Flat or Single) - A weft knitting process where the fabric is in flat form. The
threads run back and forth across the fabric. Shape can be
added in the knitting process by increasing or decreasing the
loops or stitches. Full-fashioned garments are made on a
flat-knitting machine. Also called plain knit, a fabric
constructed with one needle bed and one set of needles.
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Knitting (Raschel) - A versatile warp knitting made in plain and jacquard
patterns; the fabrics are coarser than other warp knits.
Raschel knitting machines have one or two sets of latch
needles and up to thirty sets of guides that enable them to
create a wide range of fabrics.
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Knitting (Warp) - A type of knitting in which the yarns generally run lengthwise
in the fabric. The yarns are prepared as warps on beams.
Examples of this type of knitting include tricot, Milanese, and
Raschel knitting.
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Knitting (Weft) - A type of knitting, in which one continuous thread runs
crosswise in the fabric making all of the loops in one course.
Weft knitting types are circular and flat knitting.
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Kumazasa Herb - This Japanese herb used to make a Japanese paper fiber that is completely natural, highly renewable without the use of chemicals, and does not require chemicals to process. It is used in the production of Sasawashi fabric. See also "Sasawashi".
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Kyoto Protocol - An international environmental treaty intended to achieve stabilization of greenhouse gas concentrations in the atmosphere. It establishes legally binding commitments for the reduction of six greenhouse gases (carbon dioxide, methane, nitrous oxide, sulfur hexafluoride, hydrofluorocarbons, and perfluorocarbons) produced by industrialized nations. Under the protocol, the nations have agreed to reduce their collective greenhouse gas emissions. There are “flexible mechanisms” that allow member economies to meet their emissions requirements, including Emissions Trading, the Clean Development Mechanism, and Joint Implementation. As of 2008, the United States has not yet ratified Kyoto Protocol stating that it is “fundamentally flawed” and “not the correct vehicle with which to produce real environmental solutions”. Since withdrawing from the protocol, the U.S. government has established separate environmental initiatives to address global climate change.
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Lac - Once used as a natural dye, this is a resinous substance secreted by the lac insect onto the twigs and branches of certain trees (typically fig). The dye is similar to cochineal and is commonly used in southeast Asia as a skin cosmetic and dye for silk and wool.
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Lace - The term comes from the old French, las, by way of Latin,
laquens, which means a noose, or to ensnare - rather well
adapted to lace. A single yarn can produce a plaited or
braided fabric or article since it will interlace, entwine, and
twist in several directions to produce a porous material or
lace
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Lamb's Wool - The first clip of wool sheered from lambs up to eight months
old. The wool is soft, slippery and resilient. It is used in fine
grade woolen fabrics.
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Lamé - A woven fabric using flat silver or gold metal threads to
create either the design or the background in the fabric.
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Laminate (nonwoven) - A nonwoven material laminate that incorporates two or more
layers of fabric, one of which is made from an essential
nonwoven component material.
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Laminated Fabric - A term used to describe fabrics which have been joined
together through the use of a high-strength reinforcing
scrim or base fabrics between two plies of flexible
thermoplastic film. It can a bonded utilizing either foam
itself, or some other material, such as adhesives, heat, or
chemical bonding agents, foam or thermoplastic resin. See
BONDING.
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Landfill - This is a site for the disposal of waste materials by burial and is the oldest form of waste treatment. Historically, landfills have been the most common methods of organized waste disposal and remain so in many places around the world.
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Lapel - The part of a garment that is turned back in the front. The
front fold on a shirt that is a continuation of the collar.
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Lapels (padding) - Attaching the lapel to canvas with several rows of blind-
stitching. Requires feed of cloth fullness in horizontal and
vertical planes.
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Laser technology - A textile treatment using laser machines to achieve a detailing or all-over effect in finishing a fabric, typically denim. The frequency of the laser is set to erode the indigo surface and alter the color or burn through. Exclusively used in the upper end of the denim market, laser technology is considered a more environmentally acceptable process than traditional denim finishing methods.
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Latent Heat - The quantity of heat absorbed or released by a substance undergoing a change of state, such as ice changing to water or water to steam, at constant temperature and pressure. When a solid material is heated and reaches its melting point, it goes from solid to liquid. During this process the material absorbs a certain amount of heat, Despite the heat input, the temperature of the material stays at a relatively constant level, even though phase change is taking place. We thus speak of latent (concealed) heat having been taken up by the material.
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Lawn - A light, fine cloth made using carded or combed, linen or cotton yarns. The fabric has a crease-resistant, crisp finish. Linen lawn is synonymous with handkerchief linen. Cotton lawn is a similar type of fabric, which can be white, solid colored, or printed.
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Left-hand twill - Any twill weave which runs from the left. The twill or
diagonal line on the face of the fabric will run from the
upper left-hand corner to the lower right-hand corner of the
fabric.
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Leight Weight - Having an airy weave. Used as a light weight base layer in apparel for aerobic activities and cool weather.
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Leno Weave (Doup) - A construction of woven fabrics in which the resulting fabric
is very sheer, yet durable. In this weave, two or more warp
yarns are twisted around each other as they are interlaced
with the filling yarns; thus securing a firm hold on the filling
yarn and preventing them from slipping out of position. The
yarns work in pairs; one is the standard warp yarn, the other
is the skeleton or doup yarn. Also called the gauze weave.
Leno weave fabrics are frequently used for window
treatments, because their structure gives good durability
with almost no yarn slippage, and permits the passage of
light and air.
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Less Developed/Least Developed Countries (LDC) - An unindustrialized, undeveloped, or developing nation, generally characterized by low per capita incomes, low literacy levels and medical standards, subsistence agriculture, and a lack of exploitable minerals and competitive industries. These countries have low prospect of rapid economic development in the foreseeable future and are likely to remain dependent upon official development assistance for many years.
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Letter of Credit (L/C) - A document, issued by a bank per instructions by a buyer of goods, authorizing the seller to draw a specified sum of money under specified terms, usually the receipt by the bank of certain document within a given time.
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Licensing - A business arrangement in which the manufacturer of a product (or a firm with proprietary rights over certain technology, trademarks, etc.) grants permission to some other group or individual to manufacture that product (or make use of that propriety material) in return for specified royalties or other payment.
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Lifcycle Assessment (LCA) - An LCA is a systematic analysis of products or services
throughout their entire lifecycle to check for the potential of
environmental impacts. Every part of the lifecycle is examined
from extraction of raw materials to production and what
happens to it at the end of life.
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Limestone - A sedimentary rock composed mostly of the mineral calcite and comprising about 15% of the Earth's sedimentary crust; can occur in many colors but is usually white, gray, or black. See also "Mineral Dyes".
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Linear Economy - An economy in which raw materials are extracted, turned into a
product, and discarded as waste. Many consider this to be our
current economy. (See also: Circular economy.)
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Linen - A fabric made from linen fibers obtained from inside the
woody stem of the flax plant. The term, linen, cannot be
used except for natural fiber flax. The fiber length ranges
from a few inches to one yard, with no fuzziness, does not
soil quickly, and has a natural luster and stiffness. Linen
fibers are much stronger and more lustrous than cotton.
Linen fabrics are very cool and absorbent, but wrinkle very
easily, unless blended with manufactured fibers. Linen is
one of the oldest textile fibers.
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Linen - A textile made from the fibers of the flax plant. It is labor intensive to manufacture, but when it is made into garments, it is valued for its exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather. Linen fabric is highly absorbent and a good conductor of heat, yet it remains cool to the touch. It is also the strongest of the vegetable fibers, with 2 to 3 times the strength of cotton. See also "Natural Vegetable Fibers".
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Lining - A fabric that is used to cover the inside of a garment to
provide a finished look. Generally, the lining is made of a
smooth lustrous fabric.
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Loft - High loft is thick and fluffy, low loft is thin and dense. The higher the loft, the better the insulation characteristic.
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Logwood - Logwood is the English name of both the dye and the tree from whose heartwood the dye comes. Preparation requires that the heartwood first be well cleaned of the surrounding sapwood and bark. Then it must be rasped or planed into shavings, which are "aged" through a mild fermentation process. The rich, dark wood is then dried and packaged to avoid deterioration by moisture. Typically, the dye colors can be violet, purple, silver, grey, or black.
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Loom - A machine used for weaving fabrics.
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Loom-Finished - Material sold in the same condition in which the goods came
from the loom---duck, webbing, canvas, burlap, etc.
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Low-Density Polyethylene (LDPE) - Low-density polyethylene (LDPE) is a thermoplastic made from
the monomer ethylene. It was the first grade of polyethylene,
produced in 1933. Its manufacture employs the same method
today. The EPA estimates 5.7% of LDPE (resin identification
code 4) is recycled in the United States. Despite competition
from more modern polymers, LDPE continues to be an
important plastic grade.
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Low-Impact Dyes - Dyes that bond chemically to fibers for stronger color fastness over conventional dyes. The dyeing process uses less water and generates less wastewater runoff and contamination.
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Lyocell Fiber - This fiber is made from the wood pulp cellulose of such hardwood trees as birch, oak, or eucalyptus, and is typically classified as a fiber cousin to rayon. Lyocell shares many properties with other cellulosic fibers such as cotton, linen, ramie and rayon. Some main characteristics of lyocell fibers are that it is soft, absorbent, very strong when wet or dry, and resistant to wrinkles; it can be machine- or hand-washed or drycleaned, it drapes well, and it can be dyed many colors, as well as simulating a variety of textures like suede, leather, or silk. In the United States, it is manufactured by Lenzing, Inc. and marketed under the trademarked brand name Tencel®.
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Madder - A type of plant known for its climbing herbs and shrubs native to Africa, temperate Asia and North America. It has been used since ancient times as a vegetable red dye for leather, wool, cotton and silk. For dye production, the roots are harvested in the first year. The outer brown layer gives the common variety of the dye, the lower yellow layer the refined variety. See also "Natural Dyes".
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Madras - One of the oldest staples in the cotton trade, a lightweight
plain weave cotton fabric with a striped, plaid, or checked
pattern. A true madras will bleed when washed. This type of
fabric is usually imported from India. End-uses are men's
and women's shirts and dresses.
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Malachite - This very popular semi-precious stone is named for the Greek word for "mallow", a green herb. The color is dark green. See also "Mineral Dyes".
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Manganese - Manganese is a gray-white metal, resembling iron. It is hard and very brittle. The color is a metallic silver to black. See also "Mineral Dyes".
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Manifest - An instrument in writing, signed by the captain of a ship that lists the individual shipments constituting the ships cargo.
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Manila - A type of fiber obtained from the leaves of the abacá, a relative of the banana. It is mostly used for pulping for a range of uses, including specialty papers and once used mainly to make Manila rope. Manila envelopes and Manila papers take their name from this fiber. See also "Natural Vegetable Fibers".
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Manufacturers Identification Code (MID) - A code identifying the manufacturer. The MID is to be constructed from the name and address of the entity performing the origin-conferring operations, according to the applicable rules of origin.
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Maquiladoras - Primarily foreign-owned assembly plants in Mexico. Foreign companies who have established manufacturing operations in Mexico to take advantage of the relatively inexpensive cost of Mexican labor.
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Marine Insurance - Insurance that compensates the owners of goods transported overseas in the event of loss that cannot be legally recovered from the carrier. Also covers air shipments.
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Market Disruption - : A situation where a surge of imports of a certain product causes a sharp decline in the domestic sales of that product, and creates a hardship for domestic producers.
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Market Economy - An economic system where resources are allocated and production of goods determined by market forces rather than by government decree.
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Marking (or Marks) - Letters, numbers, and other symbols placed on cargo packages to facilitate identification.
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Matelassé - A medium to heavyweight luxury fabric made in a double cloth construction to create a blistered or quilted surface. Common end-uses are upholstery, draperies, and evening dresses.
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Melton - A heavily felted, hard, plain face-finished cloth used for
overcoatings, uniform fabrics, hunting cloth, and riding
habits. Light melton is the fabric used asunder-collar cloth
in coatings.
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Membrane - A thin, soft material made from a polymer which is laminated to the fabric to provide properties such as strength, water-proofing or wind-proofing to enhance the fabric?s performance.
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Mercerization - A process of treating a cotton yarn or fabric, in which the
fabric or yarn is immersed in a caustic soda solution and
later neutralized in acid. The process causes a permanent
swelling of the fiber, resulting in an increased luster on the
surface of the fabric, an increased affinity for dyes, and
increased strength.
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Mercosur - A South American trade bloc made up of members from Mexico, Venezuela, Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay, and Uruguay. Member countries of Mercosur maintain a common external tariff and agree to reduce barriers to trade amongst themselves and their associate members (which also include Chile, Peru, and Bolivia), to further open their markets in return for preferential access to full members’ markets.
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Merino - A type of wool that originates from pure-bred Merino sheep.
The best Merino wool comes from Italy. The highest, finest
and best wool obtained anywhere in the world. This fiber is
used only in the best of woolen and worsted fabrics, billiard
cloth, etc.
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Mesh - A type of fabric characterized by its net-like open appearance, and the spaces between the yarns. Mesh is available in a variety of constructions including wovens, knits, laces, or crocheted fabrics.
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Metallic - An inorganic fiber made from minerals and metals, blended and extruded to form fibers. The fiber is formed from a flat ribbon of metal, coated with a protective layer of plastic, which reduces tarnishing. Metal used in apparel fabric is purely decorative.
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Methane - Methane is a highly flammable gas made up of carbon and
hydrogen. Methane enters the atmosphere by both natural and
human related activities. It has been cited as a potent
greenhouse gas causing climate change.
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Micro-encapsulation - A method of enclosing polymer additive materials in microscopic capsules, which can then be released under certain conditions to enhance performance properties.
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Microclimate - The temperature and humidity of the space between your skin and the base layer of clothing.
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Microdeniers - One of the most important developments in spinning man-
made fibers is the technology of microdeniers where
continuous filament fibers emerge from a spinnerette less
than one denier per filament in weight. This makes polyester,
nylon, acrylic, or rayon, thinner than a silk-worm's web,
which is one denier per filament. by comparison, a human
hair is generally 2 to 4 deniers per filament. These superfine
fibers have made a striking impact on fashion around the
world in dress, sportswear, intimate apparel and activewear
fabrics.
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Microfibers/Microdeniers - The name given to ultra-fine manufactured fibers and the name given to the technology of developing these fibers. Fibers made using microfiber technology, produce fibers which weigh less than 1.0 denier. The fabrics made from these extra-fine fibers provide a superior hand, a gentle drape, and incredible softness. Comparatively, microfibers are two times finer than silk, three times finer than cotton, eight times finer than wool, and one hundred times finer than a human hair. Currently, there are four types of microfibers being produced. These include acrylic microfibers, nylon microfibers, polyester microfibers, and rayon microfibers.
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Microfleece - A soft, luxorous fabric with a velvety feel.
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Micron - A unit of measure that describes the average staple fiber diameter in a lot of wool. Over he past 30 years, the Micron measurement has evolved to become the predominant term used commercially to describe the fineness of a wool fiber. A Micron is determined by the actual measurement when the wool lots are tested for sale during wool processing. Most wool fibers range in the area of 18-40 micron. Merino wool falls into the 18-24 micron range. The 25-32 micron, medium range wool, is usually defined by the word "Shetland", and is used in such applications as blankets and knitwear apparel. The 33-40 range Micron usually describes the wool most often used in the carpet industry.
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Microporous - A coating on a fabric that breathes through microscopic pores.
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Middle Weight - A weave that is tighter than lightweight, which combines warmth and wickability.
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Mineral Dyes - A natural dyestuff made from minerals, including ocher, limestone, manganese, cinnabar, azurite, and malachite.
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Minimum Care - Requiring normal home laundering methods and light
ironing to produce satisfactory results.
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Modacrylic Fiber - A manufactured fiber similar to acrylic in characteristics and end-uses. Modacrylics have a higher resistance to chemicals and combustion than acrylic, but also have a lower safe ironing temperature and a higher specific gravity than acrylic.
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Mohair - The long, lustrous and strong hair fibers from the Angora
goat. End-uses include sweaters, coats, suits, and scarves.
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Moiré/Watermarked - A corded fabric, usually made from silk or one of the
manufactured fibers, which has a distinctive water-marked
wavy pattern on the face of the fabric where bright-and-dim
effects are observed.
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Moisture Management - See Wicking.
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Moisture Regain - The amount of water a completely dry fiber will absorb from the air at a standard condition of 70 degrees F and a relative humidity of 65%. Expressed as a % of the dry fiber weight.
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Moisture Transport - The movement of water from one side of a fabric to the other, caused by capillary action, wicking, chemical or electrostatic action.
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Monk's Cloth - A heavy weight cotton fabric utilizing the basket weave variation of the plain weave. Used for draperies and slip covers, monk's cloth is an example of 4 x 4 basket weave. It has poor dimensional stability and tends to snag.
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Monofilament - A single filament of a manufactured fiber, usually made in a denier higher than 14. Monofilaments are usually spun singularly, rather than extruded as a group of filaments through a spinneret and spun into a yarn. End-uses include hosiery and sewing thread.
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Monofilament - Any single filament, generally a coarser manufactured fiber. Monofilaments are generally spun individually, rather than being extruded through the spinneret in groups of filaments. Cross-sections may be of various shapes.
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Mordant - A substance that fixes a dye in and on textiles or leather by combining with the dye to form a stable insoluble compound.
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Multi-Fiber Agreements (MFA) - The objective of these agreements was to reconcile the interests of textile-exporting and textile-importing countries by permitting an orderly expansion of trade while avoiding market disruption. The MFA allowed an importing signatory country to apply quantitative restrictions on textile imports when it considered such restrictions necessary to prevent market disruption. MFA rules provided that quantitative restrictions should not reduce imports to levels below those attained during the preceding year, and should, if continued, permit trade to expand by specified percentages.
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Multilateral Trade Negotiations - Negotiations on multilateral trade policy reforms began in Geneva in 2000 under the auspices of the World Trade Organization (WTO). These talks are part of ongoing international efforts to obtain economic benefits for a more open market.
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Munjeet - A dye obtained from the roots of an herb plant grown in India; it is also known as Indian Madder. It produces a range of colors, from brick red to bright orange, and burgundy. See also "Natural Dyes".
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Muslin - An inexpensive, medium weight, plain weave, low count (less than 160 threads per square inch) cotton sheeting fabric. In its unfinished form, it is commonly used in fashion design to make trial garments for preliminary fit.
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Mylar - A polyester film used to cover a metallic yarn.
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Nainsook - A lightweight plain weave cotton fabric, usually finished to create a luster and a soft hand. Common end-uses are infants' wear, blouses, and lingerie.
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Nano-technology - Complex technology that involves nano-size materials and combines science such as biology, chemistry and physics and engineering.
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Nanofiber - Refers to fibers that are typically manufactuered through
an electrospinning process, which spins fibers in
diameters ranging from 10nm (nanometers) to several
hundred nanometers, but usually less than 1,000 nm. In
scientific terms, nanofibers are generally considered as
having a diameter of less than one micron. The name
nanofiber comes from the nanometer, which is a scientific
unit of measurement representing a billionth of a meter,
or three to four atoms wide. Current uses for nanofiber
technology is in the fields of medical products, consumer
products, industrial products, and high-tech applications
for aerospace, capacitors, transistors, drug delivery
systems, battery separators, energy storage, filtration, fuel
cells, and information technology.
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Nanometer - This measurement used to describe a nanofiber refers to 1
billionth of a meter, or 1 x 10-8 centimeter. 150,000 strands
of a nanofiber can fit across a human hair.
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Nap - A fuzzy, fur-like feel created when fiber ends extend from the basic fabric structure to the fabric surface. The fabric can be napped on either one or both sides.
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Napping - The raising of fibers on the face of the goods by means of
teasels or rollers covered with card clothing (steel wires) that
are about one inch in height. Action by either method raises
the protruding fibers and causes the finished fabric to
provide greater warmth to the wearer, makes the cloth more
compact, causes the fabric to become softer in hand or
smoother in feel, increases durability and covers the minute
areas between the interlacings or the warp and the filling.
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National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) - Designed to represent the entire spectrum of the textile sector, from fibers to finished products, from machinery manufacturers to power suppliers. NCTO’s goal is to create coalitions to advance the interests of textile sector, with all segments of the textile sector having a vote and a say in determining NCTO policy.
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National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) - NIST is a non-regulatory federal agency within the U.S. Commerce Department’s Technology Administration.
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Natural Dyes - Dyes that are made from mineral, vegetable (plant) or animal; otherwise obtained from natural sources. The most common types include Indigo, Cochineal, Lac, Logwood, Madder, Munjeet, Catechu, Brazilwood, Osage Orange, Fustic, Weld, Tannin, and Quercitron.
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Natural Enzymes - Biomolecules created freely in nature that spark chemical reactions. Whether they occur naturally in a dye or are added to a solution, they allow the dye to strongly bind to a mordanted fiber.
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Natural Vegetable Fibers - These are normally comprised of cellulose and include the following: Bamboo, Coir, Cotton, Flax, Hemp, Jute, Kenaf, Linen, Manila, Pina, Raffia, Ramie, and Sisal.
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Net - An open mesh fabric of rayon, nylon, cotton, or silk; made in
a variety of geometric-shaped meshes of different sizes and
weights, matched to various end-uses. The net is made by
knotting the intersections of thread or cord to form the
mesh.
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Net Negative Emissions - This is the process of greenhouse gas removal from the
atmosphere through negative emissions. This involves more
greenhouse gases having been removed from the atmosphere
than are added. This can be done by using forests to absorb
carbon dioxide, for example. It is hoped that negative
emissions technologies will be innovated at scale.
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Net-Zero Emissions - Net-zero emissions is the goal of achieving a balance between
greenhouse gas emissions produced and those removed from
the atmosphere. To avoid a climate disaster greenhouse gas
emission needs to be kept as low as possible.
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Nettle - A sustainable and organic fiber derived from a coarse, wild herb. It is naturally moth-repellant.
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Ninon - A lightweight, plain weave, made of silk or manufactured fibers, with an open mesh-like appearance. Since the fabric is made with high twist filament yarns, it has a crisp hand. End uses include eveningwear and curtains.
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Non-Tariff Barriers (NTB) - Additional taxes, customs valuations, border delays, or certifications.
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Non-Vessel Operating Common Carriers (NVOCC) - These book space on steamships in large quantities at lower rates and sell space to shippers in smaller amounts.
They consolidate small shipments into container loads that move under one bill of lading, and more favorable rates are passed on to the shipper. Services typically offered by
NVOCC’s, in addition to customary services provided by freight forwarders, are consolidation of freight and financial liability for goods due to loss or damage during transport.
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Nonwoven Fabric - A textile structure held together by interlocking of fibers in a
random web, accomplished by mechanical, chemical,
thermal or solvent means. Generally, crimped fibers that
range in length from 0.75 to 4.5 inches are used.
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Normal Trade Rate (NTR) - Products from countries that have been given NTR are subject to the same tariffs when they enter the United States. When the United States lowers, eliminates, or changes tariff rates, that change is applied equally to all NTR countries. Under NTR, both parties agree not to extend to any third party nation any trade preferences that are more favorable than those available under the agreement unless they simultaneously make the same provisions available to each other. Although NTR is a reciprocal agreement, it must be negotiated separately with each country.
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North American Agreement on Labor Cooperation (NAALC) - NAALC is a supplemental agreement to the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) signed by the United States, Mexico and Canada, which entered into force on January 1, 1994. The objectives of the NAALC are, among other things, to improve working conditions and living standards, to promote a set of guiding labor principles, and to encourage cooperation to promote innovation and rising levels of productivity and quality.
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North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) - NAFTA was formed on January 1, 1994 with the aim to create free trade among the United States, Canada, and Mexico. Under NAFTA, all non-tariff barriers to trade between the United States and Mexico were eliminated. In addition, many tariffs were eliminated immediately, with others being phased out over periods of 5 to 15 years.
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North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) - A trilateral trade bloc between the United States, Canada, and Mexico. The agreement was signed in 1992 by the leaders of these countries and came into effect in 1994.
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North American Industry Classification System (NAICS) - Intended to coordinate industry definitions for tracking between NAFTA nations of Canada, Mexico, and the U.S., under Code 315 for manufacturing.
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Novelty Yarn - A yarn that is intentionally produced to have a special or unique effect. These effects can be produced by twisting together uneven single yarns, by using yarns that contain irregularities, or by twisting yarns that contain a color variance. A slubbed yarn is an example of a novelty yarn.
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Nylon - Produced in 1938, the first completely synthetic fiber
developed. Known for its high strength and excellent
resilience, nylon has superior abrasion resistance and high
flexibility. A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming
substance is a long chain synthetic polyamide.
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Nytril - A manufactured fiber, most often used in sweaters or pile fabrics, where little or no pressing is recommended, as the fiber has a low softening or melting point. However, it has also been successfully used in blends with wool for the purpose of minimizing shrinkage and improving the shape retention in garments.
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Ocean Bill of Lading - A bill of lading (B/L) indicating that the exporter consigns a shipment to an international carrier for transportation to a specified foreign market. Unlike an inland B/L, the Ocean Bill of Lading also serves as a collection document. If it is a “straight” B/L, the foreign buyer can obtain the shipment from the carrier by simply showing proof of identity. If a “negotiable” B/L is used, the buyer must first pay for the goods, post a bond, or meet other conditions agreeable to the seller.
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Ocean Transportation Intermediary (OTI) - An OTI is either an ocean freight forwarder or a non-vessel operating common carrier (NVOCC). An ocean freight forwarder is an individual or company in the United States dispatching shipments from the United States via common carriers (or otherwise arranges space for those shipments on behalf of shippers). Ocean freight forwarders also prepare and process the documentation and perform related activities pertaining to those shipments.
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Ochre - Any of several earthy mineral oxides of iron occurring in yellow, brown, or red and used as pigments. See also "Mineral Dyes".
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Off-pressing - Pressing done after the garment is completely sewn.
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Office of Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA) - A U.S. Government information resource for individuals or companies interested in exporting U.S. made textile and apparel products. Includes information about overseas markets, trade shows, textile-related legislation and international agreements, federal and state export programs and data.
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Olefin (polyolefin/polypropylene) - A manufactured fiber characterized by its light weight, high
strength, and abrasion resistance. Olefin is also good at
transporting moisture, creating a wicking action. End-uses
include activewear apparel, rope, indoor-outdoor carpets,
lawn furniture, and upholstery.
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On Board Bill of Lading - A bill of lading in which a carrier certifies that goods have been placed on board a certain vessel.
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Open Account - A trade arrangement in which goods are shipped to a foreign buyer without guarantee of payment. The obvious risk this method poses to the supplier makes it essential that the buyer’s integrity be unquestionable.
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Open Insurance Policy - A marine insurance policy that applies to all shipments made by an exporter over a period of time rather than to one shipment only.
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Open Skies Pact - An agreement between the EU and the United States meant to liberalize the transatlantic air market. The pact would provide for a range of measures affecting areas from airline ownership rules to market access for carriers on both sides of the Atlantic.
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Open-shoulder construction - A method used on better coats that is characterized by
hand-sewn lining shoulder seams.
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Order Bill of Lading - A negotiable bill of lading made out to the order of the shipper.
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Organdy - A stiffened, sheer, lightweight plain weave fabric, with a medium to high yarn count. End-uses include blouses, dresses, and curtains/draperies.
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Organic - Products that are grown or raised without synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, or hormones.
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Organic Cotton - Cotton that is grown without pesticides from plants that are not genetically modified using crop rotation and biological pest control instead of pesticides and artificial fertilizers.
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Organic Cotton Exchange - A charitable organization committed to expanding organic agriculture, with a specific focus on increasing the production and use of organically grown fibers such as cotton. To support this goal, they bring together brands and retailers with their business partners, farmers and key shareholders to learn about the social and environmental benefits of organic agriculture and to develop new business models and tools that support greater use of organic inputs. In addition, they raise consumer awareness about the value of organic farming and the availability of products containing organic cotton.
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Organic Linen - An extremely durable sustainable fiber that is made from the flax plant and grown without herbicides or pesticides.
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Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) - The OECD produces internationally agreed upon instruments, decisions and recommendations to promote fair rules in areas where multilateral agreement is necessary for individual countries to make progress in a global economy. The OECD group’s 30 member countries in a unique forum to discuss, develop, and refine economic and social policies.
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Organza - A crisp, sheer, lightweight plain weave fabric, with a medium
to high yarn count, made of silk, rayon, nylon, or polyester.
The fabric is used primarily in evening and wedding apparel
for women.
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Osage Orange - A large shrub native to central and southeastern United States, The roots and inner bark produce colors ranging from bright yellows to khaki green. See also "Natural Dyes".
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Osnaburg - A tough medium to heavyweight coarsely woven plain weave
fabric, usually made of a cotton or cotton/poly blend. Lower
grades of the unfinished fabric are used for such industrial
purposes as bags, sacks, pipe coverings. Higher grades of
finished osnaburg can be found in mattress ticking,
slipcovers, workwear, and apparel.
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Ottoman - A tightly woven plain weave ribbed fabric with a hard slightly lustered surface. The ribbed effect is created by weaving a finer silk or manufactured warp yarn with a heavier filler yarn, usually made of cotton, wool, or waste yarn. In the construction, the heavier filler yarn is completely covered by the warp yarn, thus creating the ribbed effect. End uses for this fabric include coats, suits, dresses, upholstery, and draperies.
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Outseam - The distance from the bottom of the trouser leg to the top of
the pant at the waist. The measurement is taken along the
outside leg seam that joins the front and back leg panels,
and includes the width of the waistband.
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Outward Processing Arrangements (OPA) - Outward Processing is customs duty relief provided by the customs code, implementing regulations to the customs code.
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Oven - Enclosed heating chamber used by garment manufacturers
to apply heat for the purpose of applying heat to a garment
to set, or cure (bake), a durable press finish on the article.
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Oxford - Soft, somewhat porous, and rather stout cotton shirting
given a silk-like luster finish. Made on small repeat basket
weaves, the fabric soils easily because of the soft, bulky
filling used in the goods. The cloth comes in all white or may
have stripes with small geometric designs between these
stripes.
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Ozone Bleaching - An alternative bleaching process used for finishing in denim manufacturing. It is environmentally acceptable because it does not use harmful chemicals, requires a low quantity of water, and bleaching is achieved in a relatively short amount of time at room temperature.
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Packing List - A list showing the number and kinds of items being shipped, as well as other information needed for transportation purposes.
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Paisley - A tear-drop shaped, fancy printed pattern, used in dresses, blouses, and men's ties.
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Palm Oil - An edible plant oil derived from the fruit of the Arecaceae Elaeis oil palm; it has surpassed soybean oil as the most widely produced vegetable oil in the world. Palm oil production is a basic source of income for many of the world's rural poor in South East Asia, Central and West Africa, and Central America; many social initiatives use profits from palm oil to finance poverty alleviation strategies. This rising demand for palm oil has resulted in tropical forest being cleared to establish new palm plantations. There is growing concern that this will be harmful to the environment in many ways, including significant greenhouse gas emissions, habitat destruction of endangered species, and eventual extinction of such species.
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Panné Velvet - A type of lustrous, lightweight velvet fabric, usually made of silk or a manufactured fiber, in which the pile has been flattened in one direction.
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Parachute Fabric - A compactly woven, lightweight fabric comparable with
airplane cloth. It is made of silk, nylon, rayon, cotton, or
polyester.
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Parcel Post Receipt - The postal authorities’ signed acknowledgement of delivery to receiver of a shipment made by parcel post.
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Paris Agreement - The Paris Agreement is a legally binding international treaty on
climate change that was ratified by 196 parties at COP 21 in
Paris on 12 December 2015. It came into force on 4 November
2016. The Paris Agreement is designed to work on a 5-year
cycle of increasingly ambitious climate actions by member
countries. Under the Paris Agreement enhanced transparency
framework, countries will report transparently on their
progress with climate change mitigation, starting in 2024.
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Patent - A grant made by the U.S. Government that confers upon the creator of a product the sole right to make, use, and sell that product for a set period of time.
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Peau de Soie - A heavy twill weave drapeable satin fabric, made of silk or a manufactured fiber, and used for bridal gowns and eveningwear.
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Percale - A medium weight, plain weave, low to medium count (180 to 250 threads per square inch) cotton-like fabric. End-uses include sheets, blouses, and dresses.
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Perfluorinated chemical-free (PFC-free) - This material, fabric, or membrane is an organofluorine
compound that is free of containing any carbon-fluorine
bonds.
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Performance Bond - A bond issued to the recipient of a contract's contents as a guarantee in case the obligations specified in the contract are not met.
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Performance Fabrics - Fabrics made for a variety of end-use applications, which provide functional qualitites, such as moisture management, UV protection, anti-microbial, thermo-regulation, and wind/water resistance.
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Perils of the Sea - A marine insurance term used to designate heavy weather, stranding, lightning collision, and seawater damage.
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Permanent Press (Durable Press) - Terms used to describe a garment which has been treated to
retain its fresh appearance, crease, and shape throughout
the life of the garment, Permanent press can be a
misleading description, because no finish is completely
permanent. Durable press or crease resistant are the more
accepted terms, and are the ones approved by the Federal
Trade Commission.
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Permeability - A textile characteristic which allows air, water, and water vapor to penetrate and pass through it.
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Perspiration Resistant - Said of fabrics or garments that resist acid or alkaline
perspiration. Laboratory test results should be consulted
prior to selling any fabric or garment as perspiration-
resistant.
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Petrochemicals - Chemicals made from petroleum, coal and/or natural gas. First synthesized in the mid-1800s, scientists created chemicals that could be substituted for natural products. Today, many common household and industrial products are derived from petrochemicals, including plastics, soaps, detergents, drugs, pesticides, aspirin, furniture, and apparel.
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Phase Change Materials - A hydrophilic compound applied to a fiber or fabric which results in superior breathability and a moisture management system within the fabric that helps to maintain a comfortable body temperature when the garment is worn.
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Photochromic Textiles - Fabrics that change color or pattern when exposed to light,
particularly UV light, and are often used in sunglasses and
apparel.
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Phthalates - These chemicals are salts or esters of phthalic acid. The esters are commonly used as plasticizers to soften polyvinyl chloride (PVC), and increase the flexibility, transparency, durability, and longevity of plastic products. However, when ingested, phthalates can cause kidney and liver damage. Due to these health concerns, phthalates are now being phased out of many products in the United States, Canada, and the European Union.
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Pick - A filling yarn that runs crosswise between selveges in woven
goods. The pick intersects with the warp (or lengthwise yarn)
to form a woven cloth.
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Pile Fabric - A fabric in which certain yarns project from a foundation
texture and form a pile on the surface. Pile yarns may be cut
or uncut in the fabric. Corduroy and velveteen are examples
of cut filling pile fabrics.
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Pile Knit - A type of knit construction which utilizes a special yarn or a sliver that is interlooped into a standard knit base. This construction is used in the formation of imitation fur fabrics, in special liners for cold weather apparel such as jackets and coats, and in some floor coverings. While any basic knit stitch may be used for the base of pile knits, the most common is the jersey stitch.
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Pile Weave - A type of decorative weave in which a pile is formed by
additional warp or filling yarns interlaced in such a way that
loops are formed on the surface or face of the fabric. The
loops may be left uncut, or they may be cut to expose yarn
ends and produce cut pile fabric.
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Pill Resistant - The ability of a fabric to hinder or avoid the formation of
small balls of fibers (pills) appearing on the surface of the
fabric.
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Pilling - A tangled ball of fibers that appears on the surface of a
fabric, as a result of wear, abrasion, or continued friction or
rubbing on the surface of the fabric.
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Piña - A fiber made from the leaves of a pineapple and is commonly used in the Philippines. It is sometimes combined with silk or polyester to create a textile fabric. The end fabric is lightweight, easy to care for and has an elegant appearance similar to linen. See also "Natural Vegetable Fibers".
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Piping - A narrow tape used to bind seams, or used for decoration.
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Piqué - A medium-weight fabric, either knit or woven, with raised dobby designs including cords, wales, waffles, or patterns. Woven versions have cords running lengthwise, or in the warp direction. Knitted versions are double-knit fabric constructions, created on multi-feed circular knitting machines.
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Piqué - Medium weight or heavy fabric with raised cords that run in
warp direction.
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PLA Fiber - A polymer fiber made with 100% annually renewable
resources, such as corn. Fabrics, made with PLA, look and feel
like those made from a natural fiber. But they have the
performance qualities of a synthetic. The properties, inherent
in the fiber, remain constant throughout the production cycle,
whether the use is for the raw fiber or finished product.
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Plaid - A pattern consisting of colored bars or stripes which cross
each other at right angles, comparable with a Scottish tartan.
Plaid infers a multi-colored motif of rather large pattern
repeat; the word "check" refers to similar motifs on a small
scale and with fewer colors.
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Plain Edge (Bluff Edge) - A construction in which the edges of the garment are not
stitched.
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Plain Weave - A basic weave, utilizing a simple alternate interlacing of warp
and filling yarns. Each filling yarn passes successfully over
and under each warp yarn, alternating each row. Any type of
yarn made from any type of fiber can be manufactured into a
plain weave fabric.
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Plaited Fabric - In Woven Fabrics: A narrow fabric made by crossing a number of sturdy yarns diagonally, so each strand passes alternatively over or under one or more of the other stands. Typically used in shoe laces and suspenders. In Knitted Fabrics: Also known as bi-ply knitting, this special knit construction uses the addition of a second yarn within the same stitch. The second yarn is generally of a different color or type. During the knitting process the second yarn is placed under the first yarn, so that each yarn can be rolled to a specific side of the fabric. In many cases, one yarn/color appears on the face of the fabric, and the other yarn/contrast color appears on the back.
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Plaited Yarn - A yarn covered by another yarn.
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Plastics - 1) PET (Polyethylene terephthalate) - A form of polyester used
to produce plastic bottles and other products. PET is regarded
as ‘straightforward’ to recycle.
2) HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) - A thermoplastic
polymer produced from the monomer ethylene—widely
recyclable, used to produce plastic bottles, milk jugs, cutting
boards, and piping.
3) PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) - High strength thermoplastic
material widely used in applications such as pipes, medical
devices, wire and cable insulation. PVC is seldom recycled.
4) LDPE (Low-Density Polyethylene) - A thermoplastic polymer
produced from the monomer ethylene, used for applications
such as shrink wrap, packaging, pallet wrap, bags and
coverings. Can be recycled, but can be easily contaminated by
the items it has been used to wrap, contain.
5) PP (Polypropylene) - Thermoplastic ‘addition’ polymer made
from a combination of propylene monomers. Used for
packaging, plastic parts for various industries and for textiles.
It is recyclable.
6) PS (Polystyrene of Styrofoam) - A naturally transparent
thermoplastic that is available as both a solid plastic as well as
in the form of a rigid foam material. It is not commonly
recycled.
7) Miscellaneous Plastics - Polycarbonate, polylactide, acrylic,
acrylonitrile, butadiene styrene, fiberglass, and nylon.
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Pleats - A portion of the fabric folded over, and secured by stitching
or pressing.
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Plied Yarn - A twisting together of two or more single yarns in one
operation.
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Plissé - A lightweight, plain weave, fabric, made from cotton, rayon,
or acetate, and characterized by a puckered striped effect,
usually in the warp direction. The crinkled effect is created
through the application of a caustic soda solution, which
shrinks the fabric in the areas of the fabric where it is
applied. Plissé is similar in appearance to seersucker. End-
uses include dresses, shirtings, pajamas, and bedspreads.
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Ply - Two or more yarns that have been twisted together. An
automobile tire fabric yarn may be 9, 10, or 11 ply.
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Pocket (patch) - A pocket attached to the outside of the garment and
constructed of self-fabric.
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Pocket (quarter) - The angle from the side seam.
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Pocket (rule) - A patch pocket attached on the outseam, halfway betweeen
the hip and the knee of the garment; usually found on
coveralls.
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Pocket (serged) - A pocket formed by joining two pieces of fabric and joining
the edges with safety-stitching.
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Pocket (slash) - A pocket that must be entered through a slash on the
garment. The pocket pouch is suspended from and attached
to the slash.
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Pocket (stitch and turn) - Formed when two pieces of fabric are joined along the edges
and turned so that the raw seam margin is inside of the
finished pocket.
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Pocket (stitched, turned, topstitched) - The same as stitch and turn pocket, except with an added
row of stitching along the folded edges.
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Pocket (swing) - The pocket pouch is suspended from and attached to the
pocket opening.
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Pocket Facing - A piece of shell (outer) material super-imposed on the top of
the pocket material at its opening to conceal the lining.
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Political Risk - In export financing, the risk of loss due to currency inconvertibility, government action preventing entry of goods, expropriation or confiscation, and war.
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Polyester - A manufactured fiber introduced in the early 1950s, and is the
most commonly used manufactured fiber worldwide. The
fiber-forming substance in polyester is any longchain,
synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of an
ester of dihydric
alcohol and terephthalic acid. Polyester has high strength
(although somewhat lower than nylon), excellent resiliency,
has high abrasion resistance, and resists shrinking,
stretching and wrinkles. Polyester's low absorbency allows the
fiber to dry quickly. Polyester fabrics are used in apparel and
home furnishings (i.e. bedspreads, bedsheets, draperies and
curtains). Industrial polyesters are used in ropes, tire
reinforcements, safety belts, and plastics. Polyester fiberfill is
used as stuffing in cushions, comforters, and pillows.
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Polyester - The most commonly used man-made fiber in the world.
Woven polyester fabrics are used in consumer apparel and
home furnishings such as bedspreads, bedsheets, draperies
and curtains. Industrial polyesters are used in ropes, tyre
reinforcements, safety belts, and plastic reinforcements with
high energy absorption. Polyester fiberfills are used as stuffers
in cushion padding, comforters, and pillows.
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Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET or (PETE) - A strong, stiff synthetic fibre and resin and a member of the
polyester family of polymers. PET is spun into fibres for
permanent-press fabrics and blow-molded into disposable
beverage bottles. PET is produced by the polymerization of
ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid. Ethylene glycol is a
colourless liquid obtained from ethylene, and terephthalic acid
is a crystalline solid obtained from xylene. When heated
together under the influence of chemical catalysts, ethylene
glycol and terephthalic acid produce PET in the form of a
molten, viscous mass that can be spun directly to fibres or
solidified for later processing as a plastic.
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Polylactic Acid (PLA) Fiber - A synthetic substance produced from the fermentation of plant sugars derived primarily from corn, which is then made into a fiber. Lightweight, hypoallergenic, and providing more UV protection than polyester, it uses about half the energy required to manufacture other synthetic polymers and is biodegradable. Downside: growing just one acre of corn uses enough water to run a household dishwasher over 30,000 times. See also "Corn Fiber".
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Polymer - A high molecular weight structure, which makes up the substance from which manufactured fibers are produced. The fiber is created by linking together the chain-like molecular units called monomers.
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Polypropylene - Also known as polypropene, is a thermoplastic polymer used in
a wide variety of applications. It is produced via chain-growth
polymerization from the monomer propylene. Polypropylene
belongs to the group of polyolefins and is partially crystalline
and non-polar. Its properties are similar to polyethylene, but it
is slightly harder and more heat-resistant. It is a white,
mechanically rugged material and has a high chemical
resistance. Polypropylene is the second-most widely
produced commodity plastic (after polyethylene).
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Polypropylene (Olefin or Polyolefin) - A manufactured fiber characterized by its light weight, high
strength, and abrasion resistance. Polypropylene is also
good at transporting moisture, creating a wicking action.
End-uses include thermal underwear, activewear apparel,
rope, indoor-outdoor carpets, lawn furniture, and
upholstery.
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Pongee - The most common form is a naturally colored lightweight,
plain weave, silk-like fabric with a slubbed effect. End-uses
include blouses, dresses, etc. Originally made of wild
Chinese silk with a knotty rough weave.
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Ponte di Roma - A fabric made in a double knit construction, usually produced in one color rather than color patterns. This plain fabric has an elastic quality with a slight horizontal line. The fabric looks the same on both sides.
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Poplin - A fabric made using a rib variation of the plain weave. The
construction is characterized by having a slight ridge effect
in one direction, usually the filling. Poplin used to be
associated with casual clothing, but as the "world of work"
has become more relaxed, this fabric has developed into a
staple of men's wardrobes, being used frequently in casual
trousers.
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Positive Buying - This involves favoring ethical products, whether it involves fair trade, cruelty-free products, organic, recycled, re-used, or produced locally.
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Post-Cure - A type of durable press finish in which the finish is applied to
the fabric by the mill, but the garment manufacturer
completes the cure of the finish by applying heat, using an
oven, or press, or both to the completed garment.
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Pre-Cure - A finishing treatment in which the durable press finish is
applied to the fabric and set, or cured, through the use of
heat at the mill, prior to shipment of the fabric to the
garment manufacturer.
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Pre-Shrunk - Fabrics which have received a treatment, which causes
shrinking. Often done on cottons before cutting the fabric
in order to remove the tendency for shrinkage in the finished
garment. The percent of residual shrinkage must be
indicated on the label of the treated goods or garments.
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Precision Agriculture - Also referred to as precision farming, precision agriculture
digitizes farming operations by using sensors to monitor and
analyze crops and livestock. For example, a farmer may use
the data to identify the best time to water and fertilize a crop,
reducing the amount needed to optimize crop growth while
producing the same or, in some instances, increasing its yield.
The goal is to use fewer resources to produce the same or a
better outcome.
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Precision Irrigation - Provides nutrients and water to plants at the optimal time and
in the most ideal locations.
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Preference - (i). A creditor's right to be paid before other creditors of the same debtor.
(ii). A trade preference is the granting of a preferred status to some or all of the goods of
a preferred country, such as lower rates of duty or admissibility of goods in quantities over and above those normally permitted.
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Prepared for Print (PFP) - For polyester, this means that the fabric has been washed, is
free of oil and contains no added softeners.
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Press - 1. A device that uses heat and pressure to remove wrinkles
and creases and smooth fabrics during garment
construction. 2. A device used to press or compress raw
materials. 3. To iron in the home or commercial laundry. 4.
To squeeze liquid out of a fabric through the use of roller
presses.
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Pressure-Sensitive Fabrics - Fabrics that incorporate sensors, which respond to pressure,
making them useful in medical monitoring and interactive
upholstery.
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Prior Authorization (or Approval) Requirements - Requirements that must be satisfied before the shipment leaves the United States. Examples are pre-shipment inspections, some visa requirements, and requirements by some Arab nations that ‘certificates of origin’ must be certified by an Arab diplomatic mission or chamber of commerce in the United States.
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Pro Forma Invoice - An invoice provided by a supplier prior to the shipment of merchandise, informing the buyer of the kinds and quantities of goods to be sent, their value, and important specifications (weight, size, etc.)
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PTFE Fabric - A fabric made from Polytetrafluoroethylene, such as Gore-Tex.
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PTFE-free (polytetrafluoroethylene-free) - A fabric or membrane made of an environmentally safe
compound containing no fluorine chemical compounds.
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Pucker - The uneven surface caused by differential shrinkage in the
two layers of a bonded fabric during processing, dry
cleaning, or washing.
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Purchasing Agent - An agent who purchases goods in his or her own country on behalf of foreign importers such as government agencies and large private concerns.
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Purl Stitch - A basic stitch used in weft knitting, which produces knit fabrics that have the same appearance on both sides. The purl stitch is frequently used in combination with the jersey and rib stitches to produce a knitted fabric design. Sweaters, knitted fabrics for infants and children's wear, knitted fabrics for specialized sportswear, and bulky knit fabrics are commonly made using the purl stitch.
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Qualified Industrial Zone (QIZ) - In 1996 the U.S. Congress established the Qualified Industrial Zones initiative to support the peace process in the Middle East. These zones are industrial parks in Jordan or Israel from which goods can be exported duty free to the United States. In addition, there are currently no U.S. import quotas on clothes or textiles manufactured in Jordan. Additional countries are being considered for inclusion.
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Quercitron - A yellow dye obtained from the bark of the Eastern Black Oak, a forest tree indigenous in North America. The dye is prepared by grinding the bark in mills after it has been freed from its black outer layer and sifting the product to remove the fibrous matter, producing a fine yellow powder. See also "Natural Dyes".
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Quick Dry - The ability of a fabric to dry fast. Typically, cotton is
generally less suited to fast drying as are synthetic fabrics like
nylon or polyester.
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Quick Response Audits (QRA) - CBP’s single-issue audits that have limited objectives, and are conducted within a short time frame, as opposed to a complete evaluation of all Customs activities within a company.
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Quilting - A fabric construction in which a layer of down or fiberfill is placed between two layers of fabric, and then held in place by stitching or sealing in a regular, consistent, all-over pattern on the goods.
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Quota - The quantity of goods of a specific kind that a country permits to be imported.
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Quotation - An offer to sell goods at a stated price and under specific conditions.
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Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) - The object of any RFID system is to carry data in suitable transponders, generally known as tags, and to retrieve data, by machine-readable means, at a suitable time and place to satisfy particular application needs. Data within a tag may provide identification for an item in manufacture, goods in transit, location, the identity of a vehicle, an animal or individual.
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Raffia - A type of palm that is native to tropical regions of Africa and parts of Central and South America. The fiber is used for ropes, sticks, supporting beams and various roof coverings are made out of its fibrous branches and leaves. The membrane on the underside of each individual frond leaf is taken off to create a long thin fiber which can be dyed and used for decorative ribbon for gift-wrapping, or woven as a textile into products ranging from hats to shoes to decorative mats. See also "Natural Vegetable Fibers".
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Ramie - A sustainable bast fiber, similar to flax, taken from the stalk of a plant grown in East Asia and China. It’s three to five times stronger than cotton, extremely absorbent, and dries quickly. It is often mistaken for linen.
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Raschel Knit - A warp knitted fabric in which the resulting knit fabric resembles hand crocheted fabrics, lace fabrics, and nettings. Raschel warp knits contain inlaid connecting yarns in addition to columns of knit stitches.
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Raw Material - A natural unprocessed material used in a manufacturing process; defined as “unfinished goods consumed by a manufacturer in the production of finished goods”.
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Rayon - A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, derived from cotton linters or the wood pulp of pine, spruce, or hemlock trees. Today, various names for rayon fibers are taken from different manufacturing processes. The two most commonly used production methods for rayon are the cuprammonium process and the viscose process. Rayon is soft and absorbent. End-uses for rayon include shirts, dresses, and slacks.
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Reclaimed Fabrics - To return to or bring into an acceptable condition for re-use. These fabrics are basically made from spinning room floor waste that is made into mop yarns or has other low-end industrial uses.
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Recyclable - Any material that can be made into a new product.
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Recycled - Any material from a previous product that has been reprocessed into a new product. Sources for recycling include any reclaimed material that would otherwise be discarded. Recycled production prevents useful materials resources from being wasted and reduces consumption of raw materials.
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Recycled polyester - Polyester that has been manufactured by using previously used polyester items; it can be created from used clothing as well as recycled plastic containers.
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Recycled Polyester (RPET) - Recycled polyester (RPET) is a fabric made from recycled
polyethylene terephthalate (PET), which is a type of plastic.
PET is a synthesis of ethylene glycol and dimethyl
terephthalate, both of which are derived from petroleum. It’s
the same material that virgin polyester fibers are made from,
but the recycled version of the fabric draws its source of PET
mostly from discarded clear plastic water bottles.
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Reed Mark - A fabric defect that occurs in woven fabrics, and identified as a mark or barre, or an irregular spacing between groups of yarns across the width of the fabric. This disturbance is caused by defective or damaged reeds or by a faulty setting of the loom or yarns in the structure of a woven fabric when the fabric is manufactured.
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Reeled Silk - This Silk fiber is the original silk filament obtained through the process of unwinding this filament as it comes out of the cocoon, using reeling appliances. typically, 3-10 silk filaments are reeled together. Reeled silk is strong, has an appreciated Shine, and is soft. A Knit fabric, made from reeled silk is very luxurious. Reeled silk is believed by many to be the king of all types of silk that is manufactured globally.
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Reflective Insulation Technology - All materials emit energy by thermal radiation as a result of their temperature. The amount of energy or radiant heat reflected depends on the surface temperature. The higher the surface temperature is, the greater the reflection will be. Reflective Insulation Technology has been used by NASA since the earliest satellites, and continues to be used today as the primary space suit insulation to protect every astronaut in space from the extreme temperatures of outer space. The technology is effective in temperatures as high as 120 degrees C. (250 degrees F.) to as low as -273 degrees C. (-400 degrees F.)
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Regenerated Agriculture - Regenerative agriculture is focused on improving soil health,
which has deteriorated due to the use of fertilizers and
insecticides. The idea is that healthy soil can be more
productive, store more carbon, and increase biodiversity.
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Remitting Bank - The bank that sends the draft to the overseas bank for collection.
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Renewable Energy - Energy generated from natural resources, including sunlight, wind, rain, tides and geothermal heat, all of which are renewable and easily replenished.
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Repellency - The ability of a fabric to resist such things as wetting and staining by water, stains, soil, etc.
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Representative - An individual or firm that serves as the foreign representative of a domestic supplier and seeks sales abroad for the supplier.
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Reprocess - To process again in order to reuse.
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Reprocessed Wool - Fibers reclaimed from scraps of fabric never previously used.
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Reputation Institute - A private advisory and research firm specializing in corporate reputation management founded in 1997 in New York. They provide knowledge-based consulting services to companies interested in measuring and managing their reputations proactively. Since 2005, they have been responsible for conducting the Global Pulse Study.
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Residual Waste - Residual waste is a significant environmental issue that
requires our attention and understanding. It refers to the waste
that remains after recycling, composting, and other waste
management processes have taken place. It is important to
explore the impact and management of residual waste,
highlighting its importance in creating a sustainable future.
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Resiliency - The ability of a fabric to spring back to its original shape after being twisted, crushed, wrinkled, or distorted in any way.
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Resin - The name commonly applied to synthetic chemical
compounds polymerized on the fabric or yarn to give wash-
and-wear and durable press properties, crush resistance,
dimentional stability, and hand to fabrics.
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Resin-Treated - A finishing process associated with the application of
synthetic chemical compounds to the fabric to provide
wrinkle-resistance, wash-and-wear characteristics, or an
improved hand.
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Revocable Letter of Credit - A letter of credit that can be canceled or altered by the drawee (buyer) after it has been issued by the drawee’s bank.
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Rib Knit - A basic stitch used in weft knitting in which the knitting machines require two sets of needles operating at right angles to each other. Rib knits have a very high degree of elasticity in the crosswise direction. This knitted fabric is used for complete garments and for such specialized uses as sleeve bands, neck bands, sweater waistbands, and special types of trims for use with other knit or woven fabrics. Lightweight sweaters in rib knits provide a close, body-hugging fit.
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Rib Weave - One of the plain weave variations, which is formed by using: 1) heavy yarns in the warp or filling direction, or 2) a substantially higher number of yarns per inch in one direction than in the other, or 3) several yarns grouped together as one. Rib fabrics are all characterized by having a slight ridge effect in one direction, usually the filling. Such fabrics may have problems with yarn slippage, abrasion resistance, and tear strength. Examples of this construction include broadcloth, poplin, taffeta, faille, shantung, and cord fabric.
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Ribbon - A fillet or narrow woven fabric of varying widths, commonly
one-quarter to three inches, having selvage edges, chiefly or
rayon, silk, or velvet, and used for braiding, decoration,
trimmings, etc.
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Rickrack - Flat braid in a zig-zag formation. Made from several types
if fibers, it is used for many kinds of trimming on apparel.
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Ring Spinning - A system of spinning, using a ring spinning frame that drafts
the roving, twists the yarn, and winds it on the bobbin
continuously and simultaneously on one operation. Modern
ring frames are suitable for spinning all counts up to 150s.
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Ring Spun Cotton - This Cotton yarn is created through a process that twists together the cotton fibers from the seedpod of the cotton plant. The Ring-spun cotton yarn is made by continuously twisting and thinning the fiber strands to create a very fine rope of the cotton fibers. The Ring Spun twisting makes a stronger cotton yarn than conventional cotton yarn, with a significantly softer hand. The number of times the fibers are twisted determines how soft the yarn is.
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Rip-stop Nylon - A lightweight, wind resistant, and water resistant plain weave
fabric. Large rib yarns stop tears without adding excess
weight to active sportswear apparel and outdoor equipment
such as sleeping bags and tents. Cloth used originally for
parachutes and sails, now finding favor in fashion and
accessories.
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Rise - The length of trouser from the top of the waistband at the fly
opening, around the crotch, to the top of the back waistband
at the center.
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RN Number - RN stands for Registered Identification Number. It is a number issued by the Federal Trade Commission to U.S. businesses that manufacture, import, distribute, or
sell products covered by the Textile, Wool, and Fur Acts. Businesses can use this number on product labels in lieu of the company name.
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Rule of Origin - These rules are important in implementing such trade policy instruments as anti-dumping and countervailing duties, origin marking, and safeguard measures. The domestic textile industry pushed for a rule of origin change, shifting the origin designation for apparel from where it is cut, to where it is assembled, thus shifting quota numbers.
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Safeguards - The General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT) permits two forms of multilateral safeguards: (i) a country's right to impose temporary import controls or other trade restrictions to prevent commercial injury to domestic industry, and (ii) the corresponding right of exporters not to be deprived arbitrarily of access to markets.
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Said to Contain - This term is allowed on Bills of Lading with respect to cargo descriptions. Manifests can no longer use this cargo descriptive term under the 24-hour rule, issued in October 2002.
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Sailcloth - Any heavy, plain-weave canvas fabric, usually made of
cotton, linen, polyester, jute, nylon, etc. that is used for sails
and apparel (i.e. bottomweight sportswear).
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Sanforized® - Registered trademark of The Sanforize Company, which is
the most widely recognized method of shrinkage control
used by major textile mills worldwide. The process
maintains residual shrinkage to not exceed 1% in either
direction (according to the U.S. standard wash test CCC-T-
191a), despite repeated washings.
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Saran - The trade name for a number of polymers that share similarities to vinyl. The main advantage of Saran film is a very low permeability to water vapor, flavor and aroma molecules, and oxygen compared to other plastics. The barrier to oxygen prevents food spoilage, and the barrier to flavor and aroma molecules helps food retain its flavor and aroma.
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Saran Fiber - A manufactured fiber which has an excellent resistance to sunlight and weathering, and is used in lawn furniture, upholstery, and carpets.
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Sasawashi - A sustainable fabric that is derived from a blend of Japanese paper and kumazasa herb. Saswashi is a beautiful fabric that has a soft touch similar to cashmere or Egyptian cotton, but is has a dry feel like linen. It does not pill or fuzz, and is twice as absorbent as cotton. It is said to have natural anti-allergen and anti-bacterial properties.
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Sateen Fabric - This cloth is made with a 5-end or an 8-shaft satin weave in warp-face or filling-face effects made from yarns with low luster, such as cotton or other staple length fibers. The fabric has a soft, smooth hand and a gentle, subtle luster. Sateen fabrics are often used for draperies and upholstery.
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Sateen Weave - A variation of the satin weave, produced by floating fill yarns
over warp yarns. The cloth is made with a 5-end or an 8-
shaft satin weave in warp-face or filling-face effects.
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Satin Fabric - A traditional fabric utilizing a satin weave construction to
achieve a lustrous fabric face with a dull back. Satin is a
traditional fabric for evening and wedding garments. Typical
examples of satin weave fabrics include: slipper satin,
crepe-back satin, faille satin, bridal satin, moleskin, and
antique satin.
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Satin Weave - A basic weave, characterized by long floats of yarn on the
face of the fabric. The yarns are interlaced in such a manner
that there is no definite, visible pattern of interlacing and, in
this manner, a smooth and somewhat shiny surface effect is
achieved. The shiny surface effect is further increased
through the use of high luster filament fibers in yarns which
also have a low amount of twist. A true satin weave fabric
always has the warp yarns floating over filling yarns. The
name satin originated in Zaytun, China. Satin cloths were
originally of silk and simulations are now made from acetate,
rayon, and some of the other man-made fibers.
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Saxony - Originally a high grade coating fabric made from Saxony
merino wool raised in Germany.
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Schedule B - Refers to the statistical classification of domestic and foreign commodities exported from the United States. All commodities exported from the United States must be assigned a seven-digit Schedule B number.
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Schiffli Embroidery - Originated in Switzerland, the word, Schiffli, means "boat",
identifiable with the boat-shaped shuttle used in the frame.
The lace effect is made by embroidering the motifs on a net
ground.
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Scope 1 Emissions - Emissions from sources an organization owns or directly
controls, such as fuel emissions from a company’s fleet of
vehicles.
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Scope 2 Emissions - Additional emissions a company causes indirectly via the
energy it purchases and uses. For example, the emissions
caused when generating electricity for a factory.
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Scope 3 Emissions - Emissions that are produced neither by the company (scope 1
emissions) nor assets owned and controlled by them (scope 2
emission), but by those that the company is indirectly
responsible for across its value chain. For example, products
purchased, used, and disposed of by customers.
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Scotchgard® - Registered trademark of the 3M Company for fabric
protector finish that repels against staining from water and
spills.
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Seam (book/booking) - The raw edge hem done on a blindstitch machine, usually
sewn in the side ans back seam outlets, and on the bottom
turn-up.
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Seam (french) - A closure between two pieces of material, made by
stitching, turning, and restitching, so as to conceal all raw
edges.
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Seam (open gorge) - Both the collar and the facing are turned under, basted, and
then the seam is felled (edges folded together) from the
outside.
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Seam (raised) - A seam resulting after two pieces of fabric
have been joined; one piece is folded back,
and a second row of stitching is placed
adjacent to the folded edge.
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Seamless Knitting - A unique process of circular knitting, done on either Santoni or Sangiacomo knitting machines. This circular knitting process essentially produces finished garments with no side seams, which require only minimal sewisng to complete the garment. Seamless knitting can transform yarn into complete garments in a fraction of the time it takes for traditional garment manufacturing, by minimizing the traditional labor-intensive steps of sutting and sewing.
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Seamless Technology - This term can refer to either "seamless knitting" (See Seamless Knitting), or "welding/bonding technology", which uses a bonding agent to attach two pieces of fabric together, and eliminates the need for sewing threads. (See welding.)
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Seat - The circumference of a pant, measured perpendicular to the
fly opening and from the base of the fly.
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Seersucker - A woven fabric which incorporates modification of tension
control. In the production of seersucker, some of the warp
yarns are held under controlled tension at all times during
the weaving, while other warp yarns are in a relaxed state
and tend to pucker when the filling yarns are placed. The
result produces a puckered stripe effect in the fabric.
Seersucker is traditionally made into summer sportswear
such as shirts, trousers, and informal suits.
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Self-goods - When the same material is used as a pocket lining, or in a
waistband, collar and fly construction. Also called shell.
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Self-Healing Fabrics - Developed with materials that can repair themselves after
being punctured or torn.
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Selvage or Selvedge - The thin compressed edge of a woven fabric which runs
parallel to the warp yarns and prevents raveling. It is usually
woven, utilizing tougher yarns and a tighter construction
than the rest of the fabric. Other names for it are listing,
self-edge, raw edge.
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Serge - One of the oldest basic terms in textiles, it now implies any
smooth face cloth made with a two-up and two-down twill
weave, especially pertinent to worsted serge.
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Serging - An overcasting technique done on the cut edge of a fabric to
prevent raveling.
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Shantung - A silk fabric very similar to but heavier than pongee. A
medium-weight, plain weave fabric, characterized by a
ribbed effect, resulting from slubbed yarns used in the warp
or filling direction. End-uses include dresses and suits.
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Shape Memory Fabrics - Fabrics that can return to their original shape after being
deformed, useful in various applications from aerospace to
fashion.
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Sharkskin - A hard-finished, low lustered, medium-weight fabric in a twill-weave construction. It is most commonly found in men's worsted suitings; however, it can also be found in a plain-weave construction of acetate, triacetate, and rayon for women's sportswear.
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Shell - A outer fabric from which the garment is made.
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Shipper’s Export Declaration (SED) - A form required for all shipments by the U.S. Treasury Department and prepared by a shipper, indicating the value, weight, destination, and other basic information about an export shipment.
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Ship’s Manifest - An instrument in writing, signed by the captain of a ship that lists the individual shipments constituting the ships cargo.
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Short Supply - Commodities in ‘short supply’ may be subject to export controls to protect the domestic economy from the excessive drain of scarce materials and to reduce
the serious inflationary impact of satisfying foreign demand. The controls are included in the Export Administration Regulations.
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Shuttle - The boat-like devise on weaving machines, which carries the
filling yarn wound on the bobbin. The shuttle moves from
the shuttle box on one side of the loom, through the shed,
and onto the shuttle box at the other side of the loom.
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Side Opening - An opening created by the facing tacked onto the swing
pockets. It allows the wearer access to his trouser pockets.
Typically found on coveralls.
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Sight Draft (S/D) - A draft that is payable upon presentation to the drawee. Compare Date draft and Time draft.
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Silk - The only natural fiber that comes in a filament form; from
300 to 1,600 yards in length as reeled from the cocoon
produced by the silkworm. Most silk is collected from
cultivated worms; Tussah silk, or wild silk, is a thicker,
shorter fiber produced by worms in their natural habitat. All
silk comes from Asia, primarily China.
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Silk - A natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The best-known type of silk is obtained from cocoons made by the larvae of the mulberry. This process kills the larvae and is heavily criticized by animal rights activists. "Wild silks" are produced by caterpillars other than the mulberry silkworm and cannot be artificially cultivated.
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Singeing - Process of burning off protruding fibers from fabrics to give
the fabric a smooth surface.
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Sisal - A strong bast fiber that originates from the leaves of the Agave plant, which is found in the West Indies, Central America, and Africa. End-uses include cordage and twine.
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Sisal - A cactus plant that yields a stiff fiber traditionally used in making twine and rope. The plant originated in the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico, but has spread to Florida, the Caribbean islands and Brazil, as well as to countries in Africa and Asia. See also "Natural Vegetable Fibers".
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Sizing - The application of a size mixture to warp yarn. The purpose
of this is to make the yarn smoother and stronger to
withstand the strain of weaving, to provide an acceptable
hand in the woven gray goods, and to increase fabric weight.
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Sleeve Length - The sleeves measured from the center of the neckline in the
back to the end of the sleeve or cuff.
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Sleeve Tacking - Stitches which attach the sleeve to the lining along the sleeve
inseams and elbow seams.
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Sleeve Vent - A finished slit or opening in the sleeve.
Vents are usually secured by snaps or buttons at the base of
the cuff.
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Sliver - A continuous bundle of loosely spun assembled untwisted
fibers. These fibers are drawn by drawing frames, and are
eventually twisted into a yarn during the sliver knitting
process. A sliver is made by blending and then carding
together particular fibers that can include different properties
and different lengths and colors. The textile industry uses
sliver knitting techniques to form the sliver, which are picked
up by the knitting needles along with the ground yarns and are
locked into place as the stitch is formed. The performance
options of pile fabrics are endless, and are based on the fibers,
blends, pile heights, densities, finishes and jacquard patterns.
create knitted fabrics with sliver.
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Sliver Knitting - A type of circular knitting that creates high pile fabrics. The
fibers are knitted by the drawing-in the sliver using the special
knitting needles. In sliver knitting, the sliver is fed into the
sliver knitting machine, which is designed to work with the
loose fiber, sliver. The sliver is fed through a series of rollers
and needles that pull and shape the fibers into a continuous
knitted fabric. The resulting fabric has a loose, open texture,
similar to a woven fabric, but with the added stretch and
flexibility of a knit fabric. Sliver knitting creates a wide range
of textile pile products with unique textures and surface
interest, because the loose fibers of the sliver can be
manipulated to create different patterns and designs. Sliver
knitting utilizes sliver made from a wide variety of fibers,
including wool, cotton, silk, and synthetic fibers. The process
allows for creativity in the types of fabrics that can be
developed. In addition, unconventional fibers can be used to
create these unique fabrics, including: recycled materials or
the specialty fibers of mohair or alpaca.
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Slow Fashion - Slow Fashion is the opposite of fast fashion. It advocates the
design, production and purchasing of quality garments that
will last longer; slower production schedules; reduced carbon
footprints; use of sustainable materials. There are multiple
ways for consumers to reject fast fashion, including buying
clothes that are sustainable and made ethically; buying locally
made products buying second hand or vintage garments; and
buying clothes less often to slow the rate of fashion
consumption & waste.
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Smart Textiles - Textiles that can sense and react to changes in the environment, such as changes from mechanical , thermal, chemical, magnetic and other sources.
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SOEX, Inc. - A corporate group that implements recycling of textile merchandise with the used textiles as raw material imput, producing an output which consists of products for insulation and other industrial products.
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Soft Shell - Soft shell fabrics combine the benefits of hard shell fabrics with a breathable, flexible, comfortable fabric. Stretch wovens with a DWR treatment.
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Soil Release Finish - A finish that has the purpose of increasing the absorbency
of a fabric. on durable press blends. The finish allows the
stain to leave the fabric faster, increases the wicking action
for improved comfort, and therefore imparts greater ease in
cleaning. Some soil release finishes also provide resistance
to soiling as well as ease of soil removal.
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Solution-dyed - A type of fiber dyeing in which colored pigments are injected
into the spinning solution prior to the extrusion of the fiber
through the spinneret. Fibers and yarns colored in this manner
are color-fast to most destructive agents. This process uses
no additional water and reduces the pollution in dyeing.
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Sorona® - The latest fiber-grade polymer innovation from DuPont, which
offers a three-part environmental story. Made with renewable
resources instead of petrochemicals, Sorona® requires 40%
less energy to produce than an equal amount of
petrochemical-based nylon. Producing Sorona® reduces CO2
emmissions up to 60% over an equal amount of petroleum-
based nylon. See also "Corn Fiber" and "Polylactic Acid (PLA
Fiber)".
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South Asian Free Trade Agreement (SAFTA) - SAFTA requires the developing countries in South Asia (India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka) to bring their duties down to 20% in the first phase of the two-year period ending in 2007. In the final five-year phase ending 2012, the 20% duty is to be reduced to zero in a series of annual cuts. (The least developing country group in South Asia (Nepal, Bhutan, Bangladesh and Maldives) get an additional three years to reach zero duty, until 2017).
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Southern African Customs Union (SACU) - Established in 1910, SACU is the world’s oldest customs union and an important market for U.S. machinery, vehicles, aircraft, medical instruments, plastics, and other products. Five member countries make up this group: Botswana, Lesotho, Namibia, South Africa, and Swaziland. All five countries are leading beneficiaries of U.S trade preferences under AGOA.
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Soy Cotton - Soy fibers blended with cotton to create a textile that has the benefits of both fabrics and can be colored using low impact dyes. With a very soft hand, it is a popular choice for baby clothes.
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Soy Ink - A non-petroleum based ink made from soybeans; non-toxic and biodegradable; environmentally friendlier than traditional petroleum based ink.
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Soybean Fiber - Also known as “vegetable cashmere”, soybean fiber is a sustainable textile fiber made from the residue of soybeans from tofu production. It is part of an effort to move consumers away from petrochemical textile products and turn waste into useful products. Soybean fiber has superior warmth retention, moisture transmission and bacterial resistance; it is also soft, smooth, and light. With a cashmere-like texture, it has a silky luster and the same moisture absorption as cotton. It is typically used for underwear, socks, scarves, sheets, and yoga/exercise apparel.
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Spacer Fabric - Two separate fabrics faces knitted independently and then connected by a separate spacer yarn. These fabrics can be produced on both circular and flat knitting machines. Spacer fabrics have the properties of good breathability, crush resistance, and a 3D appearance.
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Spandex Fiber - A manufactured elastomeric fiber that can be repeatedly stretched over 500% without breaking, and will still recover to its original length. This fiber is widely used in the manufacturing of garments to create elasticity.
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Special Program Indicator for Merchandise (SPIM) - The SPI is used to indicate shipments of qualifying textiles and apparel fashion samples, which are exempt from quota and visa restrictions, provided certain conditions are met. Furthermore, the SPI only covers merchandise that meets several conditions. (i). Goods must accompany a returning buyer. Mail and cargo shipments are not eligible for treatment as fashion
samples. (ii). Quantities cannot exceed 24 pieces total. (iii). Goods cannot be more than a single article of a particular style or color. (iv). Goods must be purchased at retail.
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SPF (Sun Protection Factor) - SPF measures the effectiveness of sunscreen on the body. the test for SPF is done by using a living organism or body to measure the length of time it takes for the skin to redden without coverage or protection.
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Spinneret - A metal nozzle type device with very fine holes used in the spinning process of manufactured fibers. The spinning solution is forced or extruded through the small holes to form continuous filament fibers. The holes in the spinneret can vary in diameter to produce fibers of various denier.
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Spinning - This final operation in the production of a natural yarn,
consists of of the drawing, twisting, and the winding of the
newly spun yarn onto a device such as a bobbin, spindle,
cop, tube, cheese, etc. In manufactured fibers, the spinning
process is the extrusion of a spinning solution into a
coagulation bath, a heated air chamber, or a cooling area in
order to form a continuous filament or tow.
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Sponging - A pre-shrinkage process which involves the dampening with
a sponge to woolen and worsted fabrics. The process is
accomplished by rolling in moist muslin, or by steaming.
This procedure is performed at the fabric mill prior to cutting
to insure against a contraction of the material in the
garment.
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Spot Exchange - The purchase or sale of foreign exchange for immediate delivery.
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Spot Weave - A woven construction in which patterns are built in at spaced intervals through the use of extra warp and/or extra fill yarns are placed in selected areas. These yarns are woven into the fabric by means of a dobby or Jacquard attachment.
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Spun Yarn - A yarn made by taking a group of short staple fibers, which
have been cut from the longer continuous filament fibers,
and then twisting these short staple fibers together to form a
single yarn, which is then used for weaving or knitting
fabrics.
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Stain Repellent - The ability of a fabric to resist wetting and staining by water.
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Stain Resistance - A fiber or fabric property of resisting spots and stains.
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Standard Industrial Classification (SIC) - A standard numerical code system used by the U.S. government to classify products and services.
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Staple Fibers - Short fibers, typically ranging from 1/2 inch up to 18 inches
long. Wool, cotton, and flax exist only as staple fibers.
Manufactured staple fibers are cut to a specific length from
the continuous filament fiber. Usually the staple fiber is cut
in lengths ranging from 1-1/2 inches to 8 inches long. A
group of staple fibers are twisted together to form a yarn,
which is then woven or knit into fabrics.
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Stay - A piece of fabric used to hold another piece of fabric in
place, or to add strength to a seam or tack.
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Steamship Conference - A group of steamship operators that operate under mutually agreed-upon freight rates.
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Stitch (Backstitch) - Used at the beginning and end of stitching to reinforce and
prevent raveling. Also called backtack or stay-stitch.
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Stitch (Baste) - A stitching which holds the fabric in place until permanent
stitching has been completed.
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Stitch (Blind) - A stich that is not visible on one side of the fabric.
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Stitch (Chain/Class 100) - A stitch formed with one or more needle threads, the
look=ps of which are passed through the material and
through the loops of the preceding threads.
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Stitch (Contrasting) - When the stitching thread contrasts the garment color.
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Stitch (Dbl. Lock or Chain/Class 400 - A stitch formed with two or more groups of threads that
interlace each other. The loops of needle thread are passed
through the material where they are secured by looper
threads; no bobbins used. This stitching ravels in one
direction.
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Stitch (Flat Seam/Class 600) - Multi-needle stitches that provide the elasticity necessary
for knits.
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Stitch (Hand/Class 200) - A stitch formed by hand with one or more needles---one
thread per needle passing in and out of the material.
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Stitch (Lock/Class 300) - A stitch formed with two or more groups of threads that
interface each other. The loops of needle threads are passed
through the material where they are secured by bobbin
threads.
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Stitch (Overedge/Class 500) - A stitch formed with one or more groups of threads at least
one of which passes around the edge of the material.
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Stitch (Safety) - A combination chain-stitch and overedge stitch made
simultaneously on the same sewing machine.
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Stitch (Top) - A second row of stitching close to the edge of a seam, after
two or more pieces of fabric have been sewed together and
turned to bury the raw seam margin side.
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Stitch (Zig-Zag) - A stitch made on a sewing machine in which the needle bar
comes down alternately on the right and left side of an
imaginary center line. Also refers to the type of machine
producing this stitch.
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Storm Shell - Wind proof, wind resistant outerwear.
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Straight Bill of Lading - A nonnegotiable bill of lading in which the goods are consigned directly to a named consignee.
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Stretch Yarns - Continuous filament synthetic yarns that have been altered
through special treatments or modification to give them
elasticity. Techniques include: twisting and untwisting, use
of air jets, stuffer boxes, knife blades, crimping, heat setting,
curling, steaming, or looping. Use of these yarns gives
fabrics a degree of elasticity and comfort.
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Substrate - Fabric on which coatings or other fabrics are applied; a support.
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Super 301 - Process requiring U.S. Trade Representative to prioritize foreign trade barriers and seek their resolution through bilateral consultations.
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Super Light Weight - Term used to describe a fabric used in outerwear, which allows for a minimum pack volume and weight. These lightweight, packable garments offer the most versatile weather protection. Some of these fabrics have a protection layer on the membrane, which provides durability. This means that the garments made from the extra lightweight fabrics need no separate lining.
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Supply Chain Traceability - Supply chain traceability enables companies to identify, track,
and trace a product and its components as it moves along the
supply chain, from raw materials to finished product. This data
plays a vital role in provenance and sustainability.
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Supply Chain Transparency - Supply chain transparency refers to visibility and accessibility
to data at every stage within the supply chain. Supply chain
transparency is the best way to build trust between
companies, their partners, and customers.
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Supply Chain Visibility (SCV) - Supply chain visibility is the ability to track every component
of a product from raw material to the customer. For retail
operations, this extends to tracking goods from suppliers
through to the end customer. As well as improving customer
service, inventory management, and cost controls, supply
chain visibility can show sustainable proficiency against
competitors.
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Surah - A light weight, lustrous twill weave constructed fabric with a silk-like hand. Surah is the fabric of ties, dresses, and furnishings. It is available in silk, polyester, and rayon.
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Sustainability - Sustainability means having the ability to maintain and support
a process continuously. In 1987 the United Nations Brundtland
Commission defined sustainability as “meeting the needs of
the present without compromising the ability of future
generations to meet their own needs”.
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Sustainability Intensification - Increasing productivity on existing agricultural land with
positive environmental and social impacts using innovative
products and processes.
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Sustainable / Eco / Green - Textiles that are produced in ethically responsible ways, or
textile production processes that do not cause harm to the
environment.
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Sustainable Cotton Project - This project focuses on the production and use of cotton. Because it is the most widely grown and chemical-intensive crops in the world, along with being versatile enough for foods and fiber products, it is one of the most widely traded commodities in the world. The production of a basic t-shirt can therefore take a toll on the earth’s air, water, and soil; thus the Sustainable Cotton Project encourages the production and demand for California-grown Cleaner Cotton™.
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Sustainable Development Goals - Developed by the United Nations (UN) the Sustainable
Development Goals (SDGs) are a group of 17 interlinked global
goals designed as a “blueprint to achieve a better and more
sustainable future”. The SDGs have a 2030 deadline for
implementation. They include no poverty, zero hunger, good
health and well-being, quality education, gender equality,
clean water and sanitation, affordable and clean energy,
decent work and economic growth, industry innovation and
infrastructure, reduced inequality, sustainable cities and
communities, responsible production and consumption,
climate action, life below water, life on land, peace and justice,
strong institutions, and partnership to achieve goals.
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Sustainable Fashion - Sustainable Fashion, also called eco-fashion and ethical
fashion, involves the design and manufacturing of clothing,
home furnishings and other textile product in a sustainable
manner, that takes into account any environmental and
socio-economic impacts. The goal is a system that
respects the environment by causing minimal to no damage
and promotes the ethical treatment of workers and social
responsibility.
Sustainable Fashion involves all stages of the product’s life
cycle from design; selection & production of raw materials;
manufacturing; dyeing/finishing; sewing/assembling;
packaging/storing and transportation. It includes the use of
recycled materials and components; reuse of waste; and,
the careful use of natural resources, such as water, land,
soil plants and animals. From a socio-economic
perspective, there is a responsibility to maintain ethical
working conditions for workers in the field, the factory and
the office, including complying with best practice and
applicable codes of conduct.
The consumer also has responsibilities: to stay educated
and maintain awareness of sustainability issues when
making purchases; avoid short-term fads that drive fast
fashion; properly care for and repair clothing to extend its
life; avoid over-washing; recycle, repurpose and donate old
garments. You can also join organizations that promote
sustainability that can be joined.
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Sustainable Forestry Initiative (SFI) - Organized in 1994 by members of the American Forest and Paper Association, the SFI focuses on combining sound business decisions with responsible environmental behavior. The program certifies forests to insure they are being managed in a sustainable manner. With forest certification, an independent organization develops standards of good forest management, and independent auditors issue certificates to forest operations that comply with those standards. This certification verifies that forests are well-managed—as defined by a particular standard—and ensures that certain wood and paper products come from responsibly managed forests.
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Sustainable Material - Any material that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their needs. In so doing, the way that these materials are harvested or used assures that the resource is not depleted or permanently damaged. The resource can therefore continue indefinitely without a significant negative impact on the environment or its inhabitants.
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Synthetic Enzymes - Man-made biomolecules that spark chemical reactions.
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Synthetic Fibers - Manufactured fibers that attempt to improve upon naturally occurring plant and animal fibers. Before synthetic fibers were developed, artificially manufactured fibers were made from cellulose, which is derived from plants. Common synthetic fibers include rayon, acetate, nylon, acrylic and polyester. Specialty synthetic fibers include Lyocell and PLA.
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Taffeta - A lustrous, medium weight, plain weave fabric with a slight
ribbed appearance in the filling (crosswise) direction, and
usually with a sheen on its surface. For formal wear, taffeta
is a favorite choice. It provides a crisp hand, with lots of
body. Silk taffeta gives the ultimate rustle, but other fibers
are also good choices.
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Tannin - A bitter, astringent plant derivative that is commonly used to tan animal hides into leather. Tannins produce different colors, including either blue, blue black, or green to greenish black. See also "Natural Dyes".
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Tape - Fabric sewn to a garment at the front edges, armholes,
shoulder, neck, sideseams, vents, bottoms, gorge seams,
etc. It is usually designed to prevent distortion of a fabric
edge or seam.
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Tapestry - A heavy, often hand-woven, ribbed fabric, featuring an elaborate design depicting a historical or current pictorial display. The weft-faced fabric design is made by using colored filling yarns, only in areas where needed, that are worked back and forth over spun warp yarns, which are visible on the back. End-uses include wall hangings and upholstery.
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Tare Weight - The weight of a container and packing materials without the weight of the goods it contains. Compare Gross Weight.
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Tariff (the rate of duty) - A schedule or system of duties imposed by a government on goods imported.
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Tear Strength - The force necessary to tear a fabric, measured by the force
necessary to start or continue a tear in a fabric. Expressed
in pounds or in grams, the most commonly used method for
determining the tear strength is the Elmendorf tear test
procedure.
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Temperature Regulating Fabrics - These fabrics incorporate materials that help maintain a stable
temperature, useful in activewear and bedding.
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Tenor - The time fixed or allowed for payment, as in "the tenor of a draft."
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Tensile Strength (Breaking Stregth) - The strength shown by a fiber, yarn, or fabric to resist
breaking under pressure. It is the actual number of pounds
of resistance that a fabric will give before the material is
broken on the testing machine.
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Tension Control Weave - A type of decorative weave, characterized by a puckered effect which occurs because the tension in the warp yarns is intentionally varied before the filling yarns are placed in the fabric.
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Tentering - A finishing process in which a fabric is stretched under tension on a frame as part of the manufacturing process. The tentering process will carry the fabric through a heated chamber and hold the fabric goods so that its proper width is set and the fabric dries evenly.
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Terry Cloth - A typical uncut pile weave fabric. This fabric is formed by
using two sets of warp yarns. One set of warp yarns is under
very little tension; when the filling yarns are packed into
place, these loose yarns are pushed backward along with the
filling yarns, and loops are formed. The cloth has uncut
loops on both sides of the fabric. Typical uses include
towels, robes, and apparel.
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Terry Velour - A pile weave cotton fabric with an uncut pile on one side and a cut pile on the reverse side. Terry velour is valued for its soft, luxurious hand. Typical uses include towels, robes, and apparel.
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Textured Yarns - The yarns that result after undegoing the texturizing process, which can create crimping, looping, and otherwise modify the filament yarn for the purpose of increasing cover, abrasion resistance, insulation, warmth resilience, or moisture absorption, and to provide a different surface texture. When filament yarns are texturized, and then woven or knitted into fabrics, the result is that the finished fabric?s properties resemble a fabric that has been made from a spun yarn. Most of today's filament polyester is texturized.
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Texturizing - A process performed on specialized machinery which create bulk, stretch to the yarn, and therefore creates new aesthetics to the finished fabric.
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The Office of U.S. Trade Representative (USTR) - The USTR is the U.S. Government’s chief trade negotiator and the principle U.S. trade advisor to the President. The USTR and the Agency’s staff are responsible for developing and implementing trade policies which promote world growth, and create new opportunities for U.S. businesses and workers.
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Thermal Insulation - The ability of a fabric to retain heat.
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Thermochromic Fabrics - These fabrics change color in response to temperature
variations, used in fashion and safety gear.
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Thermoregulation - The ability to maintain a constant temperature independent of dynamic (changing) environmental conditions.
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Thread Count - The number of ends and picks per inch in a woven cloth; the
number of wales and courses per inch in a knit fabric. See
"Count of Cloth".
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Through Bill of Lading - A single bill of lading converting both the domestic and international carriage of an export shipment. An air waybill, for instance, is essentially a through bill of lading used for air shipments. Ocean shipments, on the other hand, usually require two separate documents; an Inland of Bill of Lading for domestic carriage and an Ocean Bill of Lading for international carriage. Through Bills of Lading are
insufficient for ocean shipments. Compare Air waybill, Inland bill of lading, and Ocean bill of lading.
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Ticking - A tightly woven, very durable fabric, usually made of cotton, and used for covering mattresses, box springs, pillows, and work clothes. The fabric can be made by using a plain, satin, or twill weave construction.
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Ticking - Compactly woven cotton cloth used for containers, covers
for mattresses and pillows, sportswear (hickory stripes),
institution fabric, and work clothes. It is striped cloth,
usually white background with blue or brown stripes in the
motif.
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Time Draft - A draft that matures either a certain number of days after acceptance or a certain number of days after the date of the draft. Compare Date draft and Sight draft.
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Tow - A large bundle of continuous manufactured filament fibers,
such as polyester, as they are extruded from the spinerette,
and before they have been cut into staple fibers.
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Traceability - The ability to trace products and their components back
through each step of the supply chain, all the way to raw
materials.
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Trade Adjustment Assistance (TAA) - The TAA program is a U.S. federal program established under the Trade Act of 1974. Provides aid to workers who lose their jobs or whose hours of work and wages are reduced as a result of increased imports.
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Trade Adjustment Assistance Centers (TAAC) - These centers are operated by different Trade Adjustment Assistance programs.
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Trade and Investment Framework Agreement (TIFA) - This agreement expands trade and investment opportunities between the U.S. and another country.
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Trade Integration Mechanism (TIM) - Allows the International Monetary Fund to provide resources to assist member countries in meeting a balance of payments.
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Trade Negotiations Committee (TNC) - The TNC operates under the authority of the General Council of the Doha Declaration Agenda. It was set up by the Doha Declaration, which in turn assigned it to create subsidiary negotiating bodies to handle individual negotiating subjects.
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Trade Policy Staff Committee (TPSC) - The TPSC gives notice that the Office of the United States Trade Representative (USTR) and the Department of Labor are initiating a review of the impact of the proposed U.S.-Central America Free Trade Agreement (FTA) on United States employment.
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Trade Promotion Authority (TPA) - TPA promotes freer trade by giving other countries confidence that the agreements they negotiate with the United States will not be subject to subsequent renegotiation. This authority would be used to implement trade agreements to encourage trade and investment.
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Trade Reference Verification - Verification of trade reference to determine its duration, credit, terms, balance and manner of payment—a service offered by many credit and business investigative companies.
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Trademark - A trademark is any word, phrase, symbol, design, sound, smell, color, product configuration, group of letters or numbers, or combination of these, adopted and used by a company to identify its products or services, and distinguish them from products and services made, sold, or provided by others.
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Traffic Preference Level (TPL) - North American exports of non-NAFTA apparel and textile goods may qualify for reduced or duty free rates under the TPL mechanism. To qualify for these rates, the product must be cut or knit to shape, and must be sown or assembled in one or more NAFTA countries.
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Tramp Steamer - A ship not operating on regular routes or schedules.
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Trans-Atlantic Business Dialogue (TABD) - A government-business initiative that aims to facilitate closer economic relations between the European Union and the United States by lowering trade and investment barriers that impede competitiveness on both sides of the Atlantic. The U.S. Department of Commerce acts as the lead agency for the U.S. government, and the European Commission acts as the lead for the European Union. The goal of the TABD is to focus governments' attention on issues for which consensus exists
within the transatlantic business community and identify specific actions required from governments to facilitate the movement of goods and services.
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Transaction Statement - A document that delineates the terms and conditions agreed upon between the importer and exporter.
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Transpacific Stabilization Agreement (TSA) - Under the terms of the settlement, the carriers shall refrain from certain practices involving the discussion and agreement on rates and negotiation of service contract terms particularly affecting non-vessel operating common carriers (NVOCCs). These include practices alleged by the NVOCC petitioners of unequal timing of negotiations and unequal application of general rate increases and surcharges.
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Transparency - A transparent object is one that can be seen through, with
nothing hidden. In business the concept of transparency
means openness without hidden practices; ongoing
communications/relationships built on trust with an absence of
hidden agendas; and, public accountability for policies,
products, decisions & actions, including being answerable for
the resulting consequences. Eco-certifications by third-
parties provide verification of transparency & adherence to
applicable standards.
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Transportation Services Index (TSI) - Under the Bureau of Transportation Statistics, TSI is a measure of the month-to-month changes in the output of services provided by the for-hire transportation industries, including railroad, air, truck, and inland waterways transportation, pipeline transportation, and local transit. The TSI is still under development and is considered experimental.
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Transshipping - (i) To transfer goods from one transportation line to another, or from one ship to another, or from one airline to another in order to complete a delivery.
(ii). To ship to one country, and then to re-export to another. (Sometimes the second exporting country may be incorrectly represented as the country of origin).
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Triacetate - A manufactured fiber, which like acetate, is made by modifying cellulose. However, even more acetate groups have been added to create this fiber. Triacetate is less absorbent and less sensitive to high temperatures than acetate. It can be hand or machine washed and tumble dried, with relatively good wrinkle recovery.
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Tricot Knit - A warp knit fabric in which the fabric is formed by
interlooping adjacent parallel yarns. The warp beam holds
thousands of yards of yarns in a parallel arrangement, and
these yarns are fed into the knitting area simultaneously.
Sufficient yarns to produce the final fabric width and length
are on the beam. Tricot knits are frequently used in
women's lingerie items such as slips, bras, panties, and
nightgowns.
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Trim-cut - Tapered and tailored, or a form-fitting garment.
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Trunk - Double the length of a coverall, from the center of the
neckhole at the back to the point of the leg separation on
the seat seam.
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Trust Receipt - Release of merchandise by a bank to a buyer in which the bank retains title to the merchandise. The buyer, who obtains the goods for manufacturing or sales purposes, is obligated to maintain the goods (or the proceeds from their sale) distinct from the remainder of his or her own assets and to hold them ready for repossession by the bank.
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Tulle - A lightweight, extremely fine, machine-made netting, usually with a hexagon shaped mesh effect. End-uses include dance costumes and veils.
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Turning - The reversing of two or more pieces of material that are
seamed together for pressing or topstitching.
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Tweed - A medium to heavy weight, fluffy, woolen, twill weave fabric containing colored slubbed yarns. Common end-uses include coats and suits.
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Twill Weave - A fundamental weave characterized by diagonal lines, usually
at a 45 degree angle. In a warp-faced twill, the warp yarns
produce the diagonal effect. It is one of the three basic
weaves, the others being plain and satin. All weaves, either
simple, elaborate or complex, are derived from these three
weaves. Twill is the most common weave for bottom-weight
uniform fabrics.
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Twist - A term that applies to the number of turns and the direction that two yarns are turned during the manufacturing process. The yarn twist brings the fibers close together and makes them compact. It helps the fibers adhere to one another, increasing yarn strength. The direction and amount of yarn twist helps determine appearance, performance, durability of both yarns and the subsequent fabric or textile product. Single yarns may be twisted to the right (S twist) or to the left (Z twist). Generally, woolen and worsted yarns are S-twist, while cotton and flax yarns are typically Z-twist. Twist is generally expressed as turns per inch (tpi), turns per meter (tpm), or turns per centimeter (tpc).
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U.L. Down - Ultra Light Down is used in women's and men's jackets. the concept is to make the lightest and warmest insulation layer available. U.L. Down jackets weigh less than a tee-shirt, blocks more wind, is warmer than even the heavist fleece jackets, and compress to the size of a water bottle. This outerwear can be used when warmth is critical, minimal weight is paramount, and space is at a premium.
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Ultra-Light Weight - Term used to describe a fabric used in outerwear, which allows for a minimum pack volume and weight. Lightweight packable garments offer the most versatile weather protection. Some of these fabrics have a protective layer on the membrane, which provides durability. This means that the garments made from extra lightweight fabrics need no separate lining.
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UN Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD) - UNCTAD is the focal point within the United Nations for the integrated treatment of trade and development, and the
interrelated issues in the areas of finance, technology, investment and sustainable development. UNCTAD aims at the development-friendly integration of developing countries into the world economy.
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Under-press - To press the underside of a garment section during
manufacturing to open the seams and give it shape.
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United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change - The UNFCCC is the United Nations (UN) Framework
Convention on Climate Change. It sets out a basic legal
framework and principles for international climate change
cooperation between participating nations.
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United Nations Global Compact (UNGC) - The UNGC claims to be the world’s largest corporate
sustainability initiative. Its aim is to mobilize a global
movement of sustainable companies and stakeholders. To
make this happen, it supports businesses with principles on
human rights, labor, environment, and anti-corruption. It also
takes action to advance wider societal goals, such as the UN
Sustainable Development goals.
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Upcycling - Upcycling involves the converting or repurposing of old, worn or
discarded textile products into new products of a higher
value/purpose. Upcycling helps reduce the over 12 million tons of
clothing that is disposed of in landfills each year.
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UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) - The UPF rating indicates how effective a fabric is at blocking out solar ultraviolet radiation from reaching the skin. UPF ratings range from 15 to 50 with higher ratings indicating more effective blocking and therefore better protection for the wearer of a garment. Fabrics that test higher than UPF 50 are rated as UPF50+. UPF testing involves exposing a fabric to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and measuring how much is tranmitted through the sample. Different wave-lengths of radiation in the UVR spectrum have different effects on human skin and this is taken into consideration when calculating the UPF rating. Factors that contribute to the UPF rating of a fabric are:
*Composition of the yarns (cotton, polyester, etc)
*Tightness of the weave or the knit (tighter improves the rating)
*Color (darket colors are generally better)
*Stretch (more stretch lowers the rating)
*Moisture (many fabrics have lower ratings when wet)
*Condition (worn and faded garments may have reduced ratings)
*Finishing (some fabrics are treated with UV absorbing chemicals)
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Uruguay Round - The Uruguay Round was established in 1982 at a ministerial meeting of General Agreements on Tariffs and Trade (GATT) members in Geneva. 123 countries participate in the negotiations that cut tariff rates, reduce technical barriers to trade,
protect intellectual property rights, and establish the new World Trade Organization (WTO).
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UV Degradation - The breaking down of fibers or fabrics when exposed to ultraviolet rays.
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UV Protection (UPF) - Designed for sun protection, these specialty fabrics are
produced for their level of ultraviolet (UV) protection. A novel
weave structure, combined with a high denier count (related
to thread count per inch) may assist in producing sun
protective properties in fabrics.
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Value Added - The difference between the value of goods produced and the cost of producing them – the wages, interest, rent, and profits added to the output by a firm or industry.
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Value Added Tax (VAT) - A sales tax which is generally calculated by foreign countries on the basis of Cost Insurance Freight (CIF) value plus duty.
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Value Chain - A value chain is a progression of activities that a business or
firm performs in order to deliver goods and services of value to
an end customer. The idea for a Value Chain is based on the
process view of organizations, the idea of seeing a
manufacturing (or service) organization as a system, made up
of subsystems each with inputs, transformation processes and
outputs. Inputs, transformation processes, and outputs involve
the acquisition and consumption of resources. How Value
Chain activities are carried out determines costs and affects
the business profits.
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Vegetable Dye - Dyes derived from insects or from the earth, including dyes made from plants and bark, which includes madder root, indigo, milkweed, pomegranate, Osage, cutch and cochineal. These also include natural dyes produced from berries, roots and bark. They are not as colorfast as chrome dyes and produce unusual shades of blue, green and other colors. They contain no synthetic chemicals and, due to their natural ingredients, tend to fade faster than chrome dyes.
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Velcro® - Nylon material made with both a surface of tiny hooks and a
complementary surface of an adhesive pile, used in matching
strips that can be pressed together or pulled apart for easy
fastening and unfastening.
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Velour - A medium weight, closely woven fabric with a thick pile. It
can be made using either a plain weave or a satin weave
construction. It resembles velvet, but has a lower cut pile.
End uses include apparel, upholstery, and drapes.
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Velvet - A medium weight short cut-pile constructed fabric in which
the cut pile stands up very straight in a succession of rows
that stand so close together as to give an even, uniform
surface. It is woven using two sets of warp yarns; the extra
set creates the pile. Velvet, a luxurious fabric, is commonly
made with a filament fiber for high luster and a smooth, soft
hand.
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Velveteen - A filling pile cloth in which the pile is made by cutting an
extra set of filling yarns which weave in a float formation.
These yarns are woven or bound into the back of the
material at intervals by weaving over and under one or more
warp ends.
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Vinyon - A synthetic fiber polymer made from polyvinyl chloride. In some countries other than the United States, vinyon fibers are referred to as polyvinyl chloride fibers and is similar in nature to vinyl. It can bind non-woven fibers and fabrics. It was invented in 1939. See also Synthetic fibers.
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Virgin Wool - New wool that has never been used before, or reclaimed
from any spun, woven, knitted, felted, manufactured or used
products.
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Visa - A signature of formal approval on a document, generally obtained from consulates.
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Viscose - The most common type of rayon. It is produced in much greater quantity than cuprammonium rayon, the other commercial type.
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Voile - A crisp, lightweight, plain weave cotton-like fabric, made
with high twist yarns in a high yarn count construction.
Similar in appearance to organdy and organza. Used in
blouses dresses and curtains.
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Waist - The circumference of a garment normally taken at the top of
the waistband with the garment closed.
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Waistband (one-piece) - A single thickness of fabric that is doubled and stitched to
the top of a pant.
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Waistband (Two-piece) - When two identical pieces of fabric are placed back-to-back
at the top of a pant, raw edges turned inside, and joined
with two widely spaced rows of stitching. the pant body is
inserted betweeen and along one edge.
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Wales - In a knitted fabric, the series of loops that are formed by a single needle, which runs vertically or lengthwise in a knitted fabric.
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Warehouse Receipt - A receipt issued by a warehouse listing goods received for storage.
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Warmth to Weight Ratio - A measurement used to evaluate the effectiveness of an insulated product in relation to weather conditions and the environment. The insulation with the best rating is down. Down provides the best warmth to weight ratio over almost any other insulation material, which is why you will see down garments and sleeping bags as the primary choice for use in almost every high altitude, cold weather expedition.
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Warp - In all woven fabrics, this is the set of yarn running lengthwise
- machine direction - parallel to the selvage and interwoven
with the filling. It is the set of yarns wound together on a
beam for the purpose of weaving or warp knitting.
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Warp Knitting - A type of knitted fabric construction in which the yarns are
formed into stitches in a lengthwise manner. There are two
basic types: weft knits and warp knits. Warp knits are
knitted with intermeshing loops disposed in a lengthwise or
warp direction, while weft knits have their loops intermeshed
in a width-wise or weft direction. Warp knits are generally
less elastic than weft knits. Common examples of warp knits
are tricot knits and raschel knits.
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Wash-and-Wear - Ability of a garment to be washed by hand or in a washing
machine and require little or no ironing. Also referred to as
"easy care".
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Washable - Materials that will not fade or shrink during washing or
laundering. Labels should be read by the consumer to
assure proper results. Do not confuse with "wash-and-
wear".
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Watch Pocket - A small pocket in the garment, typically located just below
the front waistband of men's trousers and used to
accomodate change or a pocket watch.
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Water Repellent - Ability of a fabric to resist penetration by water, under
certain conditions
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Water Repellent - Fabrics that have been treated with a finish which cause them to shed water and resist water penetration, but are still air-permeable. Treatments can include wax coatings, resins, silicones, and fluorine derivatives. Such treatments do not close the pours of the fabric, while waterproof finishes do.
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Water Resistant - Fabric treated chemically to resist water or given a "wax-
coating treatment" to make it repellent. A degree by which
water is able to penetrate a fabric. Not to be confused with
water-repellent. However, the terms are often used
interchangeably.
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Water-Based Products and Finishes - An environmentally-friendly alternative. These products and finishes are nonflammable and odorless. They offer reduced exposure to toxic materials and help reduce environmental pollution. Water-based products are easy to clean and dry faster than other non-water-based products.
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Water-Resistant and Breathable Fabrics - Fabrics that can be engineered to be impermeable to water
while allowing vapor to pass through, commonly used in
outdoor and sports clothing.
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Waterproof - A term applied to fabrics whose pores have been closed, and
therefore, will not allow water or air to pass through them.
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Waterproof / Breathable (WP/BR) - This specialty fabric resists liquid / water from passing
through the fabric, but allows water vapor to pass through,
so that it's comfortable when made into a garment.
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Weaving - The process of forming a fabric on a loom by interlacing the
warp (lengthwise yarns) and the filling (crosswise yarns)
perpendicular to each other. Filling is fed into the goods
from cones, filling bobbins or quills, which carry the filling
yarns through the shed of the loom. Filling may also be
inserted into the material without the use of a shuttle, as in
the case of a shuttleless loom. The three basic weaves are
Plain, Twill, and Satin. All other weaves, no matter how
intricate, employ one or more of these basic weaves in their
composition. Variations on the basic weaves make a variety
of different fabric surfaces and fabric strengths.
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Weft - In woven fabric, the filling yarns that run perpendicular to the warp yarns.
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Weft Knit - A type of knitted fabric in which yarns are formed into stitches in widthwise manner. Common examples of weft knits are circular knits and flat knits.
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Weight of Cloth - There are three ways by which fabric is sold. 1. Ounces per
linear yard: a 14-ounce covert topcoating, a 22-ounce
melton overcoating. 2. Yards to the pound: a 3.60 airplane
cloth, a 4.00 filling sateen. 3. Ounces per square yard: a
3.75 acetate satin, a 6.00 nylon organdy.
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Weld - A weeding plant that has been used as a source for a brilliant yellow dye. It was originally from the Middle East, North Africa, and the Mediterranean area, but has subsequently spread throughout Europe and parts of the United States. Weld is harvested by cutting and binding the flowering stalks together after the flowers are nearly finished blooming. Most of the dye is contained in the seeds. See also "Natural Dyes".
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Welded Shell - The outer layer of a bonded wor welded garment, such as a jacket.
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Welding - There are two basic methods for applying bonding or welded seams. The first method uses an adhesive film, and the application of heat to glue or laminate two substrates together. The second method involves gluing or attaching two fabrics, using ultrasonic technology. The creation and channeling of high frequency vibratory waves cause a rapid buildup of heat in synthetic fabrics to create the bonding.
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Welt - 1. A strip of material seamed to a pocket opening as a
finishing, as well as a strengthening device. 2. A raised or
swelled lap or seam. 3. A covered cord or ornamental strip
sewed on a border or along a seam. 4. In knitting, it is flat-
knitted separately and then joined to the fabric by looping or
hand knitting, as the heel to the stocking. 5. A ribbed piece
of knit goods used in forming the end of a sleeve or sock to
prevent rolling or raveling.
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Welt Lining - Interlining for pocket welts.
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Wharfage - A charge assessed by a pier or dock owner for handling incoming or outgoing cargo.
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Whipcord - A woven fabric with a very steep and compacted twill
appearance on the face of the goods. End-uses for the
fabric include dress woolens, worsteds, or wool blends, and
many types of uniforms.
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White Goods - A very broad term which implies any goods bleached and
finished in the white condition. Some of the cotton white
goods are muslin, cambric, dimity, lawn, longcloth, organdy,
voile, etc.
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White-on-White - Some fabrics, such as men's shirtings or broadcloth, poplin,
madras, etc., are made on a dobby or jacquard loom so the
white motifs will appear on a white background.
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Wholly formed - When used in reference to yarns or thread, ‘wholly formed’ means that all of the production processes, starting with the extrusion of filament, or the spinning of fibers into yarn, took place in a single country. The term also applies to fabrics produced in a single country.
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Wickability - The ability of a fiber or a fabric to disperse moisture and allow it to pass through to the surface of the fabric, so that evaporation can take place.
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Wicking - Dispersing or spreading of moisture or liquid through a given area by capillary action in a material.
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Wigwan - A converted cotton cloth, dyed black, brown or gray, and
given a firm starched, plain calender finish, and used for
interlinings in men's and boys's clothing to give body to the
garment.
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Wind Resistant - The ability of a fabric to act against or oppose the penetration of wind or air, but it is not totally windproof.
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Windproof - The ability of a fabric to be nonpermeable to wind and air.
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Without Reserve - A term indicating that a shipper’s agents or representative is empowered to make definitive decisions and adjustment abroad without the approval of the group or individual represented. Compare Advisory capacity.
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Woof - Comes from the Anglo-Saxon "owef". It is another name for
the warp or warp yarn. Sometimes in advertising textiles,
the word has been used to imply filling yarn, and made to
interchange with the other term, weft.
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Wool - Usually associated with fiber or fabric made from the fleece
of sheep or lamb. However, the term "wool" can also apply
to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of the Cashmere
or Angora goat or the specialty hair fibers of the camel,
alpaca, llama, or vicuna. Commonly used in slacks and
outerwear.
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World Customs Organization (WCO) - The WCO was established in 1952 to aid the national economic wealth and social protection of its members by promoting an honest, transparent, and predictable Customs environment. This permits legitimate international trade to flourish and effective action to be taken against illegal activity.
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World Trade Organization (WTO) - The international organization which resulted from the Uruguay Round of GATT negotiations. The premier international organization seeks to establish global rules of trade between nations. The goal of the WTO is to help trade flow smoothly, freely, fairly and predictably.
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Worsted Fabric - A tightly woven fabric made by using only long staple,
combed wool or wool-blend yarns. Worsted yarn is smooth-
surfaced and spun from evenly combed, long staple fibers.
The fabric has a hard, smooth surface. Gabardine and surge
are examples of worsted fabrics. A common end use is
men's tailored suits.
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Worsted System - The textile process of manufacturing spun yarns from staple
fibers usually over 3 inches in length. The main operations
are carding, combing, drafting, and spinning.
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Woven Fabric - Fabrics composed of two sets of yarns. One set of yarns, the warp, runs along the length of the fabric. The other set of yarns, the fill or weft, is perpendicular to the warp. Woven fabrics are held together by weaving the warp and the fill yarns over and under each other.
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Wrinkle Free - A resistant to wrinkling created through the use of a variety
of finishes and treatments.
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Wrinkle Recovery - Similar to resiliency. It is the ability of a fabric to bounce
back after it has been twisted, wrinkled, or distorted in any
way. Some fabrics are able to eliminate wrinkles because of
their own resilience. Wool is among those, as are thermo-
plastic manufactured fibers and chemically-treated cottons.
Laboratory tests are made to determine the amount or
degree a fabric will recover from wrinkling.
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Yarn - A continuous strand of textile fibers created when a cluster
of individual fibers are twisted together. These long yarns
are used to create fabrics, either by knitting, plaiting, or
weaving.
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Yarn Forward - The rule stating that yarn used to form a fabric must originate in a NAFTA country.
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Yoke (self) - The entire back of a garment is one piece and has a single
yoke superimposed on the outside.
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Yoke (Two-pierce) - Two identical pieces of fabric are joined to a shortened back
piece to produce the total back.
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Yokeless Shirt - The front and backs of a shirt are joined without a yoke
facing.
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Zero Waste - Also known as waste minimization, this is a set of principles
focused on waste prevention that encourages redesigning
resource life cycles so that all products are repurposed (i.e.
“up-cycled”) and/or reused. The goal of the movement is to
avoid sending trash to landfills, incinerators, oceans, or any
other part of the environment. Currently 9% of global plastic is
recycled. In a zero waste system, all materials are reused until
the optimum level of consumption is reached.
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Zipper - The physical parts of the zipper are: scoop teeth, chain,
lock, pull tape, and slider. Zippers used in industrial clothing
are metal or brass. Plastic zippers are used typical apparel
garments. Zippers are used as a closure in pants, skirts, and
dresses.
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Zone User - A corporation, partnership or party that uses a U.S. foreign trade zone for storage, handling, processing, or manufacturing merchandise, whether foreign or domestic.
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Zylon - Developed in the 1980s in the United States, this synthetic
product is used in a number of applications that require very
high strength with excellent thermal stability. Tennis racquets,
Table Tennis blades, various medical applications, and some of
the Martian rovers are some of the more well known instances.
See also "Synthetic Fibers".
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